Spikey2

Is there a way (that has a chance of success) to get the switch and 'volume up' button working without having to disassemb...

I like to keep gadgets together with the accessories - an ideal way to store is a ziploc bag. Condensation is a worry with...

I saw the question about a 'dimming display' and the responses made me think - will LED lit LCDs last longer - or are the...

My trusty iPhone, just upgraded to iPhone OS 3.1, is losing battery life fast. I replaced the battery with a new item from...

I am trying to replace the battery in my iPhone - but I don't have the steel dental pick suggested in the teardown. Any...

No, you need to install a resistor in parallel with the led globe, as the current draw if the Led is not enought to operate the flasher relais properly.

It may be that a plastic tab on the frint cover, that is used to,operate a switch that indicates the cover is closed, has broken off. Or a magnet used for the same function has dislodgeg. Have a close look if you can notice anything to this effect.

If your Dyson DC58 keeps losing suction, see the Dyson DC58 Loses Suction problem page for possible causes and solutions. I’m not sure what you mean by 'losing suction.' When the battery gets older, the running time gets shorter - it stops after 10 minutes or even 5 minutes of vacuuming. Is the max/boost switch on (on the back, above the handle) - it switches between normal and maximum suction. If the canister is not attached properly, or something stuck in the seal, this will leak vacuum. Have you cleaned/washed the HEPA filter (ever?)

possible air leak at the manifold - between the engine case and the carburator - could cause it too. Does it drive/ride reasonable, is there throttle response under load?

I have found that sometimes a very unbalanced load can shake the drum-dampeners out. I speak of some metal tabs being held between two rubber pads. hard to explain w/o pictures. Open the back, have a look - if you are technically experienced, you should see if there is something wrong on this front.

I most likely is focus shift - and a 'bad lens'. If you can, you should return it for a properly working one. try shooting 'full open' and see how the results are - if they are better, its focus shift. if its not focus shift, then maybe the lens can be fixed by a qualified technician - not sure how 'easy' the are to work on.

I found that using a sim that does not get service (overseas carrier, no roaming agreements..) caused my phone to keep searching for a usable carrier, and drained my mobile quite quickly. This was before iPhone, but still an observation - that maybe still holds true

Very likely caused by overheating. Your battery is most likely 'on the way out'. just keep an eye on it in case it gets too bad, and be prepared to buy a replacement. How is the capacity going?

Does it heat up? I have seen dishwashers not cleaning and the heater coil was broken. Check if it heats up, and check the heater coil for continuity with an ohm-meter cheers

Hard to tell what actually happened to cause that. As you say it's empty, have you tried to do a 'factory restore / initialization'? That is what I'd try -looks like the file system is somehow corrupted, and hopefully the init will restore it

iFixit on the ball as usual. Happy to see that with all that high integration the design is still sort-of modular!

The ground and Vcc planes / traces were very big in 'those days' .... and why not. The weird thing is that the worse my eyeight gets, the smaller the traces and components become. THEN at least we could easily fix broken PCBs an replace components in the field - try that today!

Those were the days!

I hope you get your hands on a colecovision - I earened my living fixing them!

and never payed a single game of Donkey Kong! :(

Like others - this is where I am stuck. No dental pick, so I search for alternatives. Good the get reminded - if I mangle the case too, hey, my speck cover will hide the scars!