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Details and repair information for the LG LFX21960** refrigerator, a bottom freezer model without ice-through-door, featuring both drawer and door access and an automatic defrost system. This page covers information for model numbers matching the pattern LFX21960**.

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LG Lfx21960st Refrigerator Does not work after power outage

Our Fridge is out of warranty and I am looking for ways to diagnose it and fix it

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After a storm we had knocked out the power, all of our appliances went out. When the power came back on all the appliances came back on except for the fridge. I can see that there is power to the unit as I have checked the outlet. Also the light on the ice maker selector inside the door goes on and off with the switch. However the water and ice dispenser panel on the door won’t come on. I have read that there are ways to reset the unit using the panel, but if the panel won’t come on, I can’t use it. I have removed the back cover off of the main panel and checked the fuse and connections and everything seems to be fine as far as I can tell. I am looking for other items and parts to check before I buy another main board. any help would be greatly appreciated. thank you

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Did you ever get this fixed? I am having the exact same issue, but there was no power outage. But my panel is dead, the dispenser light is on permanently, and nothing will dispense. LG won't even talk to me about this model anymore.

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@Geoff Gordon It might be as simple as the “child lock”. On the display you should have a “lock” or “child lock” button. Holding that button for 3-10 seconds will either lock or unlock the display.

This feature is on most refrigerator and dishwasher control boards to prevent curious children from changing settings. When the display is locked, none of the buttons will work. The refrigerator will be working properly but you won’t be able to get ice, change settings etc.

Each display board is a little different. It should say on the board how to turn off the child lock. The owners manual will have that information too.

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Thank you, but unfortunately, the panel is dead (as I mentioned) so none of the buttons work to turn off child lock. In addition, the child lock does not disable the ice maker from making ice nor does it permenantly turn on the light inside the dispenser.

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@Geoff Gordon

What is the model number of the refrigerator?

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It’s in the title of the post. Thanks!

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After a power failure some refrigerators will flash an error code and some turn the unit off. Your owner manual will tell you what combinations of buttons to push to turn it on. You might try unplugging it then plugging it for a minute, then plug back in. This resets the control board.

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I would use a multimeter and just work down the power train to see where the break is.

Start Relay

The start relay works in conjunction with the start winding to start the compressor. If the start relay is defective, the compressor may sometimes fail to run or may not run at all. As a result, the refrigerator will not be cold enough. To determine if the start relay is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity between the run and start terminal sockets. If the start relay does not have continuity between the run and start terminal sockets, replace it. In addition, if the start relay has a burnt odor, replace it.

https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/...

https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/...

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Thank you for your reply. The problem I have is that the fridge is not running at all.

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Hi @tfmc ,

Here's a link to a page from the service manual that may be of some help

Here's also a link to a schematic for the fridge

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Thank you for your reply. I have downloaded the manual before, But since the water/ice maker panel is not working, there is no way I can get in the test mode.

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Hi @tfmc ,

I just thought that the schematic might be helpful as it shows the voltages (+12V & +5V) and location into the display board which you could check. If no voltage is present then at least you could follow it back to the main board and go on from there.

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Thanx again. I will look into that.

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Hi @Geoff Gordon,

Here’s the schematic from the service manual, of the power supplies used in refrigerator that may help.

It shows the location of the 15.5V DC, 12V DC and 5V DC power supply test points. Maybe a good place to start, considering that the panel is dead.

Be safety aware when testing as there is lethal 115V AC as well near to where you will be testing.

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The Fishman zal eeuwig dankbaar zijn.
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