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Bought a white refurb 3S several months ago and it's been a great mouse so far. However the rubberized finish means it...
Meer informatieFound a Surface Book 2 from the ewaste. I tried plugging in with a type-C charger but it doesn't seem to be drawing any...
Meer informatieI recently found this 2017 Macbook Air someone threw out. I didn't realize how new it was until I saw the manufacture date...
Meer informatieSo the other day I found a 2010 macbook pro 15 someone threw out (they were nice enough to include the OG charger, 16gb of...
Meer informatieHi y’all, Recently I’ve been running into issues with my 2018 MB Pro 13in, touchbar. Whenever I launch any video...
Meer informatieI recently found a 2012 15in Unibody Macbook Pro from an e-waste bin, and managed to fix it back up enough to where I’m...
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Can't really go off of anything without a picture, it sounds like the display went bad. However to eliminate that it's not a software issue, try booting into BIOS and see if you can replicate the problem, as well as another operating system (maybe from a bootable USB) Thankfully the T470 should still have removable bezels for easier display swaps, in the case that it is broken (and I believe the manual covers this)
Meer informatieAlso try booting in target disk mode, even if it's a dGPU issue it should still work, since target disk mode only uses the iGPU
Meer informatieMy Toshiba Portege R30-A did this on the power LED indicator, and the cause was one of the RAM was faulty. Once the stick was replaced the laptop posted. I'm not sure how universal Toshiba's LED codes are like this but maybe give it a try
Meer informatieI’ve replaced my 9575 battery twice and never had the problem. It’s possible that the battery is defective, but first check what the bios reports for the battery status. Also, check your battery charge threshold in either the Dell Power Manager or the bios. Dell allows you to configure custom charging thresholds on your battery (battery only charges below a certain limit, and doesn’t charge above a certain limit), maybe somehow that got activated in some way?
Meer informatieI’m pretty sure for this model you can’t simply replace the keyboard because it’s bolted to the upper chassis, you might need to replace the entire palmrest part. On a side note, next time if the battery needs a replacement, your 2017 model qualifies for the keyboard repair program that Apple has (as long as they’re running it). Whenever they replace they keyboard they also “replace” the battery as well because Apple treats anything that’s part of the palmrest as a single replacement part, which includes the battery. I’m not telling you to purposely break your keyboard to get a free battery replacement, I’m just saying that my 2018 Macbook Pro needed to be repaired under the program because my friend got chalk dust under some of the keys (and subsequently got a new battery)
Meer informatieI have a 2012 MB Air 13 and I replaced the original with an A1496. Considering the fact that the 2011 and the 2012 use the same battery, the A1496 might be a better option.
Meer informatieOkay, not that experienced with the 13in unibody but I’ll give it a shot. (1) Try the usual PRAM and SMC reset, I’d especially try resetting the SMC (2) Maybe the display connector has gotten loose? It’s highly unlikely but it doesn’t hurt to check (3) Try booting with the “no battery installed” option. Since you’ve opened up the laptop, you should be able to just disconnect the battery, but try doing the following with the battery first. (3.1) Unplug everything (3.2) Hold the power button for at least 10 seconds, don’t release (3.3) Keep holding the power button, plug in the charger, then hold the power button for another 10 seconds (3.4) Release the power button, then press the power again like you normally would boot (4) I’ve had to do this for macs without a battery, I think it will also ramp the fans up to 100%, but see if there is a screen.
Meer informatieReplacing it back to the original battery somehow solved this. I don’t know why Apple’s OEM batteries are device specific.
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Does it “flicker”/”spazz out” really weirdly when only on battery power? Try going into the Intel control panel and disabling the “Intel Power Saving Technology”
Make sure you remember to remove the SD card cover before pulling off the back cover
You don’t really need a spudger. A guitar pick or even a flathead screwdriver (if you’re careful) can work, although in my personal experience just being careful while prying it out is perfectly fine. It’s used so you don’t rip off the little plastic clips that hold the bottom chassis together.
watercannons
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