Inleiding
The speakers and 3D adjustment knob can all be found on the same ribbon cable. Replacing any of them requires first removing the entire speaker assembly.
Gereedschap
Onderdelen
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Unscrew the four Phillips #00 screws along the top of the back cover.
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Grab the top edge of the back cover with your opposite hand so that the cover does not fall back into place.
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Pull the back cover up and away from the rest of the device to remove it.
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Insert a plastic opening tool into the notch in the lower case above the battery.
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Pry the battery up with the plastic opening tool.
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Grab the top edge of the battery and lift it out of the lower case.
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Remove the nine 6.3 mm black Phillips screws from the lower case.
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Remove the 2.4 mm silver Phillips screw above the game cartridge slot.
Stuck at the same spot, those screws are in there really tight.
I had so much trouble with these screws, I gave up. Unfortunately, I can't accept failure so tried again. I figured out if you turn it right before you loosen it worked. Maybe it was just me, but I turned it right then kept pressure as I turned to loosen. I was surprised I hadn't stripped any screws out.
Does anyone have any idea of how to remove these screws. I've pretty badly stripped the screws and I've gone to 20+ pages trying to figure this. I'm considering just prying the !@#$ thing.
use a dremil and make it a flat head
ruined my screws here too...what the !@#$ nintendo?
trying to survive a nuclear meltdown inside the !@#$ thing
More like trying to subtly enforce planned obsolescence by not allowing you to make repairs to your device.
Ullyssys -
I used a #00 Philips 1/8" bit with no problem; however, the narrow diameter of the counter sunk hole can inhibit making secure contact with the screw head. You can be using the right bit (#00) but if the diameter of the bit shaft is too big you won't get proper contact.
I found this to be an excellent guide. Thanks
If anyone can point me to a link to purchase the 9 screws, let me know. Contacted Nintendo and they said I'd have to send it in. Email me at xavierfflores@gmail.com
The screws didn't strip but the philips screw driver did? @__@
These are rough either way.
I used a "Whia 273 - PH000x40" screwdriver and held it firmly pushing the palm of my hand on the yellow end of the screwdriver and rocked the screw slightly (counter clockwise and clockwise) until it started to move. Then, without letting up on the pressure I carefully backed it out. The screwdriver is excellent because it is hardened (unlike some cheapo's out there) and the very tip is blunt not sharp. If the tip is too sharp, the point will bottom out in the screw and the sides that do all the work, won't be able to fully contact the inside of the screw. This screwdriver fits so well that the screws actually stick to it once they are removed. If the screwdriver moves AT ALL when you initially try it in the screw, STOP and find a better one. Also, start with the screws in the center, somehow they seem a little easier until you get the feel for it.
Paul -
Had the exact same problem, even tried the #000 screw driver too. Stripped the screws due to how tightly they are screwed in there and how easy they strip. I am now unsure what to do from here or if all I can do is give up.
I second the one who suggested the Whia 273 PH000x40 screwdriver. I had a terrible time unscrewing these screws, and almost stripped them using a cheaper #000 screwdriver. Also tried a 3/16" flathead and destroyed the screwdriver. I bought the Whia and glad I did. It fit perfectly and did not slip at all. DEFINITELY recommend purchasing this high-quality screwdriver. Cost about $10 but well worth it to avoid the hassle.
The best way I found that works quite well, if you find a screwdriver or bit that is good enough: hold the screwdriver or bit with tons of pressure, and rotate the 3DS clockwise! It will come out in 5-6 rotations, you can do this step in about 10 minutes this way (put down a cloth first, don't scratch the front!)
I HAVE A WAY TO GET OUT THE STRIPED SCREW. Like you, I had screwed up and tried everything to get the screw out. Do NOT try the glue in that tiny hole, you will get the screw glued permanently in there. The rubber band doesn't work in that tight space either. As desperate as I was, I was trying anything from nail polish to cramming the screw driver in as hard as I possible could. Until I realized that I had a drill. Yes, with the smallest head, I drilled into the screw a little bit, messed with the part I was trying to get out, drilled a little more, messed around, and then finally on my last attempt, I had successfully drilled off the top of the screw rendering the part free. It doesn't matter which drill you use as long as you can fit the head into the hole. Then drill forward like you are trying to drill a hole through wood. Now the only problem is that the remainder of the screw will be stuck in its place. All you really have to do is get a set of pliers and twist that puppy out. And there you go!
