The backlight fuse is not a fuse but a ferrite bead. The purpose of the ferrite bead is to filter out high frequency noise on the line. When there is high frequency noise, the ferrite bead acts like a resistor and throttles the noise.
When a DC signal is applied, the bead behaves as a near short (usually only in the milliOhm range, depending on the bead).
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This component is typically fails when you forget to disconnect the battery before removing or replacing the LCD connector. To properly test it, you need to check it's resistance with a meter. For all intents and purposes, it should read as a dead short (~0 Ohms).
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This component typically fails when you forget to disconnect the battery before removing or replacing the LCD connector. To properly test it, you need to check it's resistance with a meter. For all intents and purposes, it should read as a dead short (~0 Ohms).
On the mini 2, it is L2200 and it is under the shield. If you have the right tools and experience, it is not a difficult repair. Otherwise, I suggest you find a micro-soldering repair shop to have it done professionally.
The backlight fuse is not a fuse but a ferrite bead. The purpose of the ferrite bead is to filter out high frequency noise on the line. When there is high frequency noise, the ferrite bead acts like a resistor and throttles the noise.
When a DC signal is applied, the bead behaves as a near short (usually only in the milliOhm range, depending on the bead).
This component is typically fails when you forget to disconnect the battery before removing or replacing the LCD connector. To properly test it, you need to check it's resistance with a meter. For all intents and purposes, it should read as a dead short (~0 Ohms).
On the mini 2, it is L2200 and it is under the shield. If you have the right tools and experience, it is not a difficult repair. Otherwise, I suggest you find a micro-soldering repair shop to have it done professionally.