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Hello, anyone know the model of headphone mount used? The 4 pin configuration is making it difficult to find a replacement. My kids broke the mount completely, now the unit is stuck in headphone mode but headphones cannot be plugged in.
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@christophe80469 the connector is a Switchcraft 35RASMT6CHNTRX Available at Mouser.com part number 502-35RASMT6CHNTRX or at Digikey.com part number 137-35RASMT6CHNTRXCT-ND
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Dang, you're good, man! Nice find!
@dadibrokeit well thank you. Years of practice :-)
WOW! Thank you so much!
@christophe80469, @oldturkey03 I see a problem guys.
The part you found is absolutely correct for the second picture shown in the question. The problem I see is that the one that's specified is a surface mount part, matching the second photo. However, the other three pictures are showing what looks to be that same part, only it's a through-hole mount rather than surface mount. So if you order the part that oldturkey03 pointed out for your board, it won't work.
@dadibrokeit Oh shoot, just ordered the part.
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It was recommended to me that I try to cut most of the old headphone jack out with snippers before trying to desolder.
Here's the inside of the headphone jack exposed. We found the cotton my mischievous child had implanted!
Getting the old jack out was a bit tricky; we ended up needing to use a solder wick (for example shown here: https://youtu.be/HZLQzBOOQbw?t=1817)
Here's the PCB after the headphone jack was removed, revealing four through-hole mounts.
I purchased Digikey.com part number 137-35RASMT6CHNTRXCT-ND and it has connectors in the right spot but they're flush with the bottom of the 'black box' chassis of the headphone jack as hopefully shown here:
Using the ESD-34A tweezers shown here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D6JXD7J we gently bent the pins 90 degrees so they faced down and could be properly slotted through the holes in the PCB. Since the digikey part was so cheap I purchased two of them so I'd have a backup in case I broke the first one. If you come across this post and need one for your own toniebox let me know and I'll mail the extra one to you!
Here's a picture of the new part soldered back on the PCB:
There's a metal protrusion visible toward the front of the new headphone jack, which I guess was also a fifth pin (?) that wasn't needed? I left it intact, I hope that was an ok decision.
One random note, as I was reassembling the toniebox, I realize I'd forgotten which three-pin connector on the PCB was for the battery and which was for the speaker.
Fortunately the schematic I found here https://github.com/toniebox-reverse-engi... identifies that the connector labeled K8 on the PCB was for the battery and the one labeled K9 was for the speaker. I guess this should have been intuitive since the speaker connector is closest to the headphone jack and the battery connector is closest to the input power jack.
I screwed it all back together and it works!!!!! I can hear audio clearly out of both channels on my headphones and if I unplug them the speaker automatically plays the audio.
Thank you to all of you!
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@sammyparadise that is awesome! You know what? You could make a guide out of this. That will help the next person that has the same problem as you do. It's easy and fun to create these guides. https://ifixit.com/Guide/new The iFixit community will appreciate this.
If you have any problems, I am certain our Bürgermeisterin (Global Head of Community) @amber or our own awesome Community Manager @krisrodriguez can help you out with this.
I think it'll make a great guide. Awesome job!
Repair is War on Entropy!
i'm not opposed to making a guide but if you don't mind me asking, what benefit would it provide for anyone beyond just reading this page?
A guide here would be wonderful! As a fellow parent I know how hard kids are on things and your guide would provide repair information to a (likely) common issue.
Please feel free to email us at community@ifixit.com if you have any question on how to get started or if you'd like any support!
Thank you so much for this! Just fixed toniebox.
Hi, just want to mention we followed your guide and successfully replaced the broken headphone jack on our TonieBox!
The only trouble we had was trying to clean the old solder out of the holes (same as you mentioned). Eventually, because we couldn't get them clean, we just heated up the old solder on each hole one by one and pushed the pins through one by one. Worked like a charm!
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Keeping my fingers crossed, but I think this one might work.
Hoping you can find an alternative supplier, since Digi-key is saying this part has a 28 week lead time and a minimum order of 13,500 pieces. The good news is they're only $0.60529 each! Well, until you do the calculation and realize it's going to cost you $8,171.41 to fix your device. :D
EDIT:
Okay, found something that looks a little better. There are some Chinese parts that appear to be a direct substitution; the one you want is PJ-328A-2, but I haven't been able to find that specific one. However, there's another version, PJ-328A without the "-2" suffix that should work. It has one extra pin that would have to be cut off, but otherwise I believe it'll work.
10Pcs 3.5mm Female Audio Connector 5 Pin DIP Stereo Headphone Jack PJ-328A
The bottom side of the circuit board clearly shows the through hole mounts when looked at side by side with the PCB footprint of the through hole part. Keep in mind the footprint is from the top, so these two views are a mirror reflection of each other.
The pin labelled pin 7 is the one that needs to be removed in order to fit. The part with the -2 suffix is the one that comes without the pin, but I was unable to locate one of those for sale anywhere.
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@dadibrokeit awesome find. I am certain that with all that, the Toniebox will be back in service soon.
Thank you for all of your help! I could never have found these lol
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Found on german eBay:
https://www.ebay.de/p/6054721925?iid=175...
Should be the right one?
There is a similar discussion in the german part of iFixit:
https://de.ifixit.com/Antworten/Ansehen/...
As far as I can see it's a switchcraft 35RASMT3BHNTRX
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Yeah, that one's the surface mount version and won't work for Christopher's through hole board.
This user has more informations how to buy ears and headphone jacks, look into his profile:
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My 4 yr old stuffed small pieces of cotton balls into the headphone jack and then used her headphone cable/plug to jam the cotton into the jack, breaking it. If I hold a headphone plug in place I can hear audio on the right-channel only. But if I let go the headphone releases and the speaker will no longer work, presumably b/c it thinks a headphone is still attached.
So that led me to this thread!
I'm hoping to replace my headphone jack as well but mine doesn't look exactly like the ones in any of the photos or links provided here and I'm hoping someone might have input on what I need to order.
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Hi Sammy,
I'm going to stick by my original post. The thing is, you may not find one that looks identical, but it's not uncommon for more than one vendor to supply the same part, but they'll each have their own design so they'll look different but functionally they will be the same.
I went through literally hundreds of headphone jacks looking for something that would work, and the two I listed are the closest I could find. You would need to cut off pin number 7; the one closest to the front of the jack. It's not used on your device but since there's no hole for it, it won't mount on the board with the pin in place.
But a careful comparison of size, shape and circuit board footprint tells me that these will work; just be sure to get the version with the A on the end (PJ-328A vs. PJ-328). The non-A version is for a surface mount board and won't work on your through-hole board.
@sammyparadise I still think that the one listed in my original answer will work. I am not convinced that this is a straight through-the-hole design.
ok thank you both! certainly cheap enough for me to order and find out so that's what i'm doing to do! i'll try to report back in time.
@sammyparadise that's the spirit. Looking forward to finally resolving some of this. If the one I favor does not fit, I buy you Pilsener :-)
I want to provide an update with new photos so I will add a separate new answer to the original post. Short version: I'm back in business with Digikey.com part number 137-35RASMT6CHNTRXCT-ND as recommended by oldturkey03 ! I think I'm the one who owes you the beer now.
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