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Repair information, service manuals, and troubleshooting help for refrigerators manufactured by KitchenAid.

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Refrigerator is freezing food. - RESOLVED

My KitchenAid (Whirlpool) refrigerator model KRFC300ess01 temperature is too cold in the fresh food section but the freezer is normal. Changing the temperature setting makes no difference. Here are the things I have tried: 1. Cleaned the condenser coils. 2. Checked to make sure damper door opens and closes. 3. Replaced refrigerator thermastor. 4. Replaced user control interface panel. 5. Replaced refrigerator main control panel. When I replaced the main control panel, the refrigerator did the opposite and was too warm. I finally called a repair person who came in and replaced the damper door (even though I told him that I really didn't think that was the problem). When that didn't help he said that he could no longer help me because I had tried to fix the fridge myself and it was, therefore, "tampered with." Everything seems to be working except its ability to control the temperature and I really don't want to have to replace it!

Update (11/05/23)

Just in case anyone encounters a similar problem, I thought I would mention that I figured it out and fixed the fridge. When the fridge was freezing food, the first thing I tried was replacing the thermistor, which did not fix the problem. I then tried replacing the user interface control panel and then the main control panel along with checking all the other common culprits but none of it worked. I started at the beginning and pulled out the thermistor I had put in and checked its resistance, which was way off where it was supposed to be (reading 10K and was supposed to read 28K) so either the new one I got was bad or it was the wrong one. I put the original thermistor back in and them put the new main control panel back in and it worked! Problem was a faulted main control panel all along.

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Hi @mortonce

Might seem counter-intuitive but check if the refrigerator compartment door seal is providing a good tight seal.

A faulty seal can cause warmer outside air to enter the compartment and you would think that this would mean that the compartment would be too warm, but this may also fool the control board into thinking that it needs to continue to keep cooling it down, so that it actually becomes too cold.

Place a sheet of paper between the door and the door jamb and with the door closed normally i.e. no pressure on it by you to keep it closed, try pulling it out. It will come out with a bit of an effort, but not that easily and it should definitely not fall out by itself. Do this at various points around the door, top, bottom and both sides. Also check that the door is straight and parallel to the cabinet in case it is a hinge problem causing a faulty alignment of the door.

If the refrigerator door seal is faulty , damaged etc search online for W10830162 (part number for the door "gasket" for your model) to find suppliers that suit you best.

Update (10/29/23)

Hi @mortonce

Here's the tech sheet for the refrigerator.

At least it is as far as this parts supplier and Whirlpool are concerned (your model uses Whirlpool parts)

I'm not convinced as the sheet shows features and components that aren't shown in the parts list e.g. the parts list only shows one thermistor in the freezer (part #17 freezer liner parts diagram) yet there are three thermistors shown in the sheet i.e. refrigerator, freezer and ambient.

Be that as it may, hopefully the sheet may still be useful.

Looking at the wiring diagram, the freezer thermistor connects between pins 2 & 4 of connector CH3 on the control board (white/yellow & white/orange wires). The white orange wire is the common wire which also connects to the other? thermistors which appear on pins 1 and 3 of CH3

You could check for continuity from the thermistor to pins 2 & 4. The sheet also gives the resistance values of the thermistor at certain temperatures as well - see specifications at the beginning

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Thanks. I checked the gasket and it seals tight all the way around. I also put another thermometer up near the refrigerator thermistor, which reads cold so I know there isn't a leak in that area. Since the thermistor is new, it must not be getting the signal to the board or the board is not reading it correctly or something?


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