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MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement

Geschreven door: Andrew Bookholt (en 4 andere bijdragers)
  • Reacties: 186
  • Favorieten: 50
  • Voltooide reparaties: 92

Moeilijkheid

Moeilijk

Stappen

20

Tijd vereist

1 - 2 uren

Secties

5

Markeringen

0

Inleiding

Use this guide to replace a broken MagSafe DC-In board.

Gereedschap

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Onderdelen

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  1. Stap 1 Lower Case

    Remove the following ten screws:

    • Remove the following ten screws:

      • Three 14.4 mm Phillips #00 screws

      • Three 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws

      • Four 3.5 mm shouldered Phillips #00 screws

      • When replacing the small screws, align them perpendicular to the slight curvature of the case (they don't go straight down).

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  2. Stap 2

    Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent.

    • Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent.

    • Remove the lower case.

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  3. Stap 3 Battery Connection

    • Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.

    • It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.

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  4. Stap 4

    • Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.

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  5. Stap 5 Fan

    • Use the edge of a spudger to gently pry the fan connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

    • The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.

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  6. Stap 6

    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the logic board:

      • One 7.2 mm T6 Torx screw

      • Two 5.3 mm T6 Torx screws

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  7. Stap 7

    • Lift the fan out of its recess in the logic board, minding its cable that may get caught.

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  9. Stap 8 Logic Board

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable out from under the retaining finger molded into the upper case.

    • Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable upward to lift the connector out of its socket on the logic board.

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  10. Stap 9

    • Disconnect the camera cable from the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board. Pulling the cable upward may damage the logic board or the cable itself.

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  11. Stap 10

    • Disconnect the following four cables:

      • AirPort/Bluetooth cable

      • Optical drive cable

      • Hard drive cable

      • Trackpad cable

    • To disconnect the cables, use the flat end of a spudger to pry their connectors up from the sockets on the logic board.

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  12. Stap 11

    • Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

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  13. Stap 12

    • If present, remove the small strip of black tape covering the keyboard backlight cable socket.

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  14. Stap 13

    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

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  15. Stap 14

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the sleep sensor/battery indicator connector up from its socket on the logic board.

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  16. Stap 15

    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

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  17. Stap 16

    • Remove the following nine screws:

      • Five 3.6 mm T6 Torx screws

      • Two 4.3 mm T6 Torx screws

      • Two 7.2 mm T6 Torx screws

    • In some models the screws may be slightly shorter as follows:

      • Five 3.0 mm T6 screws

      • Two 3.6 mm T6 screws

      • Two 6.7 mm T6 screws

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  18. Stap 17

    • Remove the following two screws:

      • One 8.6 mm Phillips screw

      • One 5.5 mm Phillips screw

    • Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.

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  19. Stap 18

    • Use the tip of a spudger to gently peel the microphone off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

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  20. Stap 19

    • Minding the many connectors near its edges, lift the logic board from the end nearest the optical drive.

    • Without flexing the board, maneuver it out of the upper case, minding the flexible connection to the DC-In board that may get caught in the upper case.

    • Remove the logic board.

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  21. Stap 20 MagSafe DC-In Board

    • Pull the MagSafe DC-In board cable toward the heat sink to disconnect it from the logic board.

    • Do not pull upwards. Pulling the connector upwards may break the socket from the logic board.

    • Remove the MagSafe DC-In board.

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Conclusie

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

92 andere personen hebben deze handleiding voltooid.

25 Opmerkingen

Een opmerking toevoegen

It's worth noting that the two ribbon cables held in place by ZIF connectors are a real pain to put back in - it's very hard to get any force pushing them back into the ZIF connector. It took two small tweezers and a bit of luck on the keyboard cable.

peter - Antwoord

To get back the keyboard ribbon I put the piece of Anti-Static Kapton Tape to enter it.

Ivan Oliveras -

As stated the keyboard connector is a nightmare to get back in, how I finally did it is, I presented the cable to the socket and using a sticky label pressing down pulled the label towards the centre of the mainboard

The magsafe connector is not under the mainboard and it would be easy for apple to have designed it so that the socket was on the top not the underside of the mainboard

brian whittle - Antwoord

I was using my Laptop (literally in my lap), with the charger connected when it felt very warm on my pant leg. Felt the bottom of the case by the Mag Safe connector and it was very hot, almost burnt my hand. Surprisingly hot. Wouldn't charge right after that, kept getting hot, intermittent charging. Looked at the contacts with a jewelers loupe; the gold contacts were burnt and blistered, plastic melted so it wouldn't make full contact with the AC charger. Charger contacts OK. Replaced DC in board, works like new, saved a bundle of cash. Laid all the screws out in related groups on table top. e.g. All 10 cover screws in a square. MoBo Screws in MoBo pattern, or, you could use a small metric/millimeter ruler to tell which screw goes where.

ovenwally - Antwoord

is it possible to use this magsafe board for macbook pro 11" 2011? please let me know!

niloulotus2005 - Antwoord

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