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Maytag dryer drum not moving or making any noise

—- update / solution —-

Hi all,

The issue is resolved (for now). The root cause was the CCU / Main Board.

during all the tests I noticed strange marks on the drum due to harness rubbing on it, I figured out the hardness should not be routed that way beside the drums being pushed down all the time by the drum turning clockwise. One of the thermistor wires had all insulation gone from rubbing, I fixed it and properly routed the hardness next to the door using two factory zip tire clips that are there empty. (Previous home inspector went must have got some work done on it which was not done properly).

That didn’t solve the issue so I took out the main board to see if constant pull on the harness may have cause some solders to come apart and that’s what I noticed on the bottom of the board , it looks like the relay’s solder came loose for a while and was causing sparks / heat there and it melted the pcb board metal where the leg was soldered, I exposed some area on the circuit and soldered the pin there. I suspend the pulling caused this so hopefully the fix will stick or else I already ordered a used board off eBay in case this issue comes up again (I won’t be soldering it again) . In case this gets heated again and burns out then I will put the replacement board in but for now the dryer is back in business. See some pics attached.

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——— original question ——-

I have this Maytag dryer that I was using yesterday. I noticed it felt like it was vibrating/rattling bit too much so I was going to check after finishing the load.

Once the load finished and I tried to start another load, it won’t start anymore. The lights come up and I can select the right option and press start, I can hear the relay click and it says “sensing” but usually at that time the drum is spinning (right after pressing start). But not anymore , it’s not spinning at all, the motor is not making any type of sound (no hum, it’s dead quiet).

Could this be dead motor or something else I can check? Thanks.

Maytag ymed6000xg2

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Hi @amar60544

Here's the tech sheet for the dryer.

See the troubleshooting guide on p.8 Will not start cycle or Drum will not spin to see what tests to perform to find out what's wrong

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Thank you for all your help. Using the guide was the best, I was able to go through all the steps for drum not spinning:

* belt is fine - motor makes noice at all

* I checked the thermal fuse and it has continuity on the two pins

* Door switch has continuity when I press the switch in or close the door

* Did the motor test P9-1 and P8-4 show 1.5 ohms resistance so that’s within 1-5

* Last thing is says is to replace CCU so that seems to be my issue

Good thing is it is easy to replace from the top

Please let me know if I missed anything.

door

@amar60544

Did you try activating service diagnostic mode on p.3 > then install diagnostics on p.5 to see what error codes were being shown (see p.7), you didn't say?

If it is an F1 E1 code i.e. CCU problem, the tests on p.9 may help to isolate whether it is the board or perhaps a connection or wiring problem as it may not be the board itself.

Best to try and verify first where it is, instead of just getting a new board and find that doing that didn't resolve the problem

door

Hi, I did the tests:

1) Based on error F1E1 When I do the CCU Power Check, all 11 steps pass then it tells me go to step 12 which is install diagnostics

In install diagnostics test at the very first step I don’t hear the motor come on, just the relay clicks and I get F1E1 error.

I then did the motor circuit test on Page 12 and went through all 14 steps.

One thing I didn’t understand there on Page 13, Step 10, if says if the main and start winding resistance are correct (which they were based on the table on that page) then there is an open circuit between motor and CCU. Is that suppose to be normal or is that an issue? Then it tells you to go to step 12 and test belt switch which I did and it was working normal.

Is that safe to assume the motor is fine and it’s the CCU

door

@amar60544

Go to p.21 to find the motor circuit.

You need to prove continuity from CCU P9 pin 1 through to Motor terminal 4M.

The wire colours are in the diagram.

You have proved the motor windings and the belt switch but not the entire operate circuit.

If you get continuity from the CCU harness plug P9 pin 1 (check for corrosion, loose wire etc, then yes it is the CCU.

To make doubly sure, check the entire circuit for continuity. You won't get a reading through the CCU as the K1 relay is not operated but you can prove from L1 to P9/2 and from P9/1 all the way through to the door switch.

If that all is OK then yes it's the CCU

door

I did every single test I could for the board and at the motor/pulley switch etc. All looked good. The issue is resolved, see my updates in the original question with pictures. Every time I tried to post an update; it got tagged as spam and got deleted to I updated the original question with what I did to resolved. Thank you for all your help, that guide was super helpful.

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Hi Amar,

I had something similar happen to my Samsung dryer. The only difference is mine didn't click when I went to start it. I ended up testing several parts with a multimeter and found that the thermal on the heating element had blown. A replacement fixed it right up. I was also worried that the motor had gone out and was happy to find it was a fairly inexpensive part to replace. I hope this helps with your brand.

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Did it make the whole dryer rattle/vibrate before going out? I am going to take the thermal fuse out before getting the motor out and will let you know if that’s the issue.

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Hi all,

The issue is resolved (for now). The root cause was the CCU / Main Board.

during all the tests I noticed strange marks on the drum due to harness rubbing on it, I figured out the hardness should not be routed that way beside the drums being pushed down due to drum turning clockwise. One of the thermistor wires had all insulation gone from rubbing, I fixed it and properly routed the hardness next to the door using two factory zip tire clips that are there empty.

That didn’t solve the issue so I took out the main board to see if constant pull on the harness may have cause some solders to come apart and that’s what I noticed on the bottom, it looks like the relay’s solder came loose for a while and was causing sparks / heat there and it melted the pcb board metal where the leg was soldered. I already ordered a used board of eBay and soldered this back. In case this gets heated again and burns out then I will put tue replacement board in but for now the dryer is back in business. See some pics attached.

Block Image

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Block Image

Block Image

Block Image

Block Image

Was dit antwoord nuttig?

Score 0
Voeg een opmerking toe

Hi all,

The issue is resolved (for now). The root cause was the CCU / Main Board.

during all the tests I noticed strange marks on the drum due to harness rubbing on it, I figured out the hardness should not be routed that way beside the drums being pushed down due to drum turning clockwise. One of the thermistor wires had all insulation gone from rubbing, I fixed it and properly routed the hardness next to the door using two factory zip tire clips that are there empty.

That didn’t solve the issue so I took out the main board to see if constant pull on the harness may have cause some solders to come apart and that’s what I noticed on the bottom, it looks like the relay’s solder came loose for a while and was causing sparks / heat there and it melted the pcb board metal where the leg was soldered. I already ordered a used board of eBay and soldered this back. In case this gets heated again and burns out then I will put tue replacement board in but for now the dryer is back in business. See some pics attached.

Block Image

Block Image

Block Image

Block Image

Block Image

Block Image

Block Image

Was dit antwoord nuttig?

Score 0
Voeg een opmerking toe

Hi all,

The issue is resolved (for now). The root cause was the CCU / Main Board.

during all the tests I noticed strange marks on the drum due to harness rubbing on it, I figured out the hardness should not be routed that way beside the drums being pushed down due to drum turning clockwise. One of the thermistor wires had all insulation gone from rubbing, I fixed it and properly routed the hardness next to the door using two factory zip tire clips that are there empty.

That didn’t solve the issue so I took out the main board to see if constant pull on the harness may have cause some solders to come apart and that’s what I noticed on the bottom, it looks like the relay’s solder came loose for a while and was causing sparks / heat there and it melted the pcb board metal where the leg was soldered. I already ordered a used board of eBay and soldered this back. In case this gets heated again and burns out then I will put tue replacement board in but for now the dryer is back in business. See some pics attached.

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Amar zal eeuwig dankbaar zijn.
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