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2.3L 4cyl or 3.0L V6, 6th Generation

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1999 Honda accord 4 cylinder 2.3 lx sedan

I have a 1999 Honda accord with the 4 cylinder 2.3 liter I’ve been having problem with it starts up fine and idles fine but when u put it in gear sometime it would lose rpm and drop to 0 and die and and then everytime I stop at a red light it drops rpm’s and dies if u can help me thank you so much figure out what it is

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Hi Gabriel,

First thing to do is scan for trouble codes. All cars since 1