Inleiding
The heat sink helps keep the processor cool and happy.
Wat je nodig hebt
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Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery and lift the battery out of the computer.
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Remove the four identical Phillips 3.4 mm screws from the memory door. These screws have 4 mm diameter heads rather than the 3 mm heads on the body screws.
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Remove the three Phillips screws in the battery compartment near the latch. Apple was nice enough to tilt these screws at a slight angle to make them easier to remove. On the A1261 these screws have 4 mm diameter heads rather than the 3 mm heads on the body screws.
To Damon - possibly the thread on the bottom of the upper case is obstructed.
I found that I needed to fight the latch magnet with the right-most screw in the photo. The screw was pulled away from the hole so a magnetized screwdriver was not enough to place it. I needed tweezers to hold the screw in place until it bit.
No, these screws won’t bite going back in — struggled for an hour. Lost hope of success.
Case screw holes perfectly lined-up, neatly closed body, screw threads/head are fine (Apple quality screws), perfect screwdriver.
The left one is in, other two simply will not bite whatsoever. Slightly irritating eventually turned to madly infuriating. I have a similar, earlier model and that was smooth to replace these exact, slightly angled screws (so I have experience).
Q: Are the centre and right-hand screws absolutely essential — or can I give up and leave them out?
(By the time you read this, that’s what I’ll have done)(out of sheer frustration)
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Remove the following six screws:
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Two 14.5 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the RAM slot.
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Four 3.4 mm Phillips screws along the hinge.
These instructions are actually wrong. The 14.5 mm screws are for along the hinge, the 2 on either side of the RAM slot are about 10 mm.
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Remove the four 3.4 mm Phillips screws on the port side of the computer.
When reassembling, please be careful not to screw into the wrong spot. I accidentally screwed into the DVI port and it was hard to remove the screw after that. I had to disassemble the whole thing again, only to find that I couldn't remove the screw from within as it was encased. After much scraping and prodding with a sewing needle, I was able to get that screw out. Phew!
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Lift up the back of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case.
Be very careful not to bend the screw tabs on the top case the perimeter screws attach to. Bending them causes them to quickly fatigue and potentially break off. When reassembling the top case, be sure the tabs are all *inside* the case before reseating it. If you get resistance, pull the case back up, check the tabs and reseat the top case again.
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Disconnect the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board.
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Remove the upper case.
Disconnecting this cable is optional, if instead you tip up the top case ~75 degrees, propping it up with something non-metalic (wedged in or by the battery compartment). Unplugging a connector from the main circuit board always carries slight additional risk.
It's not really necessary to disconnect the trackboard/keyboard ribbon cable. You can simply lean the upper case against the LCD.
After having successfully removed/reattached the ribbon cable several times while trying to revive this computer for back-up use the securing/release tabs on the connector broke. The connector then will not hold the cable properly and connecting fails. Tried various methods of propping the cable in the connector to get full contact but eventually all efforts failed, too. Result: essentially a dead motherboard as no replacement for the connector seems available. Sadly, not worth the extra effort to try further repairs.
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Disconnect the orange SuperDrive ribbon cable from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.
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Disconnect the ten indicated connectors from the logic board.
this being one step seems daunting to a first-timer... also, my board looks a little different (macbook pro 17" core 2 duo)
Also - no thermal sensor (step 15) on my macbook pro 17" core 2 duo
The logic board screws can strip very easily. I had 3 do so using a brand new T6 hand screwdriver.
I was able to get them out eventually by pushing a T7 very hard into the grooves and essentially rocking the screw. What I mean is, just trying to get it to make that crack sound that the screw came loose. Pushing hard down and trying to twist just a little, and repeat. Eventually they all cracked loose and came out.
Good luck and be careful. My MBP is able to play Hulu videos now without overheating and stuttering!
How to disconnect the connectors? Slide the metal one on the upper left corner out (to the left) with your fingernails or spudger. Pop the black plastic ones out by gently wedging the spudge under from the wire side. Slide the other plastic connectors out with fingernails on each corner in the direction of the wires.
The most difficult step was to figure out how to disconnect the black plastic connectors without damaging them. I think you should put more information and add pictures for this step.
I tried with one and damaged it. :-(
So I stopped trying with the other until I know how to do it.
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Rotate the large display data cable to the left and disconnect the small right thermal sensor cable beneath.
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Lift up the left side of the logic board and disconnect the multi-colored power connector from the bottom of the board.
Re-assembling the motherboard was quite complicated, because several pieces must fit before it is in position. I did it by putting the right speaker first, then the right side of the motherboard, making sure none of the cables got caught and then with some difficulty connected the board with this cable.
