David Rojas posted a link ^ that absolutely had the solution for me. (I reposted the steps below). When I first started experiencing the problem, it felt like hardware, but logically it didn’t make sense since as others said, it didn’t happen while in recovery mode. But as the days rolled on … it seemed like the CPU was spiking rapidly and it was heating up rapidly and it seemed like it was going into thermal shutdown … I found a program that lets you control your fans by your own rules and with that I was able to keep it from shutting down unless it was under extreme load … so that made it feel like a hardware problem, so I did what most techs would do with an 8-year-old laptop … I replaced the thermal compound… but it didn’t fix it… Then I stumble in here and Mr. Rojas had the answer. Since links go down over time, I’m reposting the steps here that fixed this problem for me: "Reboot into recovery mode holding down CMD+R after boot chime, then open Terminal. [code] Reboot normally - open Terminal [code]...

ALL chips have to be soldered, but it is not uncommon for a manufacturer to cut legs off a chip during the manufacturing process … do you see any signs of it burning out? black soot, or burn marks or are the legs just missing clean cut style? I would look at the usb port that you plug into before looking at the motherboard… if you can remove it, take the port out and clean it really good with dish soap and warm water and a tooth brush … dry it out then use rubbing alcohol with a tooth pic and a paper towel and GENTLY insert the alcohol soaked paper towel down into the usb port and clean it good. Make sure the 4 metal lines in there are shiny and that there is no crap in that port … you can visually inspect with a flashlight before taking it out … see if there is an obvious obstruction in the port itself.

Swap the board… without some very expensive equipment, swapping components on the MBP is an impossible task.

Sounds like it’s not much use as it is so i, personally, would take it apart and see what the situation is with the battery.

You’ve either got something shorting to ground in there, or you have a faulty thermal sensor that is causing the problem … but it is quite possibly something that is happening when the device heats up. Try this … get a desk fan, and aim it at the ipad while you’re using it and see if the problem still happens or possibly stays running longer while its being cooled by the fan…

If it were my Macbook, I would replace the keyboard … but BE VERY CAREFUL with the connector port that the keyboard cable plugs into … they usually have a tiny plastic “blade” that you flip up to release the tension off the cable so you can pull it out … that little door blade is very fragile … i broke mine once and was forever on an external keyboard until one day i had to replace the motherboard and got a new connector (obviously) …. Look for video on how to replace the keyboard or the ifixit pics … know the process before you remove the first screw.

It could absolutely be a battery issue … if you have another controller that works swap the battery as a test … if it fixes it, then buy a new battery. It would be highly unlikely that the charging circuit failed while the rest of the controller still works.

Everyone has a different definition of what it means to “crash the wifi” … but my suspicion is that your game is hogging all or most of your Internet bandwidth thereby either denying anyone else access to the Internet, or slowing them down so much so, that it’s too painful for them to use the web. IT COULD also be a problem with your router, although 99 times out of 100 if a router is going to deny people access to a network, it will deny everyone universally and not allow just one machine and not the others, unless its been configured to give your PS4 priority traffic. Here is what I suggest you do (in this order): 1) Unplug your router (so it turns off) and wait 2 full minutes then plug it back in and see if the problem still happens. If i does then… 2) Reset your router to FACTORY DEFAULTS - the manufacturer should have instructions on their web site showing you how to do this. See if problem still exists. 3) Borrow a router from a friend - a known good working router and try it. If it works, then...

It's a chip that monitors current ... http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ina214....

That is definitely a fault on one of your driver boards ... usually bad capacitors. I would pull the cover off and look for blown caps... when they blow, they usually bulge out the top and sometimes leave a liquid around them ... its not toxic, just messy sometimes.