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Released on September 19, 2014, this 5.5" screen iPhone is the larger version of the iPhone 6.

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iPhone 6 Plus front camera and screen problem (mainboard)


I'm doing Apple repairs for about ten years, but I've never had similar case. So I got an iPhone 6 Plus with not working front camera. First - I've replaced flex with new one, but front camera still stays black (back camera is OK). I've checked it on another 6 Plus and worked fine there. After that, I checked all connectors - they look fine, untouched. So next suspects were FL1123 and FL1144 - they have continuity. I've checked filters FL1112, FL1113, FL1114, FL1115 - they also have continuity, but the schematic says they have to be 120OHM. I got different reading on each, never reached 120OHM (max was 34OHM). I've also decided to check U2301, which is responsible for front and back camera. I removed it and jumped pins 1 and 2, just for testing. No success, front camera stays black, even with another flex. The voltage on C2301 and pin 1 of U2301 is ~3,5v. Isn't it too low? Shouldn't be around 4v?

Second thing:

I've been doing all checks etc. with my known good test screen. I decided to put the original screen back and what? It doesn't work. Phone turns on but have no image. Ok, it could be my bad, I could damage flex etc. BUT after connecting it to another 6 Plus it works perfectly. I connect it back to to repaired iPhone and it doesn't work. I've tried 5 different screens and all works except the original one, with which I got the iPhone. Do you have any suggestions what could cause this problem?

Thank you for your help!

Beantwoord! View the answer Dit probleem heb ik ook

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did you check u1602


I didn't. Isn't U1602 responsible for flashlight? Mine works fine


check fl1120 connection


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Alright, you have a lot stuff in this in this question so let's attack it one by one.

  • Have you checked FL1166? It is also important.
  • Ferrite Beads, or Filters, are supposed to measure 0 Ohms when measuring in DC. They will get resistive as the frequency increases...that is essentially what they are designed to filter; high frequency noise. So if you are testing continuity on filters with your multimeter, it should read a dead short. IF you are seeing any resistance, then the bead may be bad.
  • Your VCC_MAIN seems low. If the device is plugged into a charger, VCC_MAIN should be ~4.2V. If it is battery powered only, then it should be at the same voltage as the battery.
  • Jumping pins 1 and 2 of U2301 (with U2301 removed) allows full VCC_MAIN voltage to get to the cameras. This may have damaged the cameras further. U2301 is a buck converter who's purpose is to take VCC_MAIN and regulate it down to 2.85V.

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Minho, thank you for your answer,

- I haven't checked FL1166, but I will do it tomorrow and let you know about the results.

- I did measure these filters with battery disconnected, I'll check them again

- I got ~3.5V with battery only, I'll measure it with charger plugged.

- As I have wrote before, I've jumped the pins only for testing. I'm going to replace U2301 to be sure it's OK.

What about the screen? Have you ever experienced something like that?

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I've solved screen mysterious behavior - it turned out that FL2050 was loose and there was no connection with C2095. Probably I moved it while removing U2301. After resoldering FL2050 original screen works again.

But I still didn't solve front camera problem. As you suggested, I've checked FL1166 - it's OK. I measured all beads again, they seem to be OK, they show 0ohm while phone is on. I put new U2301 and still front camera stays black. I've measured voltage on C2301 and it was ~3,5v on battery and ~3,9v on charger. It's too low, and I think it may cause the problem.

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Narek zal eeuwig dankbaar zijn.

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