Mijn favoriete handleidingen
Vragen
-
Are replacement keyboard/top cases compatible across different models?I have a Toshiba Chromebook 2 2015 with a Canadian English keyboard, and would like to replace it with a USA keyboard (the en...
-
Do you really have to remove the battery to replace rear camera?I have ordered a replacement 4S rear camera which will hopefully fix my 4S. In reviewing iFixit and other tutorials for the r...
-
If part of screen is displaying correctly, GPU should be fine?I have fixed up a few MBP's (usually broken screens), and have a question. If a MBP has a wonky screen in which part of the s...
-
Can you replace the battery without soldering?Is there room in the iPhone to simply cut the old wires, strip the end, and then attach the leads to the replacement battery ...
Antwoorden
-
Heeft geantwoord op: Good guide to replacing trackpad?You can disconnect the trackpad from that connector cable, and leave the existing cable in place. That's the easiest way to replace the trackpad, since your cable is still working. There is a black plastic flap that locks the ribbon cable to the trackpad, that you'll need to flip up with a spudger. The cable is also held to the trackpad with adhesive, you can use a spudger to slowly separate the cable from the trackpad.
-
Heeft geantwoord op: Don't have right torx. OK to remove HD with battery in place?The battery is removed in the directions for electrical safety, not because the battery is physically blocking the hard drive from being removed. But as long as you are careful not to touch the contacts or bare wires on the logic board, you'll be fine. Your computer is not going to go up in smoke or anything if you brush the logic board, but that's why they have the 'better safe than sorry' instructions.
-
Heeft geantwoord op: MBP 10 Mid 13 trackpad replacement with 15'sThe part numbers are different, however the 2 trackpads come with different cables. So it may be that the trackpads are incompatible, or it may be that the trackpads themselves are identical but the cables are different (they route to different locations on the motherboard, I am guessing the connectors are the same though.) EDIT- I can now verify that the mid-2209 13 and 15 MBP trackpads are the same, it is only the connector cable that is different between the 2 sizes. Keep in mind that there was at least 1 generational change in trackpads, the original unibody models (pre mid-2009) had trackpads that were physically different (the little hinge nubs on the bottom of the trackpad are in different places, it's easy to spot once you know what to look for.) From mid-2009 to 2010 (and maybe later), the 13 and 15 trackpads should all be the same. I'm not sure if Apple has made any changes to recent MBP trackpads though.
-
Heeft geantwoord op: A1286 Keyboard and trackpad compatibilityJust adding an FYI in case anyone else finds this in a search. The cheapest and easiest repair here by far would be to replace only the trackpad (assuming the problem is with the trackpad itself), which is a relatively simple repair- remove back cover, battery, and then a few screws to get the old trackpad out. You can pull the key caps off the sticky keys, and clean the scissor mechanisms underneath which should get those keys to feel normal again. I don't think the backlight can be repaired however. Replacing the upper case is a pretty tough repair, since all the components of the computer are basically fixed to that upper case, and must be removed step by step.
-
Heeft geantwoord op: display housing partly unattached@Supan- thanks for this suggestion. Considering it's used for adhering windshields to cars, this seems like a good solution.
-
Heeft geantwoord op: Why Airport still has no functionality?zemsantos- Everyone with experience on this has posted that connecting the Airport board the wrong way will likely damage your logic board such that wifi will no longer work. Your symptoms seem to match this. You have 2 options- buy another Airport board just in case the logic board is actually okay, or buy a little USB wifi adapter and use that instead. There are USB wifi adapters that sit almost completely flush against the side of the notebook, so that's not a bad option at all. The trick is to make sure you buy a compatible adapter. Here are some links I had gathered on this, my Airport board replacement ended up working so I didn't try an adapter, but the info might help you- https://discussions.apple.com/thread/407... https://discussions.apple.com/thread/270... http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/index.p... Airlink driver for Realtek RTL8188SU: http://www.airlink101.com/support/index.... http://airlink101.com/download/download_...-awll5088_mac.pdf
-
Heeft geantwoord op: Replacment guide for power and volume button ribbonHere is a guide from the iPad 2 Wifi section, I'm sure it applies to the GSM and CDMA models: iPad 2 Wi-Fi Power/Mute/Volume Buttons Cable Replacement I broke this cable while replacing the front glass/digitizer of my iPad 2 CDMA. The repair went pretty well, but I accidentally broke the power/volume button ribbon. Replacing the ribbon seems like it will take some work, but not too bad- probably similar to replacing volume cable in iPhone 3GS (which I've done a couple of times.) I'm not sure if I will go through the trouble, I have a smart case anyway for the power button. Bringing up the soft volume control isn't that hard either. My main fear is getting dust in between the glass and LCD and fiddling with that again. OTOH my front glass is pretty easy to remove now, and doesn't need a heat gun anymore!
