Inleiding
Gebruik deze handleiding om een gebarsten of niet langer goed functionered OLED-scherm van een Samsung Galaxy S7 te vervangen.
Wees je ervan bewust dat de videohandleiding niet overeenkomt met de stap-voor-stap-handleiding hieronder, aangezien het een oudere editie is van de handleiding.
De videohandleiding raadt je aan om de batterij, de SIM-kaarthouder en het moederbord te verwijderen. Dit is niet noodzakelijk maar het maakt het verwarmen van de telefoon wel veiliger. Deze procedure wordt enkel aangeraden als je het scherm en de batterij allebei tegelijk vervangt.
Deze handleiding laat je zien hoe je enkel het scherm vervangt terwijl je het originele frame, het logic board en de batterij op hun plek laat zitten. Let op: sommige vervangende schermen voor deze telefoon worden geleverd in een vooraf geïnstalleerd frame (a.k.a. het chassis), waardoor je genoodzaakt bent om alle onderdelen van je oude telefoon over te zetten en je batterij te vervangen. Zorg dus dat je het juiste vervangende onderdeel hebt voordat je met deze handleiding begint.
Als het frame is gebogen of anderszins beschadigd is, is het belangrijk om deze ook te vervangen. Anders loop je het risico dat je je nieuwe scherm beschadigt omdat het niet op de juiste wijze in het oude frame past.
Het proces waarbij je het scherm van het frame scheidt, leidt meestal tot het kapot maken van het scherm. Volg deze handleiding dus niet als je niet van plan bent ook je scherm te vervangen.
Zorg dat je, als je scherm gebarsten is, oogbescherming draagt en een schermbeschermer of tape gebruikt om het scherm bij elkaar te houden en ervoor te zorgen dat er geen glasscherven gaan rondvliegen.
Wat je nodig hebt
Video overzicht
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Leg een verwarmde iOpener op de lange zijde van de telefoon gedurende ongeveer twee minuten.
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Als de achterste behuizing te warm is om comfortabel aan te raken, druk je een zuignap zo dicht mogelijk bij de verwarmde kant. Vermijd wel de gebogen zijkant.
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Til de zuignap omhoog en steek een openingsplectrum onder de glazen achterkant.
Because of the metal lip around the phone the picks were to thick to get under the glass. Couldn’t get the glue loose enough with the iOpener or the glass lifted high enough with the suction cup despite using a lot of heat and stength on the suction. Ended up having to use a thin piece of metal to get the first separaration. After that the picks are ok to use.
This step is certainly giving me trouble. I don’t have enough hands to be able to both form the space and to insert the pick. In order to even form the space, I need to use the double-sided plastic scraper-thing.
Turns out that three hands was the answer. I had my dad insert the pick while I pried open a gap, and it was smooth sailing from there.
How do you pull on the suction cup? I.e. what's the right technique to pull up the suction cup? Just pulling up is going to lift the entire phone, unless I had some kind of double sided suction cup up keep the phone stuck to the table.
Thank you
I'm going to try it Jerry rig everythings technique. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=kHzmFPoZbC... unfortunately every iFixit video seems to use the clamp which seems like an oversight for a tutorial. But it is not fair for me to be too annoyed since they have really good repair kits and the repair guides are nice.
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Als je je plectrum eenmaal stevig onder het glas hebt weten in te brengen, verwarm je de iOpener nog eens en leg je deze opnieuw op de telefoon om de lijm te verzachten.
Use a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the adhesive to remove the back cover. The Iopener that you heat up with the microwave takes a very long to accomplish the same task.
Keep the heat gun in motion at all times and check the surface temperature of the phone with your hand every few seconds to ensure it does not overheat the plastic and glass and electronics. Use several blue guitar picks to brake the seal of the cover once you have softened the adhesive and popped the seal initially with the suction cups.
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Schuif je plectrum langs de zijkant van de telefoon naar beneden en snijd ondertussen de lijm door.
