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Repair information for Bosch dishwashers.

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Bosch stops mid cycle and goes to "Check water supply"?

So my Bosch bench dishwasher has started acting up. It started by going to "Check water supply" light before it even got warm (iv'e later found out that it does warm the water but after it drains this water and applys new water this water is cold, naturally) and used the detergent. I found a video on youtube that fit my issue and did what he did: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIwNv9H3...

After that the machine worked for about two cycles (or one day) and then it stopped working again. But this time it stopps alot later in the cycle. it now warms the water and even start to use the detergent as normal. From start it adds water, does some washing with that water, drain it, adds more water, drain it and then adds water again that it heats up and washes with for about 1 hour. Then just out of the blue it stops and goes to "Check water supply". Its not blinking just constant light. the machine is also nonresponsive and wont do a reset untill i turn it off and on again, start a new cycle and then hold the start button for 3 seconds.

I tried to do the soldering job more thorough just to see if it was a heating problem like in the video so i basically just scrapet off more of the green masking and made the soldering longer and even touch one of the metal holes further up on the PCB (since its all connected to the same metal plate under the masking). but it doesnt help. When it stops ive waited for about 12 hours and nothing happens.

Iv'e also tested diffrent types of water hardness on both Water softening for Special salt and Rinse aid with no luck.

Last night i tried water softness on rinse by telling the machine its not as hard (set it from 2 to 1) and then the water seemed to get too much. It went past the filter ring. I then tried to set it to 3 and same thing happened. Set it back to 2 and still same thing. See last picture.

Ill add some pictures of everything.

https://i.imgur.com/68p1OJ1.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ro6rytN.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/rg9UHOb.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/bbx1Kjw.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/lzwhbai.jpg***

This is the machine i have:

https://www.bosch-home.com/us/supportdet...

Also ive checked the water cable and the draining cable and its all good. Ive also checked the drainage pump and cleaned the filters and checked the spray arm.***

Ive also tried to turn off the drying cycle and ive tried washing on a lower degree celcius program (40 degree celcius) and nothing helps.

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So i went on another round of soldering. this time i also resoldered some of the filled in holes just north of the big solder on the pic i posted, the one on the top alittle to the right. i also removed the metall on the sides/top just to have a look. and i took of the white styrofoam and pressed teh drainage button about ten times.

What actually fixed my problem is unclear, but it work again! Im pritty sure it was the soldering that fixed it, either the big one resoldered and cleaned up properly, and/or the holes i resoldered at the top (I pritty much just heated the holes up again and let it cool back down). the holes is attatched to one of the two big white blocks on the other side of the pcb (actually through the whole PCB there is 5 off theese, two close to eachother and 3 abit further away). the blocks have the following markings:

HF3FD 012-ZTF(576) 10A 250WAC 85*C China DP078B

Since the button behind the styrofoam is the drain water fail safe, and draining the water was never a problem then i dont think that was the fix.

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It has now stopped working again and now it again stops at "Water in - Wash and heat the water - Drain water - Water in (stops right at the end at the water intake. It stops and goes to Check watersupply while water is going in, just at the end when machine is full off water)" like it did in the beginning of the problem.

So new theory here. Maybe everythime i drain the machine compleetly of water (except the special salt compartment) somehow this makes the machine work for a about a day? maybe the soldering im doing does nothing? i just think it does? i tried to remove the pcb without removing the water intake and water drainage hose'es and redoo the soldering on the pcb then put it back together again and this did nothing. but the other times ive tried (and the machine works then for a day or two) ive reomved the hose'es and put the machin up on its side in order to access the underside of the machine. This way the water left inside the machine (after a drain cycle) pours out of the drainage hole where the drainage hose would be attatched. I feel like ive checked most of the other stuff on the machine now, even the connector on the heating pump and it all looks normal, all tho the connector on the heatingpump is abit burnt (the metal part, not the plastic), but not much.

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I just tried the old way where i disconnected it and drained the machine, redid the soldering again by removing the old solder as good as i could and reapplied new. it still crashes...

Tested a 40 and 50 degree program now and now it works :S i bet as before it will work for about 2-4 washes or 1-2 days and then stop working again >.<

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Here are the 4 types of crashes it gets. What ever type its at it will always be like this untill i drain the machine, take it out of its place and disconnect everything, open it up and remove the main PCB and do so soldering on it then put it back together. After i do that it might change or it might work for a couple of runs then suddently it will choose one of theese 4 types and stay on that type.