-
Heeft geantwoord op: Wifi signal very low after repairBumping an old post, but in my experience a weak wifi signal (as opposed to no wifi) is often caused by damaged cable for connector 6. If you did another repair then you may have stressed the cable a bit and broken a connection. Here are the instructions for this repair- iPhone 3G GPS Antenna Replacement The iFixit Guide refers to this as the GPS atenna module, but pretty sure it is for both GPS and wifi. Its one of the more involved iPhone repairs because you have to first remove the large cable assembly that controls the volume, power, etc. Getting that back on is sort of a pain, but just be patient and you should be fine. Just look at the pictures for reference of the original arrangement. IFixit doesn't seem to sell this part anymore (or else I would post that link), but it is available on EBay for pretty cheap. Well worth the benefit of good wifi again. Another possibility is that you damaged the connector on the motherboard itself, but that is generally less likely unless you really applied too much for...
-
Heeft geantwoord op: How does a person learn to repair MacBook logic boards?I wouldn't think you need an EE degree from a 4-year college. I imagine a good working knowledge of electronics (the tinkerer type), plus the necessary schematics for the computer you want to fix, are basically what you need. Of course there will probably be certain tricks of the trade that only experience (or someone with experience) can teach you. One thing is for sure- I see a lot of water-damaged MBP's on EBay nowadays. (I can replace parts but can't fix motherboards.) I wonder if the current models are more susceptible to water leaking through the keyboard. I think they typically sell for more than the parts value, so I imagine people are fixing them.
-
Heeft geantwoord op: Can you replace the battery without soldering?LOL, thanks Louis. I have soldered little connections before, but had read about how difficult this one was- I guess that's all relative. I've done enough iFixit repairs to know I can handle most difficult jobs, but also that I'm better off to take the easiest way possible... ;-)
Commentaar Gids
Actieve uren
De tijd die u dagelijks actief bent geweest in de laatste 90 dagen. Elke lijn op de grafiek is een actie die u heeft uitgevoerd op de site (we tellen alleen grote acties, zoals stemmen op en bewerken van berichten). De nummers onder aan de de grafiek zijn de uren van de dag in Mountain Standard Time.
Filter activiteit op:
Reputatie na verloop van tijd
Reputatieverdeling
| Gebeurtenis | Telling | Delta |
|---|---|---|
| Post is positief beoordeeld | 8 | 96 |
| Antwoord geaccepteerd | 1 | 30 |
Badges
84754
Recente Meldingen
Markeer alles als gelezen
Show:
Alles
Alles
Ongelezen
Here is a partial disassembly guide for the X100 to remove the top plate:
http://www.bolland.be/blog/2014/06/09/fu...
The X100T screws look similar, between these 2 guides you should be able to figure out the easiest way to partial disassemble the X100T to remove the top plate. Note that in the other directions you still have to remove screws for front and rear shell so that you can move them to access the hidden screws that secure the top plate.
Nick has the right answer- the grooves on the ring will slide into the gap around the camera. I realized this the hard way by glueing the the ring to the display side. Luckily I was able to get it off without totally destroying it.
I did the same thing once, and eventually got it out. Try tweezers, a screwdriver, magnets, holding the MBP on its side so gravity is working with you, etc. Eventually the little bugger will come out, you just have to keep working at it.
I've opened these up many, many times, and by far the easiest method I have found to disengage the front clips is as follows:
Lift up the top case by the rear corners near the hinge, keep lifting so the top case is tilting towards you. You will feel some resistance, but keep lifting and you will hear the clips disengage with a 'snap'. Doing it this way should not bend the top case metal or loosen the spacing between the top case metal and plastic trim. The clips will not break, they will still engage when you put the top case back on.
It basically takes me 5 or 10 seconds to take off the top case now, and the case goes back on nice and tight as before.
YMMV and all that, but that's my experience.
This photo can be slightly misleading if you're not careful. It appears that unlike my cable, the pictured cable has the gray dot on both sides. In this photo you can see the 2 little sideways U notches that should be on the OTHER side. In photo 22 you can see that there are NO such notches as he is sliding the cable out of the connector.
My gray dot is only on the underside (not visible when the cable is plugged in correctly. When I first took the cable out to replace my Airport board, I thought maybe it had been inserted the wrong way which will damage the motherboard. So the gray dots are not a good indicator, just look for the sideways U notches as indicated in the iFixit directions.
There is a steel 'latch' that flips over from the left side of the connector, to the right side. After you flip this latch over, the cable will easily slide out.
I had a logic board replaced by Apple (bad nVidia GPU), and believe it or not the Apple tech mixed up the screws. My latch did not work as good until I discovered and swapped the misplaced screws.