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Laat je plectrum op z'n plek zitten en pak een tweede plectrum voor het voltooien van de volgende stap. Het laten zitten van je plectrum voorkomt dat de lijm zich opnieuw aan de telefoon gaat hechten.
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Herhaal de vorige stap, waarbij je je telefoon verwarmt en de lijm met je plectrum doorsnijdt, bij de overige drie zijden van de telefoon.
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Laat in iedere kant een plectrum zitten om te voorkomen dat de lijm zich opnieuw kan hechten.
At about this stage, as I was working on the fourth side, the layer of black paint on the inside of the glass started to separate from the glass, near the edge. I may have overheated the phone (I used a heat gun). Most of the paint layer ended up left behind, attached to the body of the phone, as the glass came away - along with the lens covers of the camera and flash. I removed and discarded as much of the paint as I could using tweezers, a spudger, and cautious heating with the heat gun. I hope the back glass will work OK without it; a clear back cover will be a distinctive design feature! If not I’ll have to get a new one. (Note, some battery repair kits from other suppliers such as Amazon include a replacement back glass, which would help with this issue).
Hi Michael,
The glass back would definitely work without the black paint. In fact, there are tutorials online that instruct exactly how to do that in order to have a cool transparent glass back look!
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Als je het oppervlak van het midframe schoonmaakt met isopropylalcohol, zorg er dan voor dat er geen alcohol op de draadloze oplaadspoel komt. De coating van de spoel zal worden aangetast als deze in contact komt met alcohol.
Do not hold the glass as shown. I did that, and the glass cracked when I tried to pull the adhesive because the adhesive was on tight. Always keep the glass down on a flat surface so that you don’t apply any bending forces to it.
I'm sorry to hear that! That's a good suggestion—I'll modify the photo slightly to deter people from holding the glass in the air.
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Verwijder de acht 3.5 mm lange Phillips-schroeven die de NFC-antenne en de oplaadspoelmodule bevestigen.
They made a typo I think its supposed to say 1.5 millimeter instead of 3.5 millimeter.
QA sticker over screw on my model (2018). I advise you delicately remove these with something sharp, from the center of the screw outwards. If you stick the screwdriver straight in, the sticker will jam up in the head of the screw and make it much less likely to get a good grip on the screw as it turns, causing it to slip and strip the screw head.
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Gebruik het platte einde van een spudger om de batterijaansluiting los te koppelen.
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Gebruik het platte einde van een spudger om de scherm- en digitizeraansluiting los te koppelen.
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Verwarm een iOpener en leg deze op de lange zijkant van de telefoon gedurende ongeveer twee minuten.
To me, it seems hard not to damage the screen in the process of the consequtive steps. Tiny shiny shards to vacuum.
I notice in video instructions, removal of battery and motherboard, opening pick inserted from inside out, less or no screen debris caused, but commented is, not to remove the screen unless it is already broken.
STOP. As noted above…Use the Video Method. When I was finally able to begin detaching the screen, the glass separated off, while the screen remained attached. This action sheered of the connection to a front-facing sensor which remained firmly embedded by adhesive to the front glass.
In retrospect, removing the main board, heating and using picks from the back worked with somewhat less effort and better control.
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Als het scherm eenmaal te warm is om aan te raken, druk je een zuignap zo dicht mogelijk bij de verwarmde zijkant van de telefoon.
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Til de zuignap op en steek een openingsplectrum onder de schermmodule.
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Als je je plectrum eenmaal stevig onder het scherm hebt weten te krijgen, verwarm je je iOpener opnieuw en leg je deze nog eens op je telefoon om de lijm onder het scherm verder te verzachten.
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Schuif je plectrum naar beneden langs de zijkant van de telefoon en snijd onderweg alle lijm door die je tegenkomt.
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Zorg dat je je plectrum langzaam naar beneden schuift, zodat de punt van je spudger niet uit de telefoon schiet. Als het schuiven te lastig wordt, verwarm je je iOpener opnieuw en leg je deze nog eens op de telefoon.
