We found an A1286 lying against a garbage can in Manhattan on New Year's Eve 2014. the battery bulged so much, it broke the trackpad. We were able to extract it without removing the logic board. We saw two sets of four screws: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=... Screws 1 and 4 (silver in color) anchored the bracket to the trackpad. Screws 2 and 3 (darker in color) anchored the bracket to the upper case. Picture of removed items: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=... Pictures courtesy of the Fixers Collective Facebook page.

Not sure if this solution is applicable as I first read about it when a chef wanted to make his uniform as white as possible. Find a way to put juice from lemons in the wash. That's how he did it, but read up. I also read he used actual lemons instead of lemon juice. Your materials may be too different from his for this solution to be effective. His whites were what car dealers call "super white". The problem with white cars is that they only look their whitest in the showroom.

I would also check your battery. If its gets bloated and distended, it will affect the way the clickwheel behaves. I would pop the iPod open and try to use the clickwheel with the iPod halves separated and see what happens.

Before banging the drive, I would propose reseating the hard drive and its connector cable - just unplug and replug. I have been able to rescue iPods this way with nothing but a guitar pick. It's not necessarily a permanent fix, but it will get your iPod up and running for a while at least.

I have two MDD's exhibiting the same condition - the power light activates when pressed, but goes dim when released. There's also no chime and no fan activity. The state of the PRAM battery doesn't matter, whether it's used, depleted, new, or even absent. The state of the four RAM slots doesn't matter, whether they're empty, partially full, full, or contain known-bad memory. I've read that there's a capacitor inside that may be offending. It's 390 uF and 450V at 105 deg. C. It's also 35 mm in diameter and 42 mm in height. I forgot the manufacturer, but recall the name amongst a known set of manufacturers of defective capacitors. Even though there are no visible signs of wear, this person replaced the capacitor and was able to fix his G4. I'm going to badcaps.net and hope other people can support what this other person experienced. I believed I pull the original story from the Apple Discussions Forum.

I removed the logic board. There's no white crud underneath, and I failed to find burn or scorch marks anywhere else. I did find one leg of an 8-pin chip that looks suspect: I also put WD-40 (in a No-Mess Pen) on the area that previously had white crud. I used a toothbrush with a rather gentle motion. I then used more of that 99% isopropyl alcochol to clean up the WD-40. I tried to put more solder on that bad leg, but I don't think I was successful. The PB chimed! There was a video image that washed the background into an off-white fuzz. You can see the difference as the left edge of the display functioned properly: After loading the OS, the video "repaired" itself: I would say try some WD-40 to clean that suspect area. Wheeee! lkvee, Less than 1 second ago • Delete

I have the same problem on my 1.67 GHz PB 15". Changing the RAM around didn't change its behavior. Even powering it up WITHOUT RAM failed to change its behavior. The most interesting behavior came when I tried to reset the PMU - the fans also activated with no image and no chime and no Caps Lock when pressed. I opened up the keyboard and found some interesting crud just below the right fan and to the left of the right speaker: It looks consistent with liquid damage, but the area surrounding that crud looks spotless to me. I used 99% IPA and a q-tip to clean as much as I can. I will probably extract the logic board and examine it for more crud. Stay tuned!

I am experiencing the same problem on my iBook G4 14" (1.42 GHz). I tried accessing Open Firmware but got a white screen. I powered down, rebooted, let it power up and waited for a few minutes. I was able to hear the beeps that result from adjusting the volume with a corresponding level of loudness. I then pressed the power button and the enter key, and the iBook shut down. I rebooted with external video ready to go. External video works! The primary image went directly to the external video monitor. I was not able to set up an extension to the desktop. Any changes I made to either video failed to get an image on the LCD. I'm thinking the video cable's gone bad (or perhaps needs reseating) because a good cable would at least signal the iBook to setup extending the desktop to the external monitor. I will confirm once I get a replacement video cable and/or LCD. Thanks for reading! Update: I just replaced the LCD with another one. I didn't test whether the replacement was working. I was able to replicate the...