Got a brand new #00 screw drive and it striped the first time used it. So now I'm using eyeglass repair kit screw driver and it lasts longer that the one I got of of eBay.
And I tried all of those tactics that people have been giving and none of them are working.
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Lift the bottom edge of the lower case off the rest of the 3DS.
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Use a plastic opening tool to pry the shoulder button ribbon cables off their sockets on the motherboard.
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Remove the lower case from the device.
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Remove the two 7.7 mm Phillips screws securing the back of the Circle Pad to the motherboard.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the back of the Circle Pad off the motherboard.
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Lift the Circle Pad joystick off the motherboard and lay it on its back so that the ribbon cable connector is accessible.
When reassembling verify that the circle pad control is oriented right. I had to go back in after completion when I realized it wasn't centered.
I would not disable the back side all the way because it could really mess up your 3DS.
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Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the Circle Pad ribbon cable ZIF socket.
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Lift the Circle Pad joystick off the motherboard.
Can you replace a zif socket? The little metal pieces on mine broke off...
YOUR &&^&@@ HAHAHAAHA, no you cant you would have to purchase a new motherboard i feek you bro happened in my first time
The retaining flap on mine broke off, is there any way to fix it?
Skip steps 8 through 20. It will save a lot of time. Thanks S Maduras for the warning.
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Use a spudger or screwdriver to lift the pads up and remove them from the device.
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Remove the two 4.5 mm Phillips screws securing the SD board to the motherboard.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the SD board ribbon cable connector off its socket on the motherboard.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger between the SD board and the motherboard.
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Run the spudger along the sides of the SD board to free it from the adhesive pad holding it in place.
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Once completely freed, lift the SD board straight off the motherboard.
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Slide the flat end of a spudger under the corner of the Wi-Fi board, and lift it away from the motherboard.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the Wi-Fi antenna cable connector off its socket on the Wi-Fi board.
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Remove the Wi-Fi board from the device.
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Grasp the microphone ribbon cable near the microphone with a pair of tweezers.
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Pull the microphone straight up out of the upper case.
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Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the speaker assembly ribbon cable ZIF socket.
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Disconnect the speaker assembly ribbon cable with a pair of tweezers.
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Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the camera ribbon cable ZIF socket.
Be sure to fit the motherboard inbetween the joystick and volume slider in properly (you can double check by seeing if the volume slider on the outside goes up and down smoothly). When I closed it the first time it was stuck on full volume so I needed to go back in and readjust!
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Remove seven Phillips screws securing the motherboard to the upper case:
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Four 2.5 mm gold screws
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Two 3.5 mm black screws
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One 2.5 mm silver screw
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Lift the side of the motherboard that sits along the bottom edge of the 3DS.
Do yourself a favor and DON'T remove the 2.5 mm silver screw (yellow circle). It just holds in a little plastic bit under the volume control. The board comes out just fine with the screw still in. If you remove it, the plastic bit will fall out at random when you turn over the case.
First time I took mine apart, I noticed something fall out later, tracked it down and then puzzled over what it was and where it came from.
There is some adhesive where the AC adapter plugs in so I recommend watching out for that
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Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF socket.
Reinserting this ribbon cable is quite difficult. I found opening the case so that it sits upright at a 90 degree angle helps. The first two times I tried reassembling the top display did not work. Turned out that I was not inserting the ribbon cable in enough. I used tweezers to push this in by gently grabbing the ribbon cable. I was continually inspecting the cable for damage but apparently did not damage it. If anyone has a better idea on how to reinsert this cable I think others would greatly appreciate it.
Putting the cable back in is the hardest part out of all of this (if you can get past the screws near the beginning). If you have a friend that you trust very much and is very gentle, another pair of hands here really will help. If you're without a friend, make sure to use some flat, angled precision tweezers to push the ribbon in with one hand (pointed tweezers will do in a pinch but you'll have to be careful - I put a small dent in the ribbon and thought I'd broke it), and then use a spudge or something in the other to push the flap down.
