A few potential reasons: (1) Worn brushes and/or dirty contacts. They conduct just enough to run with no load but under load they are not able to transmit enough electrical current to sustain a strong enough magnetic filed. (2) If you had overheated the router while using it you could have caused thermal breakdown of the motor windings. This would act as micro shunts (shorts) within the motor’s windings that would reduce the magnetic field strength for turning the rotor during load. (3) Another potential cause could be bearing failure. The sideways pressure has worn the bearings to where either the rotor starts rubbing against the stator or the bearings themselves are binding up. (4) Lack of(or old) grease in the bearings. As the bearings get hot from use, lack of lubrication causes the bearings to bind. This will cause bearing failure. The speed controller is only a switch that places the motor’s windings in different configurations. The windings have multiple “legs” and by placing them in series or...

I am not sure of your exact model but if it has hydraulically adjusted valves, they could potentially not be seated all the way when the RPMs increase. This would cause combustion to be forced back out of the carburetor.

I am not a transmission expert but I have been working on vehicles since I was old enough to hand my dad a wrench - 30 + years ago. This sounds like your transmission is going out. Primarily 2nd and 3rd gear. Your gears are not fully seating, the gear that slides on a shaft between 2nd and 3rd that is. Your transmission will need to be rebuilt since metal shavings will ruin the trans lubricating system. The grinding is because the shift from 2nd to 3rd is not fully happening. The increase in RPMs is since the gears do not fully engage the power gear free spins based on motor RPM. With you having the gas pedal pressed for acceleration there is no resistance from gear shifting to keep the motor from obtaining high RPMs. Sorry

Assuming this is a pump is also connected to the motor through a coupling, the pump would not have flooded your home unless: (1) The intake hose came off (or broke) (2) The outlet hose came off (or broke) (3) The shaft seal for the drive connection failed (4) Lastly, the pump housing split or cracked (rare but does happen) Pump failure does not necessarily mean flooding. Other components to check would be any water carrying hose for splits, etc. The connection valve where you would hook up the water from the house. Most are plastic now and over time will crack under strain. ASKO states they use metal when they can but it does not mean everything is. The internal water heater water connections and the heater’s housing. With front-loading washers, the drum seal could fail. The over-fill valve switch, most washers have them and they detect when washing machines are filled to certain water levels, timer-based ones are rarely used anymore. Your ASKO washing machine has one per the users’ manual. "Overflow guard...

I do not know the exact computer you are using but an overview of items to check/try would be (1) Reinstall your keyboard drivers - the exact procedure is different based on operating systems. (2) Some laptops have a way to perform a hardware reset which should reset hardware connections. (3) If this is a laptop… the ribbon from the keyboard to the motherboard may have become pinched and shorted causing crossed signals. This could also happen for keyboards internally.