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Laat je plectrum zitten en pak een tweede plectrum voor de volgende stap. Het laten zitten van de plectrum voorkomt dat de lijm zich opnieuw aan de telefoon gaat hechten.
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Wrik het scherm omhoog vanaf de kant tegenover de schermkabel zodat de schermkabel kan fungeren als een scharnier bij het openen van de telefoon.
Screen was adhered to underlying frame, around the battery gap. Pry into and heat that adhesive to loosen the screen there. To me, it seems hard not to damage the screen in the process. Tiny shiny shards to vacuum.
I notice in video instructions, removal of battery and motherboard, opening pick inserted from inside out, less or no screen debris caused, but commented is, not to remove the screen unless it is already broken.
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Til het scherm voorzichtig weg van het midframe en trek de schermaansluiting voorzichtig door het gat in het midframe.
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Verwijder het scherm.
Much of the back part of the display was also glued to the chassis on my phone. Be very careful when removing the bottom adhesive around the capacitive buttons - I thought what I was peeling off was glue and adhesive, but in fact they were the buttons themselves. I inadvertently damaged both and rendered them useless.
Hmmm ok… this isn’t what I see. I seem to have peeled off the glass layer from the display itself. I have a silver looking display to yet remove before I see any of the frame or ribbon cable shown in the picture above. And yet there was indeed black adhesive strip that I was peeling away during this process, so I thought I was doing the right thing.
Solved it. I nearly gave up; I had heated it till the frame was almost too hot to touch, not happy with that, as components could be damaged. Also I couldn’t find anywhere to get a spuger or guitar pick into around the edge, it was all too narrow. But eventually I found I could get a guitar pick under the cables at the top of the screen and start peeling from that direction. Also the screen would crack and splinter at this point, so it was important to move slowly and keep the pick flush and not curl it up too much, to crack as little as possible. And of course, minding the part where the cable is connected on the top right. And I covered it in sticky tape because it was splintering everywhere during this process.
They’re not kidding - the screen does not survive removal during this process, so it better already be destroyed when you do. In fact I even had little pieces of “display” still stuck to the adhesive when I was done. A foldable display this ‘aint.
Also I found the best way to clean off the adhesive, every last bit, was to scrape as much as I could off with the guitar pick, then alternate with a cotton swab with rubbing alcohol, a pin to scrape off tiny bits, and a tissue to wipe off loose bits, over and over, to get every last little bit out so the new adhesive will stick cleanly.
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Om je toestel weer in elkaar te zetten, volg je deze instructies in omgekeerde volgorde.
Om je toestel weer in elkaar te zetten, volg je deze instructies in omgekeerde volgorde.
Annuleren: ik heb deze handleiding niet afgemaakt.
185 andere personen hebben deze handleiding voltooid.
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29 opmerkingen
The screen replacement went smooth. I just wish it included the adhesive. I didn't see the note where the adhesive needed to be ordered in addition to the screen. Otherwise everything went well.
Thanks
Samsung s7 ekran değişimi orjinal parça satın aldığınız zaman bu kadar uğraşmanıza gerek yok.
Yapıştırıcı da sadece arka kapağı yapıştırmak için gerekli oluyor
For the price of the screen, I can replace it in a Samsung repair center...
I just need to replace the glass, not all of the AMOLED touch screen... :-( Sorry but this didn't help me.
How much cost u paid to service centre for original display for samsung s7
You can not replace just the glass without special equipment (hot plate, laminator etc.)
I'm wanting to help my friend do this but I don't have a heat gun. Would a blow dryer work to loosen the glue or does it need to be hotter? He got a quote for 200 from a shop to fix it but they said it takes a month…lame! I've replaced screens in many tables and phones and I have all the necessary tools other than the heat gun and the replacement screen components obviously.
@Adam Bacon Heat guns are quite inexpensive. The model she uses in this video runs about $20 or less in most shops. A blow dryer may work, but it’s difficult to say for certain. The adhesive Samsung uses is pretty robust. If you find yourself fixing a lot of devices you should really consider investing in a heat gun.
