So I have come across a controller with this exact issue and after doing a Google search I have only found others with the same issue and no solution so I did a little bit of probing and analysis on a good board and compared the readings with the ones I procured with the subject in question and gained some interesting insight. So d23 is not to blame here. Poor little d23 just looks guilty and is easily blamed when you see the damage it caused. Metaphorically speaking the pile of crap on the living room floor (the burn on the board for all those who are too serious). That poor little diode was just seeing way too much current and although it tried… it died. But why? So I began to investigate the ones closest to the dearly departed one by one (starting with the easiest components of course) when at last the part I was hoping not to look into had come up. I didn't want it to be u1, I really didnt. Not only would it be a pain in the ass to replace being so close to so many other components but if you over heat you begin dropping things from the other side and with my level of steady hand combined with my level of bad luck I thought disaster would come to pass if it truly was u1. So I took a break and had a sandwich.
Back to u1. I did what anyone with a logical thought process and troubleshooting abilities would do and I searched for a part labeled 1AEBH finding nothing really fast like, which could only be blamed on my poor eye site, which I found out upon taking a second look with my magnifying glass (which is ironically plastic) and editing my search parameters with more correct and up to date telemetry. Upon correcting my error……….. I came to find that AEBH is a very popular thing to label your teeny tiny components before shipping them out by the billions. The toss up was between a frequency something or another, a car thingie and a linear voltage regulator. Although I was tempted to assume it was the car something or another my better judgement was leaning more towards the linear voltage regulator being thay it has all the classic signs of such a part between the feedback circuit, the voltage divider, the stabilizing and decoupling capacitors as well as the smoothing capacitors on what looked like the output. If it was the car something or another l would be damning myself as I was putting all of my eggs in the linear regulator part basket.
With that in mind I had a little looksie at the datasheet for the part in question and Immediately I realized that this had to be the one. I had properly identified the suspect! With no time to spare as I wildly swiped left to right and up and down as well as a pinch or two followed by the opposite of a pinch (zoom in and out, if you know what the opposite of a pinch is I would love your input, thank you) and from that I determined that this part is definitely the one that killed poor innocent hard working d2. The fault was within the linear voltage regulator (u1) causing it to draw far too much current which overheats batteries, burns components and ultimately causes a failing controller. I tested resistance between pins as well as voltage when plugged I'm as well as tested just how much current the thing drew and it was surprisingly high. The voltage drop when pressing the power button to turn the thing on (the power button) alone was bad enough to make me question why I bought an xbox in the first place (I wanted ps4 but settled due to my brother who is a ps4 hater). The circuit was supposed to be running closer to 5v and was only seeing about 1v which should have caused the failsafe in U1 to trigger (2v dropout voltage) but being shorted to ground on a few pins would explain why it completely disregarded the datasheet and kept on sinking sweet sweet current. As much fun as I'm having with this It looks like I've gotta cut it short. Between the actual fixing of this controller and then the typing of my super interesting story here it's very late for a post on a random blog that's very old and my guess is that it won't be seen by anyone and that everyone who posted probably already jusy bought a new controller anyway therefore my epic conclusion is as follows…
For those of you who don't love all the extras of a fun story that I stopped before finishing after noticing that its now 2am and I still haven't played destiny…wait there I go again… sorry I can't help it I guess.
Problem: xbox 1 controller not overheating and not working.
Reason: faulty linear voltage regulator (U1)
Fix: replace U1 or in my case replace the entire board from one out of the graveyard of xbox 1 controllers I have collected in a short period of time. (I'm dropping hints that xbox 1 controllers are so $@$*!& that I have a vast collection of dead ones which i have accumulated in a short period of time because I have yet to have a %#*@ controller last more than 2 months so far… so thanks for that Microsoft and I hope that everything in your future is as well crafted and reliable as your console controllers. Rant over) .
Well there it is folks. I hope you enjoyed this way too long post and I hope it is helpful to everyone who reads it.
idk my controller is been broken
door young g
Yo tengo un problema con mi control, es de tercera generación, cuando lo prendo no me sirven algunos botones solo funciona el boton de xbox y los joysticks.
Si alguien sabe me serviría de mucho gracias.
door Yeison L. Baron