Kenmore 700 series “lid” error

Thanks, @jayeff — the tech sheet was a huge help.

Is there a difference between the Lid Lock and the Lid Lock Assembly? Test #8 references both, and I’ve replaced the Lid Lock Assembly (WPW10619844), so I think I have effectively replaced both.

@chadhendri94910

As best that I know the switch and lock are all part of the lock assembly.

Test #8 does also check if the wiring from the control board to the lock assembly is OK because the tests are conducted from the harness wiring plug (unplugged from the control board) back down to the lock assembly, thereby proving that the wiring and the switch and lock are all electrically OK from that point.

This doesn't mean that the lock (or switch) is mechanically OK although the tests done on p.2 should prove that.

If the initial manual tests don't work either for the switch or the lock, but test #8 is all OK, then it is either a faulty control board or a faulty lock assembly. I know you've replaced it but it can happen that you get a faulty part but then if it is OK, it's looking like a control board problem.

Perhaps check both the plug connector and the socket that it plugs into on the control board for corrosion and also the board for any obvious problems i.e. burnt out or heat stressed components

Ok, I’ve got a washer running, but more work needed to make it more reliable. Log (1/2):

* Lid lock assembly did not measure correctly with lid closed: I disconnected the harness from P12, the connector on the control board and probed as described in tech sheet. With the lid closed, the harness contacts did not show continuity across P12-1 to P12-5.

* I took apart my original lid lock assembly and saw it had a reed switch (SPST NO). Continuing to probe across those pins, I brought a small magnet near the reed switch and saw continuity. This tells me that the harness is probably OK and the magnet buried in the lid is maybe not.

* As a temp measure, I’m running the wash w/ a magnet sitting under the closed lid. Had to play around with position here.

* Although the lid locks correctly at cycle start, once the water has been filled it tests the lock again, and I’m getting a dL error here. So, I am also duct taping the lid while it runs just to hold it down. This lets me do my laundry from the last week+.

Log (2/2):

* The harness could still be bad. Specifically, the Reed Switch may not be in spec, so I may have to rework the board with a new one that is more sensitive.

* Since the original failure came after the washer was overloaded, I would expect a mechanical issue rather than an electrical one. It’s somewhat consistent to see a failure with a lid magnet, but I can’t really prove it yet. I tried to disassemble the lid but couldn’t get underneath to where the magnet is. Going to play around with that more this weekend.

* Additionally, I still have to bring the lid down to start the wash. Even with the magnet, it seems that the whole mechanism here is just very finicky.

* I’m not sure why I get dL in the middle of the cycle when it works fine at the start. The lid doesn’t seem like it moves much at all, so the lock shouldn’t have any problem with locking once it already has.

@chadhendri94910

You could always try bypassing the lid lock and see if the dL error still occurs.