Same issue, different results. Help, never have I seen this in 15 years… 2010 MacBook Pro, 2.4ghz C2D, 8 gig ram, (320 original rotational drive) 240 ADATA SSD upgrade attempted, but failed. The ADATA 240 or 480 SATA III is what I use on all my rebuilds, never an issue.. I just put one in a 2008 MacBook and it is lightning fast, as expected. But, this 2010 is about to cause me to lose my last 5 hairs. I formatted it, as normal, and ready to build via my USB with High Sierra natively supported. It goes through the normal steps (language, disk utility, etc.) Then it starts the build to the SSD. It starts to calculate the time to install, 9 minutes, then 45 minutes, then 1 hour 53 minutes, come back in about a half hour it says 7 hours, 23 minutes. WHATTT? Bad comm to the drive = bad cable. But, wait, it works fast and fine on the rotational drive. I order another cable to rule it out. Same exact results, but 9 hours to build a 34 minute system drive. So, I assume I got a bad SSD (although it formats fine in...

You'll need a hardware bypass on the grey screen to permanently disable the GPU. Some software fixes work for a while, but it always comes back. You can even have the GPU reballed and it will work for a while, but overheat again and return. The only "permanent" fix is to jtag the unit using dosdude1's method. Or, you could bypass it using RealMacMod's method. Both are found in Google. I've done several and both involve, either soldering wires to pads to jtag code onto the logic board. Or, software and a jumper cable to bypass and keep the sleep function working. Either way, you're faced with making the system believe that there is no other graphics processor but the onboard intel gpu. It was an Apple recall to replace the Radeon gpu, but even after replacing it, they still eventually failed. I stay clear of that year, but MadMod is only 30 minutes away from me. So, if I do get one in, I let him do it for me for a modest price. You can buy that software on his site, but without the physical bypass, it's...

Replaced Air Card, although it's only offering me Bluetooth, replacing it with a salvage one stopped the issue of constant restart after shutting down. Shuts down properly now, and USB wifi adapter is faster than onboard. Good to go. Thanks, Dan. You always make me look at things and clear my head. Always a great resource. Last thing I would expect. Pass it on…

Nothing worked for me, all I ever get is red light. 2008 15" MBP, I mean I tried everything I read. Wasted an entire day.

I've tried everything in this thread, NOTHING. I have a late 2010 1297 17" MPB. I just replaced they keyboard, because the power button did not work. It works now, but all I get is the fans come on, checks the cd (which has a cd in it now because I tried that method), then I get half of a chime and it immediately shuts down. I've tried every %#*@ thing possible on every site. HELP ME! I'm pulling what's left of my hair out. Any other tricks up your sleeves? Acts like it wants to start, gets the the chime, then just flat out shuts down after it plays half the chime. I'm dying to hear an entire chime again!! Thanks guys.

So, I decide to try the brand new cable that I had tried before with no luck. Before I connected it, I lowered my magnifier light down into the board connector. Lightly went over each line of connectors. Maybe light corrosion? Lightly used a toothbrush to clean connectors, plugged the new cable back in, accept this time, it felt more like a snap then a subtle push. It was connected before, but never really snapped. Put the drive in with the unit on it's side. Put el cap boot disk in, the disk shows up. I changed the date in terminal, so el cap would go. Just a worn corroded connector? I checked it so many times. Just goes to show, never give up and listen to these guys!! Thanks

I fixed it on my own.