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If the right speaker assembly remains attached to the logic board, hold the logic board with one hand and slide the speaker up slightly to free it from the logic board.
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To properly reassemble your MacBook Pro, you'll have to clean off and replace the thermal compound from the three chips on the underside of the logic board. Use our Applying Thermal Paste Guide to prepare the processor and heat sink surfaces.
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Disconnect the two antenna cables attached to the AirPort Extreme card.
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Remove the two 7.8 mm silver T6 Torx screws from the top left and bottom right corners of the left speaker assembly.
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Remove the five 7.8 mm T6 Torx screws securing the fans to the lower case.
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Lift the heat sink and attached fans out of the computer.
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Now is a good time to lean the fans back and clean out any dust bunnies from the grill. Also clean any dried thermal paste from the heat sink contact pads.
While you have the fan assembly out, flip up each fan and clean any dust bunnies out from the grills by brushing and then blowing them out with sharp breaths. It appears that the only way to thoroughly clean out the dust from the fan grills is to disassemble the parts down to this step!
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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3 opmerkingen
Does anyone know if it is possible to remove and replace the motherboard and heat sink without detaching the heat sink? I sent out my mobo to be reballed and they returned it with a heat sink attached and would not honor their warranty if I separated the two, and they assured me it could be done.
thanks for any help
Sadly that is not possible. In order to remove the Heat Sink, you have to remove the Logic Board first. Also the speaker system and other parts are in between the Heat Sink and the Logic board, and you can't just pop the Heat Sink in with the Logic Board attached due to the port slots on the right side. To be honest with you, the fact that they reballed your board and shipped it with the Heat Sink attached, is very unusual? Especially for this model. It would work for other Logic Boards where the Heat Sink is actually screwed directly onto the Logic Board. If they assured you that it can be done, ask them to show you how to do it.
Thanks a lot for this guide! I used this guide to install new thermal paste. By far one of the more difficult operations i've done so far. My advise is to really take your time for this one and not rush anything at all. This model is now almost 10 years old but it still runs!
Before upgrading to a larger HD, you'll want to "clone" your original HD using the donation-ware program "Carbon Copy Cloner" (http://www.bombich.com/). Put the new HD in an external case; clone the original; test the clone (by starting up with it), then take apart the MacBook to put the new HD in the MacBook, and the original in the external case for use as a backup, etc. (You can't just drag the contents of the original HD to the new HD, and expect it to work; not since the days of OS 9 and before.)
amiller770 - Antwoord
Can I put more than two gigabytes of RAM in?
Noah Nsangou - Antwoord
mine has 2g*2=4 gb ram in. you should be fine
on mac forum it suggested to put 4gb and a 2gb in a1261.
david -
I made the mistake of wanting to do a clean install of OS and start fresh after installing a SSD. Now I can't install most browsers on OSX Leopard. Does anyone know what is the most current version of OS I can put on this system? (disk or download) Can I get to Snow or Lion?
2006 17" MackBook Pro Model#A1151
2.16 GHz Intel Core Duo
Memory: Two 1GB 667 MHz
Hard Drive: Corsair Force GS: SSD 128GB
scannon - Antwoord
You can install OS X 10.7 LION and no later version. Although LION runs ok with 2GB RAM it does help to get 1GB + 2GB = 3GB. Even if you install 2 X 4GB you will only utilize 3GB. Installing a SSD seems to make no difference since the SATA bus is only 1.5GB/s. A good 5400rpm disk is good enough. I even run BootCamp and Windows 7. Works fine. Not fast but fine. My A1212 refuses to die :-)
asle -
There seems to be some discrepancy about whether or not installing a SSD will help. See Phil's earlier comment from October 2015: there, *he* claims that having an SSD increases the load times significantly, (even though -- of course -- 1.5Gbps is not ideal)...
His quotation, (re-)cited integrally:
Just replaced my old HD with a Corsair Force LX SSD (which is SATA 1-3 compatible as required by this model) with success now my old 'outdated' laptop has super fast loading times and is postively flying faster than the speed of 'sound'. Thanks for the guide. Only problem I faced was replacing the top panel which after a few minutes of panic realised the rubber mounted Mic next to the left speaker had risen up when I had removed the top panel so after carefully pushing it back into place the panel fitted back how it should, so beware of this possible problem.
Phil - 10/07/2015
at0gjm -
Bonjour j'ai besoin de cette bactérie que dois-je faire ?
basile kouamé YAO - Antwoord