E West -
I did this repair. A heat gun isn’t really hot enough to remove the screen without destroying it. A hair drying isn’t going to touch the glue.
armand -
Use a hair dryer and a spudger and a iSesamo to pop that bad boy off. No sense in buying a heat gun for one use.
It works great I got my Galaxy S7 apart within a hour using a hair dryer
I just want to add that if you only need to replace the glass, this is not the guide for you, and the difficulty rating is a 10 of 10. What I would do to replace just the front glass, is to avoid all these steps, and remove the glass from the front. Do not attempt to remove the AMOLED screen, it will shatter in the process of removing it. You will notice in this video, the screen shatters in the bottom left of the phone, behind the glass.
The other issue is that the glass is laminated to a filter, which is backwards from many screens, where the LCD panels are laminated to the filter, and the screen floats. When you buy a replacement glass, you will need one that has the laminated filter attached, or you will need to figure out a way to separate the two pieces. (I could not).
armand what did you use to remove the back, i’ve tried the hair dryer with no luck. Thanks;
Maria
I would also like to point out that both the front and back glass are extremely brittle. If you broke your glass, because the phone landed on its side, then check for spurs. The smallest protrusion will shatter the glass while applying pressure to seal the adhesive application. I had the tiniest of a protrusion, and the back glass exploded. Thankfully, those are cheap.
Thank you very much for good instruction
Guide help, the included heat pack did not. I ended up buying a heat gun instead. Took my time instead of rush it like some places do or they would just replace your phone all together, which is not what you paid for really. Def was tedious.
Really a good guide!
Maybe it could be cool if with the display assembly comes also the rear glass.. because there is a very high probability that it will damage quickly (during the opening)
So, for those who are going to repair their Samsung Galaxy S7.. just be careful with the back glass!
Thank you all ;)
where we can find lcd replacement in good price ?
Running into bit of an issue, my screen is broken. At the moment I’m finding ways to turn it back on, restart, hard reset and etc. Nothing that will actually turn it all the way off so I can begin taking off the back panel.
The safest method would probably be to let the battery run down, to ensure it doesn’t turn back on and short-circuit something. Good luck!
Étape 2: Quand la panneau arrière est chaud au toucher, posez une ventouse le plus près possible du bord chauffé de l'iPhone, tout en évitant le bord incurvé.
Cette fiche concerne un Samsung Galaxy S7 ? et vous mentionné un iPhone
Bonjour Fr C !
Un grand merci pour les yeux de lynx et la remarque. J’ai adapté la traduction. N’hésitez pas à corriger directement la prochaine fois que vous remarquez une erreur.
Bonne journée et à bientôt !
well done, easy to do the job.
i used a heat gun instead the iOpener
ultimo99
I had really hard time finding a way to lift the front screen, so I put the flat end of a spudger through display cable opening from the side of the edge and calmly pressed on the screen from underneath.
I bought the complete repair kit since it had the adhesive strips. Didn’t need the tools. It would be good to offer the option of getting the repair kit with adhesive strips but no tools. Replacing the screen itself was pretty straightforward and not particularly difficult. As was stated elsewhere, the real difficulty was with the adhesives. Some more detailed instructions on this would be useful. Seems like there were locations where the adhesive strips overlapped and other places where they left a gap. Finally, I got to ask why Samsung ever did the phone back with the glass? These are so incredibly fragile. I have replaced these on S7s, S7Edges, and S8s. I am an engineer and consider this a real design flaw. Is there an after market back in just plain metal or plastic? Other than that, I love these phones.
English Below
Hallo,
Een paar jaar geleden had ik het scherm laten vervangen van mijn galaxy s7. Nu heeft het scherm lichte waterschade aan de onderkant, (daar is het een beetje beslagen) en de selfiecamera is ook beslagen. Nu werkt alles helemaal prima, alleen soms is mijn scherm zwart, als ik druk op de bovenkant doet het het weer, of soms moet ik een paar keer met mijn telefoon tegen mijn been slaan en doet het het ook weer. Ik denk dat de aansluiting boven een beetje losjes zit. Het touchscreen werkt gewoon terwijl het scherm zwart is. Dus de lichtjes gaan dan soms niet aan. Kan ik dit denk je zelf fixen zonder een nieuw scherm te kopen?
