I had this issue with a JBL Speaker. There was some numbers on the ribbon cable itself so I tried them on the internet and had no luck. What I ended up doing was counting the number of pins that were on the ribbon cable I then measured it in (mm). Then for example I went in to google typed ‘6pin 250mm x 20mm ribbon cable' and one poped up so I ordered and it was the correct part and it fit the device perfect and the device powered on. It only cost me like £3 so I didn't mind the risk of ordering it for it to fit or not. Try this your your device and let me know if it worked for you.

Hello sorry to bring some bad news. But in most cases and I would say it will be the same with this model, I do think you are going to have to dive in and open up the unit.

This may not be helpful and I am sorry. I buy multi packs of thermal pads ranging from. 0.5mm, 1.0mm, 1.5mm. as these are most common. I would say it would be either a 1 or 1.5mm thermal pad. I suppose it's narrowed it down a little. If you build it with a 1.0mm and it's over heating and crashing try the 1.5mm as the 0.5mm can make a difference in helping the pads make contact. I just use trial and error for work like this.

All depends how good you are with micro-soldering It is possible and I know of people that can do it but I wouldn't call it a permanent fix as can always break again. Would probably be better changing the full thing.

May be wrong but from what I can tell it looks like a capacitor.

Hi mate the way I would try and fix this issue is by going back to basics. Try putting the old charge port back in the phone with a new battery or try a new charge port with the old battery. Just test each part separately and see which changes your results. If you find that the old battery is working with a new charge port try buying a nother new battery.

Is there a chance somthing has been spilled on the controller. Take it apart and clean all the components that make up the trigger assembly. This maybe the answer to your problem

Have you ever de-scaled the unit. I am thinking there could maybe be some limescale built up on the heating element causing this issue. I am not expert with coffee makers ECT but I could imagine this would be the issue.

Most devices I have repaired once the glue is off it is off and is ment to be replaced every time the device is opened. So from experience I would say no because if there is any adhesive left on the device and you reuse it your screen could fall out and smash resulting in another new screen, due to the adhesive loosing it's stick. Also if your phone is waterproof then most likely the phone will have no resistance to water. So be carefull. Using no adhesive can cause even bigger issues down the line. Hope you manage to get some adhesive soon.

Well there could be a number of issues that could have caused this I will help try to narrow it down for you. Issue 1 Potentially if you have left the battery connected while performing the repair then you could have made a component blow. In this case micro-soldering would be the best way of fixing. Issue 2 While you were performing the LCD replacement when you lifted up your connectors you could have accidentally damaged some of the components by prying on them with out realising some of these parts can be so small you can't really see them by eye this mistake is very common. Issue 3 The LCD you are using could be the issue there maybe something wrong with it from the supplier. If you have a new LCD handy test it with that before hassling your supplier. If you have a digital usb voltage meter connect your phone to it and read the display if your getting a very high reading then chances are you have a short circuit inside this can help you guesstimate the issue without even opening the device.