This guide will help you replace the hard drive.

  1. Loosen the single Phillips screw in the center of the access door.
    • Loosen the single Phillips screw in the center of the access door.

    • This screw is captive in the access door.

    • Remove the access door from your iMac.

    • The glass panel is fixed onto the front bezel with fourteen magnets around its perimeter.

    • Stick two suction cups to opposing corners of the glass panel.

    • To attach the suction cups we sell, first position the suction cup with the movable handle parallel to the face of the glass panel. While lightly holding the suction cup against the glass, raise the movable handle until it is parallel with the other handle.

    • If your suction cups refuse to stick, try cleaning both the glass panel and the suction cup with a mild solvent such as Windex.

    • Gently pull the glass panel straight up off the iMac.

    • The glass panel has several positioning pins around its perimeter. To avoid shearing these pins off the glass panel, be sure to only pull straight up during removal.

    • Be meticulous about cleaning the LCD and the inside face of the glass panel before reinstallation, as any fingerprints or dust trapped inside will be annoyingly visible when the display is on.

    • Remove the following 12 screws securing the front bezel to the rear case:

      • Eight 13 mm T8 Torx screws

        • Alternatively, you might have six 13 mm and two 25 mm T8 Torx screws

      • Four 25 mm T8 Torx screws

        • Alternatively, you might have two 25 mm (outer) and two 35 mm (inner) T8 Torx screws

    • The front bezel is still attached to the iMac by the microphone cable.

    • Gently lift the front bezel from its top edge off the rear case. It helps to use your thumbs to push down very gently on the corners of the display.

    • Once the top edge of the front bezel has cleared the rear case, rotate the front bezel toward the stand and lift it off the rear case.

    • When reinstalling the front bezel, start at the lower edge and make sure it is flush with the rear case before lowering the top edge onto the iMac.

    • Disconnect the microphone cable connector, removing tape as necessary.

    • For the front bezel to sit properly, be sure to tuck the microphone cable and connector into the void next to the camera board.

    • Disconnect the LCD temperature sensor by pulling the connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • If necessary, de-route the LCD temperature sensor cable from behind the logic board.

    • Remove the two 5.3 mm T6 Torx screws securing the display data cable to the logic board.

    • Disconnect the display data cable connector from its socket on the logic board by pulling the attached plastic tab towards you and away from the iMac.

    • Lay the iMac down on a table before you remove the LCD so that it doesn't fall.

    • Remove the eight 12 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display panel to the rear case.

    • Lift the right side of the display panel a few inches up from the iMac.

      • Do not lift the LCD all the way up; there are still connectors attaching the LCD to the internals.

    • With the LCD lifted, disconnect the LCD cable by pulling down.

    • The LCD cable is attached to the underside of the power supply; be careful where you put your fingers so you don't get zapped by a capacitor.

    • On reassembly, you may find it helpful to remove the power supply, reconnect the LCD power cable, and then reinstall the power supply.

      • Alternatively, the LCD power cable can be disconnected from the LCD, rather than the power supply.

    • Continue to lift the LCD from the right side.

    • Remove the LCD.

    • If necessary, remove the pieces of tape securing the hard drive/optical drive thermal sensor cables to your iMac.

    • Disconnect the hard drive thermal sensor by pulling its connector upwards toward the top of your iMac.

    • When removing this connector, it is helpful use your thumbnails to push the ears on either side of the connector toward the top of your iMac.

    • Pressing the top of the hard drive bracket down to release it from the rear case requires a substantial amount of force. We recommend laying your iMac stand-side down on a table to avoid knocking it over.

    • Press the hard drive bracket down toward the bottom edge of your iMac to free it from the rear case, then rotate the top of the drive toward yourself.

    • Rotate the hard drive toward yourself, then lift it up off its mounting pins.

    • The hard drive is still connected via the SATA cables.

    • When reinstalling your hard drive, be careful not to push the rubber grommets through the openings in the chassis with the lower hard drive pins as retrieving them may require logic board removal.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the SATA power cable connector and the edge of the hard drive.

    • Twist the spudger to separate the connector from the hard drive.

    • Pull the SATA power connector away from the hard drive.

    • Disconnect the SATA data cable by pulling its connector away from the hard drive.

    • Remove the piece of foam tape covering the hard drive thermal sensor.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to lift the thermal sensor lock finger while pulling lightly on the thermal sensor cable.

    • If your thermal sensor seems to be stuck to the face of the hard drive, skip to the next step.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the thermal sensor bracket off the face of the hard drive.

    • If you're replacing your hard drive, transfer this bracket and the thermal sensor to your new hard drive. If the adhesive refuses to stick during reinstallation, apply double-sided tape to the underside of the two flat ears of the thermal sensor bracket.

    • Remove the two T8 Torx screws securing the hard drive bracket to the hard drive.

    • After you remove these two screws, the hard drive bracket will fall away from the hard drive.

    • Don't forget to transfer these to your new hard drive.

    • Remove the two T8 Torx pins from the connector side of your hard drive.

    • Don't forget to transfer these to your new hard drive.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to remove the piece of EMI foam from the underside of your hard drive.

    • Don't forget to transfer this to your new hard drive.

    • If you are installing a new hard drive, we have an OS X install guide to get you up and running.


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

379 andere personen hebben deze handleiding voltooid.

Brittany McCrigler

Lid sinds: 05-03-12

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7.565 handleidingen geschreven

Thank you Brittany for putting together an awesome guide! I was able to swap in a leftover MBA SSD into my 2007 iMac before gifting it to my father-in-law. This iMac was showing its age with Lion installed, mostly due to 2 GB of RAM and a so-so magnetic drive. I was hesitant to gift a hand-me-down with little usable life. Not anymore! I have no doubt that the 5GB of RAM and a super fast SSD breathed another 5+ years of enjoyment into this iMac. Reuse beats recycling! Thank you!

stevejansen - Antwoord

FYI - The iFixit store links for the Torx screwdriver incorrectly displays the security Torx drivers. I had my own set of regular Torx drivers and competed this successfully. I did not find the security (center post) variant of the Torx screwhead anywhere in my iMac.

stevejansen - Antwoord

Security Torx drivers work on both regular Torx and security Torx bits, so we sell the security drivers to keep people from having to buy two tools.

David Hodson -

Excellent guide. The entire process took less than 90 minutes and I was not in a hurry. Everybody told me that the iMacs were designed to be "user-proof" and had to be worked on by qualified technicians. What do they know? Now my computer is back up and running with a 1TB drive and it cost less than $150 - even with shipping costs factored in. Great job guys!!!

ljheppner - Antwoord

The guide was extremely helpful, however, there are a few things that I wanted to mention that might add to the guide:

* Since my work surface was large enough to allow the bezel to sit on a flat surface while working on the CPU, I did not need to disconnect the microphone cable, thus I wasn't required to remove the tape from the plug.

* The iMac I fixed was running for over 4 years, so there was a lot of dust around the fan and stuck to the inside of the bezel. This surprised me. Someone might want to keep a small vacuum handy, or get a can of air. Be warned: This dust will require you to clean the LCD. No getting around it.

* Since I have big fingers, I was finding it almost impossible to reconnect the LCD cable that is underneath the power inverter logic board. So I found it much easier to remove the four screws on that small logic board, lift it up, plug the cable back into the bottom, and reattach the board. Otherwise I would have spent a long time trying to plug the cable.

Thanks again!

Roger Linkenhoker - Antwoord


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