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The Kenmore Elite HE3 is a washing machine by Kenmore.

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f h error code

I have to hit pause and restart thru out the cycle. Getting a F flash H flash code?

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Run diagnostic mode (can be found on the internet) and if errors soon after water fill usually the "flow meter" is the problem.

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It started leaking out the bottom first...then it wasn't draining properly..and sometimes even if there was no load running there would be water piled up in the bottom...and now th HF code...I'm going downstairs to take it apart now but curious if any of these prior issues point to a certain fix.

Thanks.

Jenny

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I have gotten this issue where no water comes in and then machine throws an FH error, myself. I have verified supply water, replaced the inlet valves, pressure switch, front interface pcb, and rear pcb where everything plugs into. I have disconnected the water tubing just after the inlet valves, started a cycle, but no water comes to that point. It appears to me that I should, at the VERY LEAST, be getting water past the inlet valves, but I don't. These are brand news valves and a brand new control board. Any suggestions?

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F/H:

Condition

No water detected entering machine or Pressure switch trip not detected.

If after 30 seconds the control does not detect water entering machine and then valves will be turned off and the error code will be displayed.

Or

If the control has turned the water valves on and after 8 minutes the flow meter has detected 10.5 gallons of water passing through it, but has not detected the pressure switch trip, the valves will be turned off and the error code will flash.

Check/Repair:

Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to clear the display.

If there is no water in the unit:

1. Make sure that both valves at the water source(s) are turned on all the way.

2. Check for plugged or kinked inlet hoses or plugged screens in the inlet valves

3. Verify inlet valve operation

If there is water in the unit:

1. Verify Drain pump operation

2. Pressure Switch Hose is in good condition and properly connected to Tub and Pressure switch

Verify there is not a siphon problem

Verify wire harness connections to:Inlet Valves, Pressure Switch, Drain Pump, Flow Meter, and Central Control Unit (CCU)

Check all hoses for possible leaks

Verify pressure switch operation

Verify flow meter operation

Verify CCU operation

If this is intermittent, it would be very hard to determine the cause.

It can be caused by low water pressure into the water from the customers water supply, or clogged inlet water valve screens.

Make sure you don't have any duct tape or something around your drain pipe, it needs that air gap to prevent siphoning.

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I have been experiencing the FH problem for a while. I usually "fixed" the valves or poor contacts between connectors and control unit and then the washer worked for some time. Recently my traditional repair did not work and thus I replaced the flowmeter and also the pressure switch. No success. So I pulled the drain pipe from a narrow metal drain and the washer works now. I have to admit I did not take the warning about the siphoning effect seriously.

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Vlad, when you pulled the drain hose from the narrow metal drain pipe, does water go all over your floor now?

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The metal pipe has the inner diameter bigger than the drain hose does. There is no overflowing there unless there is a clog in the metal pipe.

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I took inspiration from this slow, incremental approach that suggests just a differential in pressure could even be the problem. The outlet hose was *so gross*, totally sclerosed with nasty thick goo. I cleaned that out, then checked the input hoses first cold then hot. The screens unfortunately are located inside my HE4t and I couldn't easily access them. If this fix goes south that will be my next step. But so far all I've had to do is just clean the cold input line, then when off the machine I used its end to squirt high pressure water down the output hose line to get some of the gunk that I couldn't reach to go away from there too. Inside the hot water line there was a bit of metal screen and metal wire. I rinsed that best I could too and cleaned it, then put it all back and so far no more F/H codes. So excited this isn't (so far) requiring more.

So my advice is to try the easiest stuff first. I'm sure sometimes for some folks it's necessary to change out the sensors or valves, but so far here, not.

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Had drain pump replaced and also pressure switch. Ran cycle with no issue and again it started. He Jed water supply. House pump pressure was not consistent it was between 30 psi and 50 psi and kept fluctuating. Spent a few hundred dollars already replacing parts.

Changing house pump and hoping it solves problem otherwise maybe it’s a mother board problem? At a loss for solution

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I too had the FH error. By running the diagnostic test, I was able to eliminate the flowmeter because step C01 ran and water was flowing into the tub. After searching the internet I figured it was probably the pressure switch and/or it’s hose. I order the parts and started to replace them. The pressure hose is connect to the Airtrap. What I found was my airtrap was completely clogged. Since nothing was “flowing” to the pressure switch, it detected that there was no water entering the tank and generated the FH error. I removed the airtrap and clean it. I re-ran the diagnostic test and no FH error. I really don’t think the pressure switch was the problem, but it was not that expensive for the part so I figured I would use it anyway. So you may want to check the Airtrap.

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Thanks for the tip

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My issues was i was getting enough water, but still getting the F/H error.

Tools I used were a torx head screwdriver, small flat head screwdriver and a pair of channel locks and a 5 gallon bucket

Disconnect the power. Using a small torx head screwdriver, Removed the top and the front control panel. I replace the front door boot too, so i had the bottom off as well. Plenty of you-tube videos on this.

Check the drain. i’ve had a sock in there before and got the same error.

Pull the hoses from the back of the unit and check water flow.

