Good guide - accurate, descriptive and well labelled. Exactly what I've come to expect of ifixit.

I've just completed the repair for a work phone on an SE 2020 with an iPhone 8 screen. I can confirm the screen fits and works fine!

One thing to note - this will break true tone and 3D touch functionality. I'm aware that it's possible to re-enable them with some fancy codework, but I really cannot be bothered for the benefit of retaining a couple of gimmicks.

I cannot account for the new iPhone SE (2022), though it looks like (surprise surprise) it uses much of the same parts.

Sounds like a failure in the voltage supply for the LCD backlight, but is unlikely to warrant a full display assembly replacement. It might be worth taking it to a decent repair shop, as it could mean replacing and soldering small board components in the power supply regulation for the LCD connector.

Am I right in thinking that this imac doesn’t have the same requirement for the sata thermal sensor?

Does it boot into recovery at all?

Try booting into recovery, and also try running diagnostics (hold D at startup). Failing these, try also putting the original RAM back in (could be a dodgy RAM stick).

It shouldn’t need to be brought in - I just installed 2x32GB sticks in an otherwise bone stock from warehouse mac mini. If you check in the memory section of the “about this mac” section, does it show two 16GB sticks in the two slots?

Many thanks - great guide!

Worth noting as well, that there’s potential for the little rubber claspers on the SODIMMs to pull off when the RAM shield is slid off. They’re easy enough to put back in place, but you need to be wary that they have some flimsy little locator pins that need to slide into the SODIMM clip assembly.

You don’t have to take the logic board out to just replace the mechanical HDD, but you do to replace the blade SSD portion of the hybrid drive in the machine.

You can just replace the SATA HDD with a SATA SSD - you’ll just need to split up the hybrid drive first in Terminal (recovery), install macOS on the new drive, and you can optionally rebuild the hybrid drive using the new SSD, or leave the internal blade SSD redundant. Not sure about the comparative performance gain of rebuilding the hybrid drive with the new SATA SSD, and the SATA SSD will be adequately fast for most people, so it’s easiest to just split the drive and leave the blade SSD redundant after the procedure.

Try to see if there’s any way you can reduce the nozzle size of the vacuum cleaner you’re using - this should increase the flow rate, and possibly the amount of force applied over such a small area.

Alternatively, you can use a very very fine needle, bend the end of it, and use it to “hook” the cone. This method is really a last resort, as you want to avoid making even the smallest of holes.

Absolute last resort is replacing the speaker, which if you can find a replacement, should be pretty easy.