Hi,
A couple years ago I had my screen replaced of my samsung galaxy s7. Now there is some small water damage at the bottom of the screen and the selfiecamera. The screen and camera are still working probably (only the selfie-camera gives vague images). But sometimes the screen is black and when I put pressure on the top of the screen, it is working again. I think it has to do with the connection from the screen to the rest of the phone. The touch screen works when the screen is black. Do you think I can fix this, without buying a new screen?
Suggestions concerning difficulties I encountered.
ad. step 14, insert opening pick down ~30 degrees to go between screen and frame. Parallel to glass went between glass and screen.
ad. step 18, screen was adhered to underlying frame, around the battery gap. Pry into and heat that adhesive to loosen the screen there. To me, it seems hard not to damage the screen in the process. Tiny shiny shards to vacuum.
I notice in video instructions, removal of battery and motherboard, opening pick inserted from inside out, less or no screen debris caused, but commented is, no to remove the screen unless it is already broken.
I used a heat gun and heated it a little too much. The color of the rear glass is just a sticker on a clear cover. Due to this I tore the sticker off. Now the back cover is see through, which isn’t a bad thing but the repair was for a customer.
Kevin Bishop - Antwoord
When using the iOpener, you may need more than 30 seconds, especially in compact or low wattage microwaves. Take this slowly, though, and be extremely careful, as it is easy to overheat your iOpener. Remember, you can always heat it up a tad more, but you cannot undo overheating it.
Jacob Pratt - Antwoord
I used an adjustable heat gun and set it to 400 degrees (F). That was enough to seperate the glass without having to worry about exposure times of the heat. The front of the phone was just fine. Just be ready to use a bunch of picks to slide in between because they will be needed this way.
Ryan Schumerth - Antwoord
I went from the bottom center up, using one ifixit tools, one suction cup and one pick.
Pick just popped in with some minor pressure.
Laid heat pack along base of phone 2 mins first and worked up slowly, rotating picks as I went. Had to heat iopener over several 30 second bursts
Lauren Burt - Antwoord
This is useless because the phone does not recognize the new battery and will behave like on the old one
Search for “battery count xda"
Albert Einstein - Antwoord
That is an interesting discovery! Thanks for pointing it out—I’ll have to look into it.
Even if this is true, replacing the battery should still give restore a significant amount of life, since the max voltage affects a minor amount of the battery’s capacity. If you charge a worn battery and a new battery to the same lower max voltage, the worn battery’s voltage will dip more under use and will be depleted faster.
Arthur Shi -
Thanks for the guide! It helped me replace a friend's battery with no problems!
Darren Crook - Antwoord
I will never replace a screen again, and don’t recommend it. Not for phones nowadays. Once upon a time everything was screwed together, and you might even get the same quality or better screen when buying from eBay. And having the phone repaired was nearly the cost of the phone. Now, it’s the reverse. Removing the glued back and screen and cleaning off all the glue for a clean re-seal is an ordeal that takes multiple hours, AND, often the screen you buy on eBay is NOT OLED, but an LCD, and a blurry one at that. And the local phone repair store will replace the screen with an OLED, reliably, same day turn around, for not much more than the cost of an actual OLED screen, because they have the parts in bulk, and the tools and experience to do it quickly. Never again!
domarius - Antwoord
have you ever had one that just wont open at all? i can not get mine to open to replace the battery i have heated with a heat gun and attached suction cup and it will not lift at all
Carla James - Antwoord
Hi Carla,
I've definitely had that experience before. The adhesive is very strong, and the curved back makes getting the initial seam very difficult. I'd suggest focusing on one small area on the edge. Apply steady force when you pull, and repeat a few times to loosen the adhesive. Eventually it will give and present a small gap.
Arthur Shi -