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How are the leds blinking? Is there a red one? After some years the pump needs some servicing to the lip seal, therefore some water may have entered in the motor. This sounds to me as one of those cases, but I can help you better with some information about the leds. The electronics are very rugged, they outlive by a great margin all the mechanical parts in the pump and motor.
Meer informatieHi @llq , can you check whether the air is coming from the tank or from something in the plumbing before the pump? a 3-way valve, faucet, connection or the filter? The pump shouldn’t have problems priming, the air vent is there to be used only when the gears are completely dry or the pump is very old and the gears are worn out. If you see that the issue is in the filter, unscrew it on both sides and add some teflon tape to the connections. When placing the tape, make sure that no abundance of it makes it way into the pump, because it could be an issue for the check valve (if your pump is electronic). If the issue is in a faucet, connection or three-way valve before the pump, apply the same principle of trying to stop the air from going into the hoses. Some use the “liquid seal” for all the connections, to be sure. Anyway, the air vent cap screw should be a metric M5 (I’m on holiday, if you need to be absolutely sure I have to check), but automating the vent it’s not a real solution, but a workaround :)
Meer informatieHi @grandbanks, bleeding the pump every few days is not normal, you may have a problem somewhere! Please check if: (1) The inlet hose is not “cooked” (old, yellowish and hardened) and, in case, cut a few centimeters (inches) of the part that is over barbed hose fitting. Often, after some time, this hose gets hard and lets the air in, leading to the need to prime again. (2) The inlet hose has a hose clamp to keep it in place on the hose fitting. Failing to do this gives many problems. (3) The filter has the o-ring correctly placed and/or the plastic is not cracked. If the filter lets air in, you may often lose the priming. (4) the filter and fittings are properly screwed to the pump (5) if you have multiple tanks, check that the ball valves on the inlet are not letting air in. You could try to bypass the valve and connect directly to a tank, and see if the pump loses prime again. (6) if you have cleaned the gears and unscrewed the top plate, check that the o-ring that seals the top plate is properly placed....
Meer informatieDear Curtis, the pump can be controlled with PWM, but you may want to check that the EMI filters inside do not interfere with your electronic driver: check with an oscilloscope that the rising edge of every pulse does not ring too much. This happens due to the fact that the motor is “an inductor” and the EMI filter is capacitive: this works perfectly with a steady voltage but resonates with a PWM applied to it. This is not an enormous issue, but it creates a fair amount of electric noise that can be unpleasant for commercial applications, in which you need to respect some standards. For bulk orders it’s possible to order PWM-compatible brush-holders that do not mount the capacitors, but the emi compliance has to be verified by the customer . The switching frequency for the PWM is a compromise between: (1) Audible hiss/whistle of the frequency (higher frequencies are better, less audible) (2) Switching power dissipated at every switch-on switch-off (lower frequencies are better, less switching) (3)...
Meer informatieHi Thomas, spare parts are available for all products on www.marco.it but you need to register to the website to be able to see them. A replacement kit for the UP6 lip seal is available with code R6400094 and costs ~10$ excl. shipping. If the motor is not permanently damaged you can follow the next steps to try to refurbish the pump. You can open the pump using this guide: After this, you have to: (1) Use sand paper on the rotor, to remove the rust. Please keep in mind that if you touch the orange wire inside you would also remove their insulation, permanently damaging the motor. Use a fine grain sandpaper and only work on the external surface, because you need a clear air gap between the rotor and the magnets. Put some WD40 on a piece of paper and clean the rotor with it: it will protect it from rust in the future. Don’t wet it too much, or it will glue all the brushes’ powder in the future. (2) Use the fine grain sandpaper on the collector. Clean it until you see that it’s almost “copper color” again,...
Meer informatieIf you have a way to check the pressure on your system after the pump, you may find that you have a leakage somewhere: this would continuously activate the pump, as soon as the pressure goes under a certain threshold. Have you checked it?
Meer informatieMaybe a late answer, but on their website they sell spare parts, shipping worldwide !
Meer informatieMy MBpro Oct-2014 has an SSD and I noticed the same issue, especially when a computation starts on matlab or when I start a movie... but it does it also when still and idle (less often). The sound is exactly the click that you hear due to the “hard disk initializing “ (classic sound I heard on my old laptop when turning on, a couple of clicks before the speed goes up) but obviously it can’t be that: apart from the fan, everything here is solid state without moving parts. I have two guesses: thermal expansion due to the processor instantaneously warming up (and my sensor having some delay? I monitored it without noticing anything strange) or wrong pwm signal to the fan, that glitches sometimes and stops it in micro-periods. The second hypothesis looks more real, but I don’t know why I started noticing it since Sierra.
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Hi, it's important to check that the gear on the shaft that is moving has the key mounted, otherwise the shaft moves inside the gear and the water does not move.
Please write to support@marco.it posting some pictures of the assembly, so that they can help you better.
You probably need to check:⏎
- if the gears are properly rotating, because you might have lost the key on the motor shaft (open the top plate, remove the gears, one ove the two is the one that has to move with the motor, thanks to a key)
- if the power supply is providing the correct voltage, if it's not, the sensor would blink blue and yellow
- if the brushes in the motors are still there
you can send a video to support@marco.it for proper assitance, though.
Hi, it really depends on the liquid and pressure. The pump can work continuously if the motor, on the back, stays under ~70 Celsius. This is also specified in the manual.
Buongiorno,
se il motore parte (si muove) ma la pompa non muove acqua, sembrerebbe che le manchi la “chiavetta” che trasmette il moto dell’albero all’ingranaggio (passaggio 2 della guida). Nel caso non fosse questo il problema o volesse acquistare una nuova chiavetta, le suggerisco di scrivere a support@marco.it per una gestione diretta del problema con l’azienda e i loro tecnici.
Matteo
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