Jesse Hooton

I have this used Dell desktop I’m trying to use but it’s protected by a BIOS or HDD password. Is there any way I can reset...

I have a customer with some eTalk flip phone from verizon and it is currently having an issue where it automatically...

There is no known way to get around the passcode to get the data unless you either backed it up or connected it to a trusted PC with USB debugging enabled.

By the looks of it you have a faulty part and you’ll need to order a new one.

Your battery should be fine especially if it was a brief dip in the toilet. It thinks there’s water in the port probably because of a short between a couple pins in the port. Try some rubbing alcohol on a toothbrush to scrub inside the port. You can gently push the bristles into the port to scrub the inside. Let it dry for a couple minutes and then try to charge it. If it continues you’ll probably need a charge port replacement. Thankfully the port is on a separate daughter board which means replacing it is pretty easy. The downside is it takes after the 1st gen pixel design in that the screen needs to be lifted off to get to it. You’ll need to be really careful about removing it but you should order a replacement screen to have on hand as it’s quite easy to break.

If you’re after your files find a donor device. The screen can be damaged as long as the touch, picture, and battery work. You can swap the board from your device (the one with the files you’re after) into the frame of the donor. Just take your time and be patient and as long as you didn’t damage anything else, you’re ready for the next step. You’ll need to power the device on to enable USB debugging mode. You’ll want to have the wireless charging coil screwed into it’s proper place so it can make contact with the board. The reason being is the coil has a temp sensor on it. Without it, the phone will think the temperature is too low and won’t charge.

Are you referring to the pins inside the connector? If that’s the case you’ll need someone skilled in microsoldering to replace the connector.

“I replaced the battery myself about 2 weeks ago with one unbranded one I bought off eBay” The issue may be due to the fact you purchased an unbranded battery from eBay. Along with Amazon, Wish, and AliExpress, neither of them have any quality control over the parts sold on there so you’re basically buying cheap crap. If the old battery is still in tact, I would swap that back in and test it. You can run the phone without fully reassembling it to test if it’s the battery. If that fixes it, send that battery back for a refund and order one from a reputable supplier like Mobile Sentrix, Injured Gadgets, or Mobile Defenders. All 3 are a great option but Sentrix and Gadgets do sell higher capacity batteries for iPhones and use them in my own shop with a high customer satisfaction rating. If the issue still persists, you might have a board problem. Does it at least show proper battery percentage in the top right corner? Or is it stuck at 1%?

I would shut off the gas to that immediately if that’s the case. I wonder if it might have a gas leak.

How often does this occur? Meaning does it happen every time you repair those models or does it happen randomly? I’m thinking you might have a batch of defective parts or it could be that you’re being to rough when removing the buttons. Where are you ordering parts from?

If your phone is running hot in a certain place then it has a short circuit somewhere resulting in decreased battery life. I was thinking you may have had a defective battery on hand as some vendors sell poor quality batteries but it sounds like that short circuit is the issue.

You’ll need an LCD replacement. Order a replacement digitizer as well just in case you damage the current one. Or have a local repair shop take care of it.