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Repair guides and support for your Apple Wireless Keyboard. Connect and command your Apple computer wirelessly.

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The battery cap is corroded on. How can it be removed?

I picked up the apple wireless keyboard from a friend who wasn't using it. I went to put batteries in it and found out that it was stuck.

Then I:

  • Tried a basic flathead
  • Tapped around the head with a small hammer to see if it would unseal
  • Attempted a vice and nickel method--I now have a torqued nickel.

So far no direct access method has worked.

I also read the Batteries Corroded & stuck thread n here.. That allowed me to know there was a panel on the back. My KB is a little different, the panel is more in the middle. I opened it up and see there is a battery--so I'm nearly sure it's a corroded battery that has leaked onto the aluminum screw and caused all of this.

Anyone have ideas on how to solve this?

Beantwoord! Bekijk het antwoord Dit probleem heb ik ook

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I tried baking soda, vinegar, boiling water and a heat gun, nothing would budge my stuck Apple Keyboard battery door. I finally got out my dremel tool and made a small 1/4" slit on the underside of the battery compartment by the battery cover. I was able to turn and get the battery cover off at that point.

My AA batteries were stuck at that point but I followed a YouTube video and removed the control board (easy) which allowed me to punch out the batteries.

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Mix up a solution of water and baking soda (about a teaspoon per cup) and apply that with a cotton swab to dissolve the corrosion.

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Except that it's potassium hydroxide, which is a base. Acid would work better. But KOH is also easily dissolvable in water, so this will work... even without the baking soda.

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Run hot water on the metal around the stuck endcap. You are attempting to heat up this area to get the aluminum to expand a bit. Be careful not to get water into the keys. I was able to successfully unscrew a stuck endcap with this technique.

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Didn't work for me. Any other suggestions?

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Needed boiling hot water, but worked perfectly for me. Thanks for posting! Remember to use good quality batteries in the future

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Boiling water worked for me after thinking only failure was possible, I tumped the twist lid to try and loosen then used the boiing water. Then using pliers to hold a coin and turn while holding the keyboard firmly wrapped in my arm. I bent 3 coins before the 4th stronger coin made a tiny movement then it came loose - what a struggle it was. Now I have to get the stuck batteries moving Phew!!!

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Boiling water worked on mine! Thanks!

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Thank you for the information. I finally got to . I used boiling water and the top came right off.

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Thanks for the great info! I was about to take my keyboard into a shop to get fixed but found this thread. I used the water-nickel approach and was able to open the sealed cap in a few minutes (after trying to pry it open for nearly half hour with a screw driver and keys yesterday). Inside was two corrosive 2A’s.

God bless you all. Apple keyboard now back in working condition again.

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Did you use boiling water? how long did you dip or run the water on the keyboard? I tried dipping it in boiling water for about a minute, still unable to open.

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Hi, I used a tea kettle to boil the water and continuously poured it slowly for about 2-3 mins. I kind of tipped the trackpad so the water was running just on the end.

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if u have a cook-top stove turn it on high then set the end of the keyboard on the end to get it hot just a few minutes then try to unscrew it after its hot enough if the slot is all tore up from trying u can drill two holes on either side of the cap and then use two small punches or whatever u have to twist it out…not an easy job but it is doable with a little patients…good luck !!

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Don't use "good quality" batteries. There are no "good quality" alkaline cells. They all leak, giving you what you have here. Get nickel metal-hydride (NiMH) cells and a smart charger. You probably will want high quality low self-discharge NiMH, like the Sanyo (now Panasonic) eneloop. I've used those for the last ten years and have had zero failures.

In principle, NiMH can leak, too, but I've never seen it or heard of anyone who has. I've been using them exclusively for the last 15 years with no damage to equipment, saving a few hundred bucks along the way. I do have a collection of sometimes expensive equipment destroyed by alkalines before I got wise.

There are other advantages, including both cost and performance advantages, from using NiMH, but this one tops the list.

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Andy zal eeuwig dankbaar zijn.
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