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Wat je nodig hebt
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Gereedschap gebruikt in deze stap:P5 Pentalobe Screwdriver Retina MacBook Pro and Air$5.99
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Gebruik een P5 Pentalobe-schroevendraaier(bitje) om de tien schroeven die de onderste behuizing bevestigen te verwijderen. Deze hebben de volgende lengtes:
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Twee 9 mm lange schroeven
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Acht 2.6 mm lange schroeven
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Pak de doorzichtige plastic lip vast die aan de batterijaansluiting is bevestigd en trek deze parallel aan het bord ernaast richting de voorkant van de Air weg.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.
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Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.
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While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.
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Remove the I/O board cable.
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Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.
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Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.
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Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:
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One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw
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One 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw
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One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head
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Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case.
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Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.
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Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.
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Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.
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Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.
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Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.
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Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.
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Removing the I/O board will also disconnect the microphone ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.
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6 opmerkingen
I did this as my first DIY repair inside a MacBook. I'm pretty handy, but nothing close to a computer tech. I studied the guide a few times; ordered the Pentalope driver; bought a magnifying hobby light; set up an organized workstation and went to work. I did sweat through several of the cable and ribbon strap removals, but if you take your time and follow the guide it should work. I did find that having a set of precision tweezers and a couple of plastic spudgers was extremely helpful.
My need to attempt this was the result of stupidly spilling a beer all across my keyboard. After drying it out via a fan blowing on it 24/7 for 2 days I decided to crack it open and look for water damage to the LSI's . The area that appeared to be hit the worst was the I/0 board. So I removed it & cleaned with Isopropyl. Afterward, everything fired up and seemed to work fine. Until today. Now the left USB port seems to have died. Probably will replace the board. This guide made it possible. Thanks Jeff and Ifixit.
Very precise guide. I’d say I had this apart, the new board in and put back together in about 30 minutes. like stated above, take your time with some of the more delicate cables and you should be fine. Thanks Jeff.
Thanks, really great to have resources like this available. Only suggestion would be to make the photos a higher resolution so you can zoom in better. Whilst I am fairly handy with this sort of this I managed to replace my I/O board after the old one got killed by a damaged powersupply that developed a short on the DC side.