Fixing broken blue wire to speaker

So I was following the repair to replace the front panel and got a bit ahead of myself and took the EMI shield off a little too quickly and as a result snapped the blue wire from the external speaker housing -.-

I am very bad at soldering and I have possibly the worst solder tip and solder known to man. However I just about managed to solder an additional length of wire (from a pair of headphones) onto the broken blue cable and then soldered the new wire onto the connection on top, quite poorly I may add.

The sound now works up to about 10% of the volume and anything above that is just heavy noise.

Does anyone have any ideas how I could fix this, would re-soldering help? Would really like to get this back like new.

Rgds

Beantwoord! View the answer Dit probleem heb ik ook

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Actually, you should tin the wire(s) before you solder them back. This means touch the wire with the tip of the iron in one place and the solder in another ... this lets solder coat the end of the wire. You should tin and clean your solder tip often too. Another rule of thumb, when soldering never touch the tip of the iron to the solder. The solder should be on one location and the tip at another ... as the wire in this case heats up ... the solder will flow towards the heat source.

The best soldering tutorials I've found include this three part series...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5Sb21qb...

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Hi Tom,

First of all: Congratulations on your soldering adventure! Honestly!

But besides my excitement for it, I also wanted to give you some important information and some advice.

It seems to me that the blue wire can be replaced completely as it is also soldered on to the pin on the plastic casing of the speaker. To solder on an additional length of wire creates an "open" or "unnatural" connection which might lead to transients.

I don't know how thick your replacement wire is. In any case, as a replacement for the blue wire that is too short I would use one with about the same profile/diameter. Just follow the standards of Apple which uses such "thick" wires rather than tiny wires that come with a headphone.

Last but not least: I assume that you covered the new solder joint on top with a thin plastic tape. Your problems with the volume might be connected to that connection, as it might have contact with the metal plate/steel middle plane. If you can, try to remove the docking unit and solder on your new wire on the bottom.

In sum and as a recommendation, I would re-solder it accordingly. Just give it a try. Soldering on something in a disassembled condition is much more enjoyable and even more promising.

Steffen

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Thanks for your response.

The wire I have used is about twice as thick as the original wire from the speaker enclosure as I couldn't find wire small enough. Should I try and resolder again with this wire thickness or get some thinner wire?

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Hi Tom,

I suggest using a wire that is about as thick as the original one. A thicker wire or diameter (cable coating) is not necessary, also considering the limited space you have to "store" or to run that wire.

Such a wire you don't have to buy necessarily. You might be able to find it in an item that you don't use any more and/or which is just laying around (e.g. in a old clockwork of a plastic wall clock; in an old device; etc.). It might also be a wire that was used to connect AAA batteries with a PCB. Just some ideas.

Yes, I would definitely re-solder (but with a thinner wire).

Steffen

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Found some thinner wire, however it is copper and the wire from the speaker is silver. Went to solder it on and managed to snap the blue wire completely off the speaker -.-

Now have had to order a new speaker part, so will let you know how the soldering of that goes when it arrives, but it should solve the problem as I am not having to use multiple strands of wire to get to the connection point.

Rgds

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Tom Parfitt zal eeuwig dankbaar zijn.
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