Did you try Ebay? Not sure, but the battery model may be SP452929SF Might have to order from China.

Jerry's suggestion is valid. Another thing to try is to hold the power button and shut the machine down. Continue to hold the power button down for a half minute or so, even after shutdown. Restart the machine and see if you see the Samsung logo or anything on startup. If you see the Samsung logo on startup, it indicates that your hardware is likely ok, and you are dealing with a software issue. If you see the logo, then it just goes to a black screen, let it sit for a few hours and see if it comes back. I've seen some situations where Windows gets messed up but it "restores" itself after doing some stuff on startup while there is a black screen.

I recently had a problem with a 58" samsung TV that blinked 6 times. I opened it up. All the voltages on the power supply board checked out ok. Turned out that it was the LED backlight strips that had burned out. The LED's on these strips are connected in series. When one burns (open circuit), the rest on the strip won't light. Got some replacement strips, spent a couple hours pulling the TV apart and replacing the strips, put it back together and all is well. I've read that the LED's on these models are prone to burnout when you set the brightness to maximum (20). Turn down the brightness to 15 or 16 and it may prolong the life of the LED backlights on your TV. Be careful when checking the LED connector voltage, it runs at about 300V DC. Sounds high but the LED's are connected in series - 3V each times 14 LED's per strip, times 6 strips = 252V

I rebooted into the Dell Diagnostics and did a full scan of the machine. All tests passed. An Internet search, and search on the Dell site didn't reveal any solution. I went on the Dell support site and found that there was a BIOS update for the machine. It was running A08 I think, and the update was A16. I downloaded and tried to install, but the install failed multiple times as the BIOS update requires a reboot of the machine to install, and it was suffering the boot/clicking problem so the BIOS update was failing. I'm stubborn and persevered, and attempted the BIOS update maybe 20 times or so, then finally once, the machine booted properly and the BIOS update installed. Problem gone after that. I truly believe Dell has a known issue with these and similar model laptops but have not admitted it. There is no "quick" repair to update the BIOS if the machine won't boot properly to install the BIOS update. You just have to be persistent and stubborn and keep trying; hopefully you can get it to boot once...

Maybe pick up a used one listed as "for parts" on ebay to cannibalize to replace the damaged parts on yours?

I agree with Klaus, damage from liquid, or just plain broke. Could be the keyboard itself, or the ribbon cable that connects the keyboard to the motherboard (less likely). Most laptops come apart pretty easily with basic tools and the keyboard can be changed. Check ebay for a new keyboard for your machine. Youtube might have a video on how your specific laptop comes apart. Some older laptops have keyboards that can be removed without pulling the whole laptop apart; there are little clips at the top of the keyboard that can be released with a small flat blade screwdriver, and in some cases a few screws that go through the bottom into the keyboard that hold it in place.

I agree with Klaus, likely a fuel line leak. I live in Northern Ontario Canada, a lot of salt is used on highways here in the winter, which causes big rust issues, especially with brake lines and fuel lines. Get under the car and take a look at the fuel lines that run from the tank to the front of the vehicle, look for wet spots. There are two lines, one is a high pressure line running from the fuel pump on the tank up to the engine, the other is a return line. There is likely a third line running over to an evaporator canister, sometimes near a fenderwell, or sometimes even at the front of the vehicle. If you are not smelling fuel when the vehicle is off and has been parked for a bit, it is likely the high pressure line that is leaking when the fuel is under pressure. If you do see a wet spot, you can likely confirm by having someone turn the key in the ignition to the "run" position (without turning on the vehicle), this will turn the pump on in the tank and pressurize the line, and you might then see...

I'd suspect the driveshaft could be it, seeing you've tried just about everything else. Could be a simple cross bearing/u-joint going bad, or maybe a hangar bearing if you have one.

I've fixed a pile of broken laptop hinges over the years. Typically the hinge is ok, but the plastic it mounts to is broken to pieces. I've rebuilt and fixed the plastic sometimes using epoxy glue, or a hot glue gun, or sometimes superglue mixed with baking soda. The superglue when added to regular baking soda forms a hard substance similar in strength to fibreglass. Google it! In a couple instances things were so badly broken that I had to put a small bolt through the entire case/hinge to hold it all together, a bit extreme but it worked. Whatever you use, be careful and make sure you avoid gluing things that should move. Gluing hinge screws in place might be acceptable if you think you'll never have to remove them. When using epoxy, I typically will glue then use some spring clamps (like strong clothespins) to hold things together and tight for a day or so until the epoxy hardens fully. A hot glue gun sometimes works and is quicker, but might not be as strong.

Since your mouse and keyboard are working in the BIOS screens it tells you it is not a hardware issue. The issue is within Windows, between the bios settings and Windows, or with a driver, etc. You mentioned that you have also tried a USB keyboard/mouse and that did not work. (I assume you used a regular corded mouse and keyboard, not a wireless/bluetooth one). Here are a few things you might try: 1) Go into the BIOS and load the default settings then try to restart the computer. Check to see if the mouse/keyboard are working. 2) If you can - pull the battery out of the machine, pull the power cord, and hold the power button down for a few seconds. Plug the charger in, leave the battery out, and try to start the computer. No luck, repeat but this time try with the battery in. 3) If the battery is not accessible (internal) many machines have a small pinhole “reset” switch on the bottom that disconnects the battery while the switch is pressed. Remove the charger, insert a paper clip end into the pinhole...