Hi, iv got a MacBook Air 11" (Mid 2011) 820-3024 which will run fine on the charger, but when the charger is unplugged it...

Two weeks ago I replaced the screen on this samsung galaxy s7 for a customer and they have sent me a message today with a...

So iv got a PS3 here with no hdmi output. The port itself looks fine, the pads and pins on the board are fine. The tv...

So iv got an ipad 4 thats had water damage and its stuck in headphone mode. Its not the flex as if I unplug the flex and...

Hi, so as I see the price of the ipad air screens etc is going through the roof, I am now seriously looking into glass...

Have any other repair shops had rogue iphone 7's in that wont accept certain screens or have really bizarre problems ? Iv...

I've got a MacBook Air 13" 1.3 GHz i5 (Mid-2013) I5-4250U I was using it and it turned off on its own. When MagSafe...

So Iv had this twice now in the last three days and its driving me insane. It goes as follows.... Customer drops in a 6s...

Soooo Iv got an iPad Air 2, the screen has been changed along with the home button. I know when you do this you loose...

Iv got an iphone 6 plus in that im rather puzzled with, it came in with no backlight in the top right corner of the...

You really need the board ultrasonically cleaning, what tends to happen is the corrosion gets under the chips where you cant see it, so just cleaning what you can see wont do the job im afraid.

Fixed it !, was a combination of a water damaged dc in board, bad ISL6259 and once I got green light back, bad battery too.

They are soldered into place, so unless you can do logic board repair its not going to be one you can do, as I pretty much guarantee you'll end up pulling pads when you remove the old port from the board. First thing id do is get a microscope or magnifying glass and check you have nothing in the charge port at the back. Then check if you have any broken or bent pins inside the charge port. If the charge port looks ok its unlikely that its the port, its not like the iphone ports that have components on them, the ipad flex is basically just a wire with a plug on the end so not really much that can go wrong with it. If its not the charge port its going to be a component on the motherboard, so you need to speak to someone in your area that does logicboard repairs. The mini 2 does have the same piece of cr*p power management chip the air 1 also has which does suffer from charging problems, so could be fun to fix if thats the case.

This is basically what you re asking, this is what is involved to achieve what you want https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=58-7cg9cYNY

yes you can, they use the same size sim card

If it's making noises but nothing on the screen it's either..... Not plugged in properly Bad screen Blown backlight / LCD driver circuit component. If it's working but rebooting on the Apple logo you've possibly damaged the proximity sensor / front camera flex. Try unplugging the camera flex then plugging in the battery and trying again. If there is no sign of life at all try unplugging the screen etc, then make sure the dock flex is connected to the board, and the battery is connected to the board. Then try plugging the phone, minus the screen into a pc. Make sure the mute switch isn't turned on. Look in iTunes and listen to the phone for any sounds. If you see the phone in iTunes it's fine, so try checking the screen etc. If it's not showing up you need to check the battery cable / connector on the board / charge cable / dock connector / dock etc for damage, if all is good try another battery or test the battery for voltage across the two large pins.

The phone is in dfu mode and not recovery mode. This is why there's no update option. There arnt an awful lot of components that will knock an iPhone into dfu mode, as a board will still happily boot with a lot of the ics installed on the board. My bet is the nand requires reballing by the things you have told us. Other than that the cpu / ram has possibly had it. I'd send it to iPad rehab, sts telecom etc, either of those should be able to sort it. I wouldn't send it to a data recovery company, you need a place that specialises in board repair like the two above suggestions.

There's no danger in using it, the voltages etc inside are low, the only dangerous part is the battery if you go and stab it with a screwdriver when fully charged.

99% sure it's the screen if lifting it up made it work. Where the ribbon is fused to the LCD will have come unbonded.

Fixed !.....so I was dubious about replacing the ic as I know when removing the nand on the iPad 4 you really are playing with fire, as the touch ics are on the back of the board, and get it slightly too hot and you end up reballing all three touch ic's which are a total nightmare because of all the underfill. So I decided to proceed with caution and grind the audio ic off the board instead, slowly working my way down to the pads. I then heatsinked the !&&* out of the three touch ic's on the back of the board with a offcut of alluminium, taped to the board with kapton tape and some flux on the ic's to aid thermal transfer between the ic's and the heatsink. I then fluxed the pads and placed the new chip. I then checked for solder balls under the microscope on the touch ic's and breathed a sigh of relief !. I then tested it and I'm pleased to say it's no longer in headphone mode and audio works fully as expected, so looks like an internal problem to the ic itself as when reading the headphone detect line in...