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Guides and repair information for washing machines produced by Maytag, a subsidiary of Whirlpool.

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Maytag 2000 Series Washer not spinning on Normal cycle

My washer barely spins on the Spin cycle of the Normal wash. However, if after Normal completes I run it on the Drain/Spin cycle only it spins just fine. Not receiving any error messages and I replaced the drain pump.

To clarify the problem:

When the washer runs Normal or Rapid Wash, once the light indicates it has begun the spin cycle, it spins a little bit and then the drain pump engages again and at that point the drain keeps going, it never spins again and eventually the cycle stops and door lock opens. The clothes are of course wet. I can then turn the dail to the Rinse/Drain/Spin cycle and deselect the Rinse. On this cycle it runs the spin cycle perfectly. Spins, drains, spins some more for a couple times ending in a very high spin and appropriately dry clothes.

Final Resolution, leaving this here for others:

Spoke with a longtime Maytag repairman who said maybe 1 in 10 machines of this model or similar had this problem. One that he attempted to repair during first year of operation, he replaced the main control board, the motor with its mcu, and the wire harness and the problem still occurred.

May happen less by running larger laods

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Hi @aneil39813,

What is the model number of the washer?

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Model # MHWE201YW00

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How can I set the water level? I don’t see a setting for that. There is Soil Level but that seems to lengthen or shorten the cycle. Does it also change the amount of water?

I have checked most of the LF procedures.  I still have to try to find my continuity tester.

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Hi @aneil39813

I realize that you said that there weren't any error codes being shown, but run the diagnostic tests as shown on p.5 of the tech sheet for the washer anyway and check if there are any shown by the test.

The error code possible causes and check procedures are shown on p.10 → p.14.

If you find the problem and it is a part that needs replacing, here's a parts list that is useful.

When you locate the wanted part in the parts diagram, you'll find that the manufacturer's part number is shown with the part. Search online for the part number only to find suppliers that suit you best.

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Thanks for the suggestion. I ran the diagnostic test. The first thing that came up was "88" which it says means there are no error codes to display.

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@aneil39813

Did it run the tests or did you perform a manual test, just to verify that everything was OK?

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To clarify the problem:

When the washer runs Normal or Rapid Wash, once the light indicates it has begun the spin cycle, it spins a little bit and then the drain pump engages again and at that point the drain keeps going, it never spins again and eventually the cycle stops and door lock opens. The clothes are of course wet. I can then turn the dail to the Rinse/Drain/Spin cycle and deselect the Rinse. On this cycle it runs the spin cycle perfectly. Spins, drains, spins some more for a couple times ending in a very high spin and appropriately dry clothes.

I reran the diagnostic and the first thing that comes up is “88” and then waiting a bit LF shows. This cannot be the actual problem as the water fills quickly and to an appropriate level and is maybe an old code? Then when I try to activate the automated test pressing 2nd button, the display shows “1” but waiting several minutes nothing happens.

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@aneil39813

LF could be the problem in that the water level pressure switch circuit may be faulty. Have you tried different water level settings and checked if it worked OK on any of them or none at all?

Check all the possible causes for an LF code as seen on p.10

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How can I set the water level? I don’t see a setting for that. There is Soil Level but that seems to lengthen or shorten the cycle. Does it also change the amount of water?

I have checked most of the LF procedures.  I still have to try to find my continuity tester.

door

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Here's a thought. (Please note this does not apply if the machine is fully electronically controlled - ie via ic timers, PICs and SCRs).

(I had this exact same problem with an elderly SpeedQueen.)

If the spin cycle runs normally when manually selected but not as part of a standard wash cycle, suspect the program timer switch. It may be the following: The program timer motor moves the contacts through the final cycle but only the drain pump contacts engage while the spin motor contacts engage poorly and then fully disengage as the motor moves the mechanism through its cycle.

If the latter applies, try exposing the contact blades and see if you can refurbish the worn-out/heavily carbonised/burned contacts.

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Good thought and thanks for relaying your experience but my washer is new enough to be fully electronically controlled.

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Final “Resolution,” leaving this here for others:

Spoke with a longtime Maytag repairman who said maybe 1 in 10 machines of this model or similar had this problem. One that he attempted to repair during first year of operation, he replaced the main control board, the motor with its mcu, and the wire harness and the problem still occurred.

May happen less by running larger laods.

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Aneil zal eeuwig dankbaar zijn.
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