1: Water in - washy washy for about 15-20 minutes where it also heats the water - Drain the water - Add new water then crash as the last of the water goes in.

2: Water in - Washy washy with warming the water - Drain - Water in (to clean off any residue at the floor of the machine) - Drain water - Water in - Washy Washy with heating water for abit then open detergent door and wash for a little while more then boom crash with hot water still inside.

3: Water in - Washy washy with warming the water - Drain - Water in (to clean off any residue at the floor of the machine) - Drain water - Water in - Washy Washy with heating water for abit then open detergent door while it keeps washing - Drain water - Add water (To clean off any leftover detergent on the floor of the machine) and boom crash while water is close to end of adding.

4: Water in - Washy washy with warming the water - Drain - Water in (to clean off any residue at the floor of the machine) - Drain water - Water in - Washy Washy with heating water for abit then open detergent door while it keeps washing for a whole cycle - Drain water - Add water (To clean off any leftover detergent on the floor of the machine) - Drain water - Add water washy washy - drain water - add water (to get ready for last washy washy and drying program) and then boom crash while last part off water comes in.

Beantwoord! Bekijk het antwoord Dit probleem heb ik ook

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Hi @cyrex86

I would check if the flow through sensor (part #0405) is OK. It may be intermittently failing

As water passes through the sensor it causes the reed contacts to send pulses to the control board which counts them so that it knows how much water is entering the machine.

What can happen is that the reed contacts can stick or not make good contact so that if the control board cannot determine the amount of water that has entered, it aborts the program.

You can test if the sensor is working properly, by removing it from the machine and then connecting an Ohmmeter to the reed contacts of the sensor. By blowing air into the sensor inlet tube, this causes the wheel to turn. The wheel has a magnet attached to it and when it spins every revolution causes the contact to make and the release.

You can see the pulses on the meter

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Hi @jayeff and thank you for your answer.

Ok so i've now tested this. The wheel spinns very nicely and the Ohm'ometer is set to 2m and shows up .035-.045 when it spins. it goes up at the end to about .150 the last couple of spins and then ending at .000 when it stops spinning. There is a very small ticking sound when it spins but i guess this is just when the magnet passes the contact. i also noticed it was abit dirty so i cleaned off the contacts on the small PCB that the sensor is soldered to and i tried to clean the cable that connects to it aswell.

https://i.imgur.com/zXs78iD.jpg

Is this as it should be? Did i do something wrong? Sorry but Multimeter is not my strong suit :P

I gotta say that it is very determined on when it crashes. same place every time. Now yes there is four diffrent places it crashes but theese can change after each time i take the PCB out and do some soldering to the one contact. Sometimes it works after i do some soldering for a couple of cycles and some times it doesnt but changes type of crash.

So that is

1: Water in - washy washy for about 15-20 minutes where it also heats the water - Drain the water - Add new water then crash as the last of the water goes in.

2: Water in - Washy washy with warming the water - Drain - Water in (to clean off any residue at the floor of the machine) - Drain water - Water in - Washy Washy with heating water for abit then open detergent door and wash for a little while more then boom crash with hot water still inside.

3: Water in - Washy washy with warming the water - Drain - Water in (to clean off any residue at the floor of the machine) - Drain water - Water in - Washy Washy with heating water for abit then open detergent door while it keeps washing for a whole cycle - Drain water - Add water (To clean off any leftover detergent on the floor of the machine) and boom crash while water is close to end of adding.

4: Water in - Washy washy with warming the water - Drain - Water in (to clean off any residue at the floor of the machine) - Drain water - Water in - Washy Washy with heating water for abit then open detergent door while it keeps washing for a whole cycle - Drain water - Add water (To clean off any leftover detergent on the floor of the machine) - Drain water - Add water washy washy - drain water - add water (to get ready for last washy washy and drying program) and then boom crash while last part off water comes in.

Wich one of theese will happen after i tried to do some soldering to the main PCB and it will stay like this untill i try a resolder.

