Inleiding
Use this guide to replace a worn or unresponsive clicker switch in a Logitech MX Master 3 or MX Master 3S mouse. The clicker switch is a small mechanical component beneath the primary mouse buttons, and it's one of the first parts to wear out with heavy use.
Common symptoms of a failing clicker include: double-clicking when you only press once, clicks that don't register at all, a mushy or inconsistent feel when pressing the button, or a left/right click that feels noticeably different from when the mouse was new. If you're experiencing any of these, a clicker replacement is likely the fix.
Before you begin, be aware of the following hazards:
- Static discharge — The MX Master 3/3S contains sensitive electronics. Work on a non-carpeted surface and consider using an anti-static wrist strap to avoid damaging components.
- Heat — Since the replacement involves soldering, use care around the PCB. Excess heat can lift pads or damage nearby components.
- Small parts — The mouse contains tiny screws and clips that are easy to lose. Work over a tray or mat and keep a container nearby for hardware.
Tools and skills you'll need: This repair requires basic soldering skills — you'll need to desolder the old switch and solder in the replacement. If you've never soldered before, practice on scrap electronics first.
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Using a T4 Torx screwdriver, remove the top screw in the center area below the clicker surfaces.
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Using an opening tool, lift and remove the skate pads.
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Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the screws holding the footing in place.
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Insert a plastic opening tool into the seam between the top shell and the bottom case along the side of the mouse.
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Once all clips are released, carefully lift the top shell, but do not remove it completely yet—internal cables are still attached.
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Support the top shell with one hand so the cable is not strained.
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Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the battery by unscrewing the screws at each corner.
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Remove the mouse wheel by unscrewing the screws from the bracket to the motherboard.
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Remove the screws mounting the motherboard to the mouse bottom shell, and remove the motherboard.
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Release the old clicker/switch by desoldering.
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With the old clicker/switch removed, remember to clean your service area on the motherboard before inserting the replacement clicker/switch.
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Use the soldering iron to solder the clickers securely.
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Reinsert the motherboard into the mouse housing and secure it in place by rescrewing the screws.
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Reseat the mouse wheel removed earlier back onto the motherboard bracket.
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Reinsert the battery and fasten down the corner screws removed previously.
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Reconnect the mouse top shell ribbon. Handle gently to avoid damaging the ribbon connector.
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Screw in each bottom plate screw to secure the device in place.
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Apply mouse skate pads carefully aligned with the cutout. Remove plastic protector covers.
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Power on the mouse and open the Logi Options+ software to confirm it's properly connecting and functioning.
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Vraag FixBot
Your Logitech MX Master 3S is now back in action with a new clicker/switch. The desoldering and resoldering process may take some practice, but the result is a fully restored, responsive mouse.
Before reassembling, test the new switch to ensure proper click registration and smooth operation. If everything feels right, reattach the mouse feet pads and screw everything back together.
Enjoy your refreshed mouse!
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Austin Community College, Team 83-11, Kapoor Spring 2026 Lid van Austin Community College, Team 83-11, Kapoor Spring 2026
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4Gids Commentaar
Thank you for the guide. How is the click profile of the switches compared to the original?
@carlosunch It seems to be close to the original. The replacement switches were meant to be more silent as not to make much noise but it feels very close to the original in my opinion.
Are you sure your mouse is the 'S' version and not the regular 3, as i see some small differences between my 3S and some of your photo's. (.e.g. the extra screw on the bottom, see my previous comment). Furthermore, excellent guide!!!
@chrisn95097 Hi Chris and thanks for the feedback. It's the 3S as can be seen on the step 2 images. The images may not have shown all screws but it's advised to have a narrow enough screwdriver to insert all the way in to unscrew it.
