The thin metal covers are called “emf shields”, I gathered from other posts. I found it was easy to disconnect at the Display as shown in YouTube video I watch. But I have disconnected and connected from mother board and display and each is not too difficult—this being the first time doing such work. The Cable on the right was replaced on my Surface Pro 4 version 1 by LCDOLED Replacement LCD Flex Conversion Cable M1010537-003 for Microsoft Surface Pro 4—see Amazon. This cable is used to connect the LCD touch screen assembly of Microsoft Surface Pro 5 on Surface Pro 4 device. This is effective in avoiding issues such as "flickering" and "ghosting" of the Surface Pro 4 screen known by Microsoft. FYI, The emf shield from the Surface Pro version 1 Display is too small to use with the new upgrade Display.
If you make sure you are separating the glue-tape from the Display and being very careful along the top to only use the guitar pick or other tool between the glue-tape and the Display, the WiFi antennas, camera lens, and flash should not be damaged; else, $28 at Amazon for Interior Trim Wireless WiFi Antennas Connector Flex Cable Module Replacement Compatible with Microsoft (Surface Pro 4 1724 X939879 X939878) was where I ended up.
The reassemble should include re-coupling the heat sink to the chip via thermal paste when a heat sink is used. Also, I found two narrow strips of screen used for the speaker ports which could easily be thrown out with scrapings generated when removing the glue-tape from the case. It has been fun and my very first computer repair job at 62 years old-IFIXIT forum rocks!
I mention here that upon testing I didn’t install heat sink with fan. It didn’t take long for the unit to shut down with what looked like a thermometer icon—never saw that before. I taped on a gel ice pack on back of the case top and slipped another gel pack between stand and backside. I was able to verify everything worked great! Had to transfer over the NTrig board to the Surface Pro 5 Display I am using to avoiding issues such as "flickering" and "ghosting"; Surface Pro 4 version 1 upgrade. I mention here that I used thermal paste to couple heat sink to the chip for have seen several videos not showing this thermal paste coupling step. This Surface Pro 4 runs hot—I even cleaned the fan. The protective thin metal cover from the Surface Pro 4 version 1 display for the LCD touch screen assembly on the Display side is too small to cover the upgraded 40-pin connector area on the Surface Pro 5 Display upgrade. Seems odd that cable didn’t come with a new one since it is sold as a conversion cable-drat!
Keep the glue-tape on the case! Swollen battery pushed Display 1/4” off on the left side so it was easy start for me; however, I did not realize that it makes a difference as to whether the glue-tape is left on the case or Display; the glue-tape was stuck to the Display and the entire left side was free. I used thin guitar pick to continue counter clockwise, no heat applied. When I reached the single small fracture about two inches up the right side, the glass on the Display kind of exploded a bit and tiny glass chards when everywhere including into my hand. I would suggest wearing eye protection like I did:). When I did the top edge, I destroyed the WiFi antennas—-Keep the glue-tape on the case to save the WiFi Antennas! $28 mistake—Amazon Interior Trim Wireless WiFi Antennas Connector Flex Cable Module Replacement Compatible with Microsoft (Surface Pro 4 1724 X939879 X939878) .
1) Surface Pro 4 v1 Display cracked but still working; 2) Battery swollen pushed display away from case 1/4” on left side. When hot, the screen flickered and spots had started to appear. I decided to replace both the display and battery. I had zero experience in this realm of repairing electronics—no PC, Tablet, or Phone repair service would do this job—very sad. Since I had no tools, I found that the Battery replacement I purchased came with tools that worked for taking the Display off—Amazon TsuLin DYNR01 Laptop Battery Compatible with Microsoft Surface Pro 4 1724 12.3 inch Series Tablet G3HTA027H DYNRO1 with Tools Kit 7.5V 38.2Wh 5087mAh. I used a thinner/harder guitar pick. Display was LCDOLED Replacement 12.3 inches 2736x1824 LP123WQ1(SP)(A2) LED LCD Display Touch Screen Digitizer Assembly for Microsoft Surface Pro 5 1796 V1.0 6870S-2403A (with Adhesive); LCDOLED Replacement LCD Flex Conversion Cable M1010537-003 for Microsoft Surface Pro 4.