Iv'e also noticed when it crashes and i quickly do a reset program on it and then disconnects it to inspect the main PCB it is kinda hot (the main PCB or rather even the white plastic that houses the main PCB). Not super hot but keep in mind it takes time to disconnect, drain it for water, take off the metal plate under the machine before i get to the PCB that is inside a plastic holder.

Now i gotta mention. i do not have any PCB friendly Flux. Iv'e ordered some from ebay from England but its gonna take about 3 weeks untill i get it. Its not possible to get this in my country for some strange reason. Not even ifixit Europe Store has this :(

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I just did a eco (50 degree) wash cycle and it stopped at type 3. Cold water inside but the air is still hot. This is the same type it was doing before i tried to check the sensor, so no change in that. The program went on for about 60-80 minutes before it crashed. Full cycle is about 2 hours - 2 hours 30 minutes.

I'll try a couple of program cycles tomorrow aswell.

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Its actually working to day. first wash i did. ill keep trying through the day and the next upcomming days.

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Crashed on second, third and fourth try :/ blerh. Type 2 theese times tho! diffrent from last time atleast. Water is still hot and has detergent in it.

door

@cyrex86

Bit unsure regarding the Ohmmeter readings you got when measuring the flowmeter.

It is just a simple reed switch so that when the contacts make (magnet on wheel pulls them together i.e. they are closed) they are short circuit and should measure 0.00 Ohms,

When the magnet moves away, the contacts break (move apart) and open the circuit so the meter should measure infinite Ohms i.e. no reading or OL

Allowing for the fact that the wheel is spinning and the meter may lags in response you should see pluses going from no reading to 0.00 Ohms and back again.

When the wheel is stopped, unless the magnet is directly under the reed switch (or very close to it) holding the reed switch closed, there should be no resistance reading being shown on the meter i.e it should show open circuit.

door

Yeah i proparly have the ohm'ometer set too high so the OL actually shows the resistance in the reed instead. Like 2M is pritty high isnt it? 2 million? Im pritty sure if i set it to like 200 or 2k i do get OL when it spins and 0.00 when standing still. i think i tested this when i took the machine appart last time, but im not sure. i remember atleast when i put it too 200k (one below from 2m) i got a reading of about 15.50 or something like that. I'll give it a try later.

i just had a theory. maybe it getting too hot? Like it almost seemed that it works once in the morning and then after it has heated up once (All tho this has only happened once, and that was yesterday. All the other times its been pritty stubborn not working, not even in the morning), or if it gets too hot in the air around the machine then it would work anymore. But i just tested it again early in the morning where i have had the window open all night so its good and cold in my appartment, and it crashed again at type 2... so that theory kinda went out the window :P

Then again the machine has gradually been getting worse and worse over the past months so maybe one of the components have been gradually failing? i dunno.

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@cyrex86

You may have to use a magnifying glass to check the reed contact as I can't remember if it is normally closed or normally open when it is standing still AND the wheel magnet is not close to it causing it to operate.

So it could be that when it is still and the magnet is not close if it was supposed to be open then you should measure OL and then when the wheel spins you should get pulses of 0.00 Ohms.

When it is still and the magnet is not close and if it was supposed to be closed you should measure 0.00 Ohms and when the wheel spins you should pulses of OL.

door

Oh wait, are you saying that since its showing up with .045 its broken? and that it should say OL when not spinning (not .000 as it does) and .000 when spinning (not .045)? And since its showing as it does that means that it is broken?

If so why does the machine work then? Like it always takes in water, and it never crashes on the first water intake. Sometimes it crashes on the second water intake. But at the moment it crashes abit after the third water intake where it does use the water for about 45 minutes and even heats the water up. And opens the detergent compartment and drops its down into the machine and washes for about 20 minutes with the detergent...

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Hi,

I had a similar malfunction with my bosch dishwasher, it stopped mid cycle, no error showing at the display, only the time 0:00nd check water supply light on.

Guess what, the flow sensor was broken at on side, the glass have a crack. When heating, a malfunction occurs.

Sensor replaced, dishwasher works fine.

Thansks cyrex86 and Javeff , yours posts and coments helped me to fix my dishwasher.

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Ja Nee
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Javeff is the true hero here.

I just posts walls of texts with theories and what I've tested so far :P All tho i am kinda happy with figuring out that hot water went back through the watertank through the sensor ^^ Once that was figured out then everything started to make sense!

Again i could never have figured it out without the help from Javeff.

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