The problem could be: (1) bad sensor (2) bad ECM (3) bad wiring (4) engine mechanical problem that is fooling the knock sensor It is best to figure out what the actual problem is so you don't waste money on parts you don't need.

For an engine to run it need four things: (1) Fuel - is the engine getting fuel? Is the fuel fresh or is it contaminated? (2) Spark - are the spark plugs firing when the engine is cranked? (3) Compression - Does each cylinder have compression? (4) Timing - all the valves have to open and close at the correct time and the spark plug must fire at the correct time. Check all of these and ask more questions if required.

Failure to cycle Air supply restriction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Check air supply equipment Tool dry, lack of lubrication . . . . . . . . . .Use BOSTITCH Air Tool Lubricant Worn head valve O-rings . . . . . . . . . . . .Replace O-rings Broken cylinder cap spring . . . . . . . . . .Replace cylinder cap spring Head valve stuck in cap . . . . . . . . . . . . .Disassemble/Check/Lubricate

If the "check engine" light is on it would be a good idea to check what codes are present. If you have an AC code that will lead you in the right direction. Even if there are no AC related codes the vehicle may disable the AC for unrelated codes. This is done to encourage the owner to repair a system some people would otherwise ignore. This is becoming more prevalent in newer vehicles. If the AC works but just blows slightly cool air then it's likely low on refrigerant. The system will need to be leak checked and topped up. There may be a trouble code stored without the check engine light illuminated since the AC system is technically non-essential. AC repairs are a real challenge for a novice so you will likely need to take it in for repairs.

Try looking this up on rockauto.com

Check the current draw. If it's high you likely need a new starter. If it's low you have a bad connection.

One or more fasteners are loose or missing. Another possibility is the heat shield is bent reducing the clearance require to prevent a rattle. this should be a quick and easy repair that will cost you less than $100. A third possibility is a broken exhaust hanger that allows the exhaust system to move far enough to contact the heat shield. One more possibility is a broken or wore out engine mount. If engine movement is excessive that may allow the exhaust to contact the heat shield.

Yes, there is a solution if you are taking about through hole components. A surface mount board means there will be no where to mount the switch. Place the switch onto the circuit board and using very thin wire, solder the wire to the switch terminal. Follow the circuit trace to the next solder pad and solder the remaining wire end to this pad. Repeat this procedure for every switch terminal that gets used. Not all the terminals may be used. Make sure you have thin wire (no larger than 22AWG, 30AWG is probably better) thin solder intended for circuit board applications and you have proper soldering skills.

If the refrigerator works but cools insufficiently the cause will almost certainly be low refrigerant level. You need special knowledge and equipment to repair this. Unfortunately, you need to call a repair person to look at it or just replace it.

The electrics will be protected by a current fuse so that is the first place to check. There may be a thermal fuse as well so check for that. The door will have a safety switch you can check. If all of these item are OK it's likely a bad magnetron.