Inleiding

Use this guide to replace the heat sink.

Be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste before reinstalling your heat sink.

    • Before proceeding, power down your machine. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

    • Remove the following ten screws:

      • Two 9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

      • Eight 2.6 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • The special screwdriver needed to remove the ten 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

    These pentalobe screw sizes can't possibly be right - not even close. Should they perhaps be 0,8 mm and 1,2 mm?

    Rulle Boer - Antwoord

    My Wiha P5 screwdriver was too big for these screws, but my P4 worked fine.

    BrianM -

    The pentalobe screw size is 1.2 mm for Macbook Air.

    Jose Gustavo Abreu Murta -

    The screw sizes refer to the length of the shaft, not the diameter of the head or socket. P5 is the standard pentalobe size for all these screws, regardless of length.

    I agree that the notation is a little confusing. I think it's because, with standard sized hardware like for your house, you have shaft diameter (say 1/8" or 3mm) and shaft length (say 3" or 7.5cm). So we're programmed to think of small numbers like that as diameter. But in this case, they're length.

    budpegasus - Antwoord

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Antwoord

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Antwoord

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Antwoord

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Antwoord

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Antwoord

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Antwoord

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Antwoord

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Antwoord

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Antwoord

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Antwoord

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Antwoord

  1. Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Antwoord

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Antwoord

    • To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery.

    • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

    • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.

    Voeg opmerking toe

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.

    Voeg opmerking toe

    • Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.

    Voeg opmerking toe

    • The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

    • While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Remove the I/O board cable.

    Voeg opmerking toe

    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    I did not find it necessary to loosed the retainer flap, unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket, or remove the fan. After removing the fan screws in Step 9, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

    Michael Kruger - Antwoord

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    • Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.

    Voeg opmerking toe

    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

      • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw

      • One 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

      • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head

    I found it easier to do step 11 before this one.

    maccentric - Antwoord

    During reassembly don’t forget the ribbon cable.

    Rhiannon Orizaga - Antwoord

    • Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case.

    • Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

    It is a lot easier to insert the flat ribbon in its socket before placing the fan back in place. BUT DO NOT YET FLIP BACK the retaining flap, until you have seated and screwed the fan. This way in case you pull on the fan by mistake, the flat ribbon is free to come out, otherwise you may tear it.

    Rany - Antwoord

    I did not find it necessary to remove the fan or unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket. After removing the fan screws, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

    Michael Kruger - Antwoord

    • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

    Voeg opmerking toe

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

    Steps 12 through 16 are not really necessary; you can easily de-route the necessary cables without removing the I/O board. Likewise with reassembly.

    maccentric - Antwoord

    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    When following these steps in the reverse order to reassemble the machine, I found it much easier to insert the ribbon cable before inserting the I/O board into it's place and installing the screw (Step 14). This adds potential for any sudden movement to damage the ribbon cable, so gentle care must be exercised.

    Michael Kruger - Antwoord

    Tried doing both ways when reassembling but the ribbon cable is so crimped that it won’t feed through the socket anymore. Not sure how to get it through else replace cable or run without a microphone.

    Reynold Gonsalves - Antwoord

    • Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

    When following these steps in the reverse order to reassemble the machine, I found it much easier to insert the ribbon cable before inserting the I/O board into it's place and installing the screw (Step 14). This adds potential for any sudden movement to damage the ribbon cable, so gentle care must be exercised.

    Michael Kruger - Antwoord

    I also noticed that the ribbon cable has a “tab” of extra ribbon above it that was hard to see in the pictures.

    Rhiannon Orizaga - Antwoord

    • Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.

    Voeg opmerking toe

    • Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.

    • Removing the I/O board will also disconnect the microphone ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

    I didn't actually need to remove the IO board, it's enough to remove the screw to let it loose. Therefore also step 12 and 13 are useless.

    Emilio - Antwoord

    THANK YOU. Was able to push the camera cable under the io board without removing it.

    samdaman91 -

    • Remove the two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer on the left display hinge to the upper case.

    Voeg opmerking toe

    • Push the antenna cable retainer out of the way and remove the single 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.

    Voeg opmerking toe

    • Remove the four 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

    Voeg opmerking toe

    • If the heat sink seems to be stuck to the logic board after removing all five screws, use a spudger to carefully separate the heat sink from the faces of the CPU and GPU.

    • Remove the heat sink from the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. If you have never applied thermal paste before, we have a guide that makes it easy.

    Voeg opmerking toe

    • When reassembling your device, attach the gasket to the heat sink as shown.

    • The tail of the gasket should fit into the notch in the heat sink, it should not end up underneath the heat sink tab that will rest on the logic board.

    • Be sure the small post molded into the rubber gasket mates with the hole cut into the upper right corner of the logic board.

    Voeg opmerking toe

Conclusie

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

3 andere personen hebben deze handleiding voltooid.

Jeff Suovanen

Lid sinds: 06-08-13

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