Nintendo 3DS Speaker Assembly Replacement

I used a PH0x50, but it wasn't easy.

The LCD screen I ordered came with all the tools I needed except a pair of tweezers. All in all it was about $14.00 and a little bit of my time.

Does anyone know where I can find the right bumper button for a 3ds? I can't find it on ebay must of damaged it playing smash bros.

Really wish I had read the comments first... How about instead of the warning saying to press down hardly and go slow, you say to use the correct screwdriver size like others mentioned in the comments. I not only stripped multiple screws, even after putting a glove on for more pressure, I bent my screwdriver from pressing down so hard. Granted it's a cheap jeweler's kit screwdriver, but it still would've been nice to not have that problem and be informed of the right size in the first place.

Got my tools one day after ordering, as I live a couple hours away from the supplier, Will post again when i try guide.

I tried doing this with a #00 Philips but it just didn't turn

Hello there, I need some assistance I have done a full housing replacement I have everything working except the 3d slider . The 3D option is always on can someone let me know which flex it is or what I am forgetting . Thanks guys !

Had to give up at this point. Tried using the ifixit #00 phillips screwdriver to take out two screws and ended up stripping them.

Stuck at the same spot, those screws are in there really tight.

Ruined my screws because of incorrect head, thanks!

I had so much trouble with these screws, I gave up. Unfortunately, I can't accept failure so tried again. I figured out if you turn it right before you loosen it worked. Maybe it was just me, but I turned it right then kept pressure as I turned to loosen. I was surprised I hadn't stripped any screws out.

I used a #00 Philips 1/8" bit with no problem; however, the narrow diameter of the counter sunk hole can inhibit making secure contact with the screw head. You can be using the right bit (#00) but if the diameter of the bit shaft is too big you won't get proper contact.

I found this to be an excellent guide. Thanks

If anyone can point me to a link to purchase the 9 screws, let me know. Contacted Nintendo and they said I'd have to send it in. Email me at xavierfflores@gmail.com

Unscrewed the nine 6.3 mm screws using the J000 bit from the iFixit 54 bit driver kit without much effort & without stripping the screw heads. Just gotta really position the bit correctly on the screw to have a proper fitting & not strip the screw heads.

Push down hard and turn counter-clockwise, or push down and rotate 3DS counter-clockwise until screw is loose.

Had the exact same problem, even tried the #000 screw driver too. Stripped the screws due to how tightly they are screwed in there and how easy they strip. I am now unsure what to do from here or if all I can do is give up.

I second the one who suggested the Whia 273 PH000x40 screwdriver. I had a terrible time unscrewing these screws, and almost stripped them using a cheaper #000 screwdriver. Also tried a 3/16" flathead and destroyed the screwdriver. I bought the Whia and glad I did. It fit perfectly and did not slip at all. DEFINITELY recommend purchasing this high-quality screwdriver. Cost about $10 but well worth it to avoid the hassle.

The best way I found that works quite well, if you find a screwdriver or bit that is good enough: hold the screwdriver or bit with tons of pressure, and rotate the 3DS clockwise! It will come out in 5-6 rotations, you can do this step in about 10 minutes this way (put down a cloth first, don't scratch the front!)

I HAVE A WAY TO GET OUT THE STRIPED SCREW. Like you, I had screwed up and tried everything to get the screw out. Do NOT try the glue in that tiny hole, you will get the screw glued permanently in there. The rubber band doesn't work in that tight space either. As desperate as I was, I was trying anything from nail polish to cramming the screw driver in as hard as I possible could. Until I realized that I had a drill. Yes, with the smallest head, I drilled into the screw a little bit, messed with the part I was trying to get out, drilled a little more, messed around, and then finally on my last attempt, I had successfully drilled off the top of the screw rendering the part free. It doesn't matter which drill you use as long as you can fit the head into the hole. Then drill forward like you are trying to drill a hole through wood. Now the only problem is that the remainder of the screw will be stuck in its place. All you really have to do is get a set of pliers and twist that puppy out. And there you go!

Most likely though, if you have all the other screws out and only have one striped screw, the part should just pop off and you wouldn't have to drill the entire head off the screw.

Got a brand new #00 screw drive and it striped the first time used it. So now I'm using eyeglass repair kit screw driver and it lasts longer that the one I got of of eBay.

And I tried all of those tactics that people have been giving and none of them are working.

The wiha 273 PH #000×40 unsrews it easily! It has a magnet on it!

