I need a replacement SAB-001 motherboard and iFixit is out of them. Does anybody have a source for good boards,...

Hard to answer without more information, but a go-to answer with T100TAFs is always to check the part number on the ribbon cable. These have shipped with different digitizers for the same model. There is both a black and gold ribbon cable OEM version, then a chinese replica, then a different third party replacement with a diferent part number. You want to match it exactly, including the last 3 characters. The next suggestion I might have is to watch your screw locations. They are actually used to ground the device so if you put a black coated screw where an aluminum screw should be you get grounding issues. When you test it, if it is unresponsive try grounding your other hand to the metal case and then touching it. Sounds crazy but I have seen it behave this way.

I was going to answer this but I saw we already have a guide to this posted. This shows the screw locations and lengths by color. Asus Transformer Book T100TAF Motherboard Replacement

I have to assume that the lack of any response here is due to the same confusion I have. The T100HA comes with Windows 10 64 bit pre-installed, so I am not sure what you mean. There is no actual T100H, even though you can google it and find it, and your model # may say T100H-FU007T or similar. It is still from the series Transformer BOOK T100HA series, and I am quoting a rep from ASUS on that. They have the most awful, confusing, redundant, and misleading system for model numbers in the industry. That said, if you are trying to do a clean install to alleviate the pressure on the low 2GB of RAM, then I would suggest that you have no drivers for your input devices. Try plugging in a regular mouse to the USB port. Then follow this link https://www.asus.com/support/Download/3/... Much of ASUStek's systems are proprietary and I don't think anything will work on a Transformer without at least having ATKACPI installed (Read: AsusTeK Advanced Configuration and Power utility). I would think the touch would work...

See my proposed answer to this question on another thread. How to reset BIOS?

Assuming you are locked out of the OS as well and can not simply use a third party tool or change your date to use a recovery password, then use this method. It is actually easier than hassling with all that IMO. == Using a Backdoor Password == Here is a list of American Megatrends Inc. backdoors. A password in BIOS which always works irrespective of what password you have set in BIOS. Its a master password which is used for testing and troubleshooting purposes. A.M.I. AAAMMMIII AMI?SW AMI_SW AMI BIOS CONDO HEWITT RAND LKWPETER MI Oder PASSWORD This will allow you to bypass the password. For most systems you can get the list for your use by inputting the incorrect password 3 times. You should see a message that reads "System Disabled" followed by a number. Go to BIOS-PW.org and input that number to get the password list for all manufacturers that match that checksum you entered. These will always work as long as the password you put in matches the checksum the system gave you, because that will be the same...

This is another old one but I feel it deserves some clarity. There are many options out there for original Surface RT screen replacement. You can get them in 3 different ways 1: screen/digitizer/glass/mid-frame bezel as an assembly. This is the way Microsoft sold them, and is by far the easiest option. You can get them right here on iFIXIT. 2:Screen/digitizer/glass assembly. A more affordable third party option, available on e-bay or amazon among others. To replace this you will follow the same procedure as you would for a Surface 2 or 1st gen pro. Because ti was not intended to be replaced this way you should be very cautious of the ribbon cables connecting the digitizer. They are very short and easily damaged. 3:Digitizer/glass only. No screen, no frame. THIS IS A TRAP. Not a joke, I mean it. They are on ebay and Amazon also, selling for a low $13 or so. The problem is that to seperate the LCD screen from the digitizer you should really use a heated vacuum machine or you will have to break the old glass...

I know this is really, REALLY old but just in case somebody else ends up here looking for an answer I thought this questions deserved one. On the Surface Pro 3, as in other Surface models, the digitizer comes as an assembly with the screen. They must be replaced together. This is not to be confused with earlier models that also had a separate digitizer BOARD that connected to the main board, that would go out occasionally and also need replacement (Rarely, many of these were replaced for no reason simply because it was the cheaper part). Now, about that assembly I mentioned. You must be sure to purchase the correct version. The early LCDs that were released were faulty and would not run properly on the default resolution. You are looking for a V.1.0 or V.1.1. 99% sure it is a V.1.1. Anything lower than that is going to be a problem. They are a different make and not compatible unless you have a very early release unit. Shop around and pay attention. Not all LCDs are created equal. The same can be said of...