Check and clean (if needed) the screens at the intake valve. I used the small flat head screwdriver to get them out.

i disconnected the washer dispenser inlet hose from the intake valve and also pulled the nozzle from drawer assembly. There is a tab that holds it in place. i used the flat head to pry it up. Be careful not to break it. i also disconnected the wiring from the water intake valve and the flow meter and labeled them. Blow through the hose. you should be able to hear the flow meter spin freely. If not, something could be blocking it. Once it is all clear, i reconnected everything turned on the power and started a cycle. I left the dispenser drawer out and saw plenty of water coming out. have towel to kind of block the front from water coming out. HInd-sight, I would have done this first.

Since everything is good to this point. I looked to the water level pressure switch. Since i had the machine full of water, I turned on the drain cycle. I saw suds coming out of the water level pressure hose. there was a small hole in it. Since it was near the switch itself, i was able to cut out the hole and reattach the hose.

problem solved.

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Read this before you spend money on repairs or parts:

I have a older HE3t washer (from 2000 and still works great!) that was consistently flashing the F/H error code. If I did anything that pushed water (rinse or wash) to the machine 1-2 minutes in to the cycle the code would pop and the washer stop.

i pulled the cold and hot lines at the machine, cleaned the screen traps (which have never been cleaned and were very plugged). The washer is working fine and no more errors codes. Those screen traps impact water flow pressure.

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I have an older Kenmore washer too with the same problem. The water lines are good, but how do I clean the screen trap? Do I need a professional?

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This is the process I used to resole the HF error code.

1- Removed pressure switch from washer.

2- Disassembled pressure switch., made sure all parts were in place and functional.

3- Reassembled pressure switch.

4- Tested pressure by blowing into the tube. You should hear clicking, this is the diaphragm responding to pressure you are applying by blowing into tube.

5- Checked for continuity on the pressure switch, when triggering the diaphragm of the pressure switch. Used a volt/ohm meter.

6- Removed flow meter, made sure there was not obstruction by blowing through the flow meter. I also used a magnet to trigger the wheel inside. Repeated for both directions.

7- Cleaned out the filter of the water pump.

8- Cleaned out inlet valves.

9- Installed back flow meter and pressure switch.

I got rid of the HF error code. I believe it was flow meter, something may have caused the internal wheel to work improperly.

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I replaced my intake valve because of water entering the tub when the washer was off, but when I put everything back together, I shoved the drain hose deep down the drain pipe, thinking that that was a good thing to do. Well, every time I ran a cycle, the washer would fill with water, but give the F H error ~12 minutes in. Thank you all for the advice that the drain hose being too deep down the drain pipe can mess up the pressure sensor and thereby trigger the F H error, because upon pulling the drain hose out a bit, problem solved! Easy-peasy!

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Hello, had same issue with the F02 fault. Took off the drain pump found wire from a bra, probable stopped the pump wheel from turning. Also the drain line where it hangs on the sink was 80% plugged. Verified the pump worked and re-assembled. Then got fault F H. Checked the water supply system, all looked good.

Finely removed the access door again to the drain pump. I found that I missed the power plug to drain pump. Corrected my error and we are now up and running.

Thanks everyone for the info, helped me out.

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I’m currently getting the FH error and can’t figure out what’s going on even with all the above. In my case water is going into the washer fine, not clogged screens, checked the flow sensor by blowing in it and it seemed fine.

If after getting the code I hit the off switch and then the on switch it will start back up. Sometimes I have to do this 3-5 times, but eventually I can get the full cycle to run. Could this still be the pressure switch? Seems like if that were the problem it wouldn’t let me start back up.

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I'm dealing with thee exact same problem...I've noticed if it's a cycle on heavy load I get the code VS. Normal load..I think it may have something to do with the drain pump also...I turned the water level up and have had more success since then...but for awhile...reason still unknown...water was coming in but leaving right away...which is what made me raise the water level...I sealed a hole in the door seal and replaced shocks and bought a drain pump...made sure all hoses were working properly...still cant figure out why water was being siphoned out...maybe the hose position..idk..it is kinda short..

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I don't understand what the drain hose would have to do with it. The code comes on before anything has drained during the cycle, wouldn't the valve to the drain hose be shut off? Interestingly, I also had to seal a hole in the door seal at the same time as the code started coming on, although after sealing it the code still comes on.

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I have an older HE3t and recently got the FH code. When I run the diagnostic the washer fills with water no problem. When I run a load of laundry, it fills as well and everything is fine, until it gets to the Rinse and Spin cycle. When it gets there (or if you just run Rinse & Spin) no water enters and it makes a low humming sound. Any ideas?

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Basically don't run the washer unless both your hot water and cold water are ON. HF = Hot Fluid pressure fault, I would imagine CF would be cold fluid pressure fault. I thought the machine is suppose to be able to heat up the water, but apparently not on its own. The problem with these dumb error codes. I just want to continue where the cycle left off. Why the FF does it happen 20-30 minutes into the cycle; stupid. It was a sanitary cycle; hence the expectation of heating up the hot water, and the cold water is 3/4 pipe so no pressure problem. They put a sensor on the hot water valve; thx for nothing Kenmore...like the most useless of sensors. If no water or very little makes it, fine then fault. But just complaining about the hot water, my middle finger is restless.

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kaye zal eeuwig dankbaar zijn.
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