If the 2 pins are bent... they are part of the plastic outer door, and the screw likely won't help. might be able to bend the plastic back (may want to warm it up, but plastic does break easily. If you tried to close it too quickly, it may have slid in while you were closing it and it wasn't closed. I have done that, but just doing the flip then slide forward as two separate motions is what I have trained myself to do.

I'm assuming that the cards are correctly and fully seated in their slots (could try with no cards being in the camera to check).

If that's not the case, but still cannot slide the outer part to latch the door closed, it could be dirt or something which is preventing it from moving. It should be able to move a bit in and out, even when open (should need almost no effort to do so).

If it does move, but won't latch, there are 2 tabs on the outside of the door which slide into recesses. Check they are not bent and are lining up, and the recesses are clean too.

There is one screw on the door itself, which holds the 2 parts together. You can remove it to allow the door to move. I haven't tried that, as I haven't had issues with it. I have seen the door assembly available on some sites, so removing the 6 screws and replacing the door assembly is available too.

I had the wifi card mostly loose, so needed to make sure it was seated in the connector when reassembling it.

The silver metal piece slides up (towards the monitor) to unlock the white plastic to lift up

The ribbon cables have latched covers which the catches flip up and release the cables from the motherboard.

I have added the details and pictures... I am not sure if it is repairable, and might be easier to just replace the board. Taking off the back panel will get access to the circuit board.

I could not get my hands on the replacement screen, so haven't cone anything... The circuit board can be accessed by removing the back panel.

A hard part that wasn’t described in the guide was how to get the extremely short connector for the thumbprint reader to reconnect. Ended up needing a flashlight and the tweezers to get it reseated with nearly no spare to get it connected! They really should have made it longer so could connect it easier with a greater separation.

I had a swelled battery, and had a keyboard keycap puller (one of those that look like the H with a longer horizontal, and have 2 sizes of spaces), and wedged it under the bottom of the battery and used a sharpie to keep some pressure on it, and left it for a bit. After 20 mins the battery had partly popped free from the adhesive and was able to separate it the rest of the way. The swelling may have weakened the adhesive already.

I also agree they are sadistic with the adhesive. if they wanted it to stay in while making it, a simple small strip would have been enough! They likely wanted it not to be removeable, to force a new phone!

The 3rd screw is not attached to the the side panel, but is attached to the top. This part of the guide is for removing the side panel, so that screw did not need to be removed. There is another step that is for removing that screw to release the rear panel.

I have edited the step to add that comment.