Also worth noting is that the ribbon for the top screen also handles the 3D - if you complete the guide and find you are unable to turn the 3D effect off, you didn't insert the ribbon enough, as I had the problem and re-inserting the ribbon fully fixed it.
Careful when reassembling -- watch the position of the black wifi antenna wire! I got mine most of the way back together and noticed it wouldn't close all the way. This wire had come out of the little posts holding it in place and was wedged between the screen and motherboard. Now I have to take it all apart again to fix this.
Also if you're taking the board out of a working unit to get at the CLK signal to backup the NAND chip ("hardmod"), you don't need to remove the difficult ribbon cable in this step, or the other two wide ones at the top right from earlier. Leave them attached and swing the board out. It won't rotate a full 180 degrees to sit flat outside the unit, but you can open the screen 90 degrees to prop the rest up while having the board out on your table.
I am having problems re-inserting the three ribbon cables (3DS XL). Do you need to flip up the retaining flaps first? (I just pulled them out of the slots when removing them.
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Remove the motherboard assembly from the rest of the device.
Make sure when putting the motherboard back onto the bottom part of the casing that the antenna wire is where it should be - the first time I put this back together the wire got loose and was smooshed in between the casing and the Y and Power buttons, causing them to be stiff/not work. Using the spudge should help in pushing the wire back into the slots along the inside of the case.
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Before continuing with disassembly, use a pair of tweezers to remove the clear plastic diffuser for the wireless notification LED. The small piece is likely to fall out on its own, and may be difficult to find if it lands on the floor.
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De-route the Wi-Fi antenna cable from the bottom of the upper case.
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Heat the edges of the upper display front panel with a hair dryer or heat gun to soften the adhesive holding it to the display bezel.
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Begin prying the edges of the front panel off with a plastic opening tool.
adhesive is definitely reusable. I just completed this step. Please make sure the new display is ready to take the tape as soon as you remove it from the old display.
Disclaimer: I replaced my front panel entirely, and threw away the old one.
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If you do not have a replacement front panel, gently removing it (without getting the adhesive oily from your fingers/dusty) and replacing it is an option. The adhesive is incredibly tacky, and while removing the front panel will weaken the adhesive - it will likely be sticky enough to do its job. If not, double-sided tape or small amounts of water based craft glue may help (disclaimer again: I haven't tried these)- do NOT use superglues/liquid cements/epoxies.
Tai -
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Continue prying the remaining sides of the front panel by sliding the plastic opening tool down each edge.
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With all of the sides free, lift the upper display front panel off the display bezel.
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Remove the six 3.6 mm Phillips screws securing the rear display bezel to the front display bezel.
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Lift the edge of the rear display bezel closest to you and rotate it towards the hinge.
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Continue to lift the rear display bezel off the rest of the device until it is free.
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Remove the 3D adjustment switch from the front display bezel.
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Insert a metal probe into the space above the ABXY buttons with the point touching the metal hinge.
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Push the hinge towards the center of the upper case. This will require a fair amount of force.
When reassembling you may find it difficult to get the bar back into the hole in the hinge. A couple of tips:
* Reassemble it with the clamshell pieces in a ‘closed’ position (same position that you took it apart).
* The pin/bar may have rotated slightly during disassembly (mine did). It only goes into the hole one way - the hole is actually a slot. If the alignment is off even a couple of degrees it won’t pop back in. If this happens simply lift the edge with the bar up out of the hinge and push the bar so it pops back out (like it was going into the hinge). The take a pair of pliers and gently rotate the bar to fix the alignment, pop the bar back to the ‘unhinged/open’ position, then reassemble.
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Slowly pull the upper display assembly away from the upper case.
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Make sure that the various ribbon cables are being fed through the slit in the upper case.
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Separate the upper display assembly from the upper case.
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Carefully feed the speaker assembly ribbon cable through the hole in the upper display bezel.