When reassembling verify that the circle pad control is oriented right. I had to go back in after completion when I realized it wasn't centered.

I would not disable the back side all the way because it could really mess up your 3DS.

The retaining flap on mine broke off, is there any way to fix it?

Don't do this step! it is not necessary. you can skip steps 8 through 20

Skip steps 8 through 20. It will save a lot of time. Thanks S Maduras for the warning.

Be sure to fit the motherboard inbetween the joystick and volume slider in properly (you can double check by seeing if the volume slider on the outside goes up and down smoothly). When I closed it the first time it was stuck on full volume so I needed to go back in and readjust!

Do yourself a favor and DON'T remove the 2.5 mm silver screw (yellow circle). It just holds in a little plastic bit under the volume control. The board comes out just fine with the screw still in. If you remove it, the plastic bit will fall out at random when you turn over the case.

First time I took mine apart, I noticed something fall out later, tracked it down and then puzzled over what it was and where it came from.

There is some adhesive where the AC adapter plugs in so I recommend watching out for that

Reinserting this ribbon cable is quite difficult. I found opening the case so that it sits upright at a 90 degree angle helps. The first two times I tried reassembling the top display did not work. Turned out that I was not inserting the ribbon cable in enough. I used tweezers to push this in by gently grabbing the ribbon cable. I was continually inspecting the cable for damage but apparently did not damage it. If anyone has a better idea on how to reinsert this cable I think others would greatly appreciate it.

Putting the cable back in is the hardest part out of all of this (if you can get past the screws near the beginning). If you have a friend that you trust very much and is very gentle, another pair of hands here really will help. If you're without a friend, make sure to use some flat, angled precision tweezers to push the ribbon in with one hand (pointed tweezers will do in a pinch but you'll have to be careful - I put a small dent in the ribbon and thought I'd broke it), and then use a spudge or something in the other to push the flap down.

Also worth noting is that the ribbon for the top screen also handles the 3D - if you complete the guide and find you are unable to turn the 3D effect off, you didn't insert the ribbon enough, as I had the problem and re-inserting the ribbon fully fixed it.

Careful when reassembling -- watch the position of the black wifi antenna wire! I got mine most of the way back together and noticed it wouldn't close all the way. This wire had come out of the little posts holding it in place and was wedged between the screen and motherboard. Now I have to take it all apart again to fix this.

Also if you're taking the board out of a working unit to get at the CLK signal to backup the NAND chip ("hardmod"), you don't need to remove the difficult ribbon cable in this step, or the other two wide ones at the top right from earlier. Leave them attached and swing the board out. It won't rotate a full 180 degrees to sit flat outside the unit, but you can open the screen 90 degrees to prop the rest up while having the board out on your table.

I recommend not taking it off in the first place, as reattaching it is awfully difficult. You can easily clean out your abxy buttons with it still attached

Make sure when putting the motherboard back onto the bottom part of the casing that the antenna wire is where it should be - the first time I put this back together the wire got loose and was smooshed in between the casing and the Y and Power buttons, causing them to be stiff/not work. Using the spudge should help in pushing the wire back into the slots along the inside of the case.

Maybe a dumb question, but how would I go about reattaching the top screen if it's attached to the 3ds by an adhesive? If I have to use more adhesive to put it back on, what would be the recommended kind to do so?

I have the same question/concern that "jgonsoski" has. Is the adhesive on the front panel still usable after it's pried off the display bezel? Or does it have to be removed? If so, what adhesive can be used or is suitable to adhere back the front panel to the display bezel?

What if I need a new one

When reassembling you may find it difficult to get the bar back into the hole in the hinge. A couple of tips:

* Reassemble it with the clamshell pieces in a ‘closed’ position (same position that you took it apart).

* The pin/bar may have rotated slightly during disassembly (mine did). It only goes into the hole one way - the hole is actually a slot. If the alignment is off even a couple of degrees it won’t pop back in. If this happens simply lift the edge with the bar up out of the hinge and push the bar so it pops back out (like it was going into the hinge). The take a pair of pliers and gently rotate the bar to fix the alignment, pop the bar back to the ‘unhinged/open’ position, then reassemble.

You may want to use small pieces of scotch tape to reinforce each individual ribbon cable before proceeding, being careful not to cover the gold contacts. The cables can be very brittle and when rolled up tightly they can crack and break like a dry leaf. The tape can be left on the cables after removal and installation.