You may want to use small pieces of scotch tape to reinforce each individual ribbon cable before proceeding, being careful not to cover the gold contacts. The cables can be very brittle and when rolled up tightly they can crack and break like a dry leaf. The tape can be left on the cables after removal and installation.
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Remove the 2.5 mm Phillips screw securing the right speaker board to the upper display bezel.
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Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flaps on the parallax barrier ribbon cable ZIF sockets.
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Use a pair of metal tweezers to disconnect the two ribbon cables.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left and right speakers out of their places in the upper display bezel.
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Pry the camera status LED out of the upper display bezel with the tip of a spudger.
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Remove the speaker assembly from the rest of the display assembly.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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Één commentaar
Getting the new assembly ribbon cable through the hinge is excruciatingly tedious. I tore my cable when I tried fishing it through with a small hooked pry tool. Learn from my mistakes
#00 screwdriver is too big... probably need a #000
thomascroguennec - Antwoord
#00 will work - but you must press down firmly and sort of jerk the screw out a few degrees at a time. If you don't press firmly, the screws strip very easily. Using #000 will strip the screws more easily.
Tai -
I used a #0 without any issues and 0 stripped. I used the #0 for all screws internally and externally. The head was sharp and I applied adequate amounts of pressure when loosening the screw.
Ben Kevan -
The correct screwdriver should be a JIS, or you can get a screwdriver specific for the 3DS from other sites for less than $2
Oscar - Antwoord
do you have to buy it
deeznuts -
Where would I buy a screwdriver specifically for the 3DS? Also would it work on the DS? I need to replace the battery for my DS.
Caitlin L -
I used Phillips #000 and it worked like a charm, i need to order a new SD board or do you guys think i should send it. What happened is that it got water damaged and everything works fine when i opened it everything looked fine no signs of water corrosion everything on the 3DS works exept it always give me a message saying the SD card is locked and i know for a fact it isnt locked i already tried using 3 different SD cards and none of them are lock protected and yes they are formatted as well. I need help
Leo Torres - Antwoord
there's a switch on the SD card, switch it and it will be unlocked again. it happened to me once too.
Bagel -
david hodson you are incredible. literally all you need to do is heat the screen up and pry it off and you make them take apart the whole thing
melody - Antwoord
You've done this?
magykmaster -
I have to ask the same question. If just the glass display is broken, and you're heating it up to remove the glass, is it really necessary to remove everything? Doesn't like like it is necessary
Wade -
I just did it your way and it went fine. didnt even have to remove the battery. This is incredible misstep on the authors part.
patrick -
only take out the screen for a motherboard removal? Are you using the wrong guide or was this guide used for two different repairs?
Reed Deemer -
I used a PH0x50, but it wasn't easy.
John - Antwoord
This may be a dumb question but where do I buy the 3DS upper screen?
John - Antwoord
eBay... Just do a search for the 3DS Upper screen. $9.49 & it comes with the tools.
Gary Darnell -
The LCD screen I ordered came with all the tools I needed except a pair of tweezers. All in all it was about $14.00 and a little bit of my time.
Gary Darnell - Antwoord
Does anyone know where I can find the right bumper button for a 3ds? I can't find it on ebay must of damaged it playing smash bros.
Steven Castro Parrilla - Antwoord
Really wish I had read the comments first... How about instead of the warning saying to press down hardly and go slow, you say to use the correct screwdriver size like others mentioned in the comments. I not only stripped multiple screws, even after putting a glove on for more pressure, I bent my screwdriver from pressing down so hard. Granted it's a cheap jeweler's kit screwdriver, but it still would've been nice to not have that problem and be informed of the right size in the first place.
hockeymorgan35 - Antwoord
Got my tools one day after ordering, as I live a couple hours away from the supplier, Will post again when i try guide.
nintendokakashi - Antwoord
I tried doing this with a #00 Philips but it just didn't turn
Acrobatic Mars01 - Antwoord
Hello there, I need some assistance I have done a full housing replacement I have everything working except the 3d slider . The 3D option is always on can someone let me know which flex it is or what I am forgetting . Thanks guys !
Noe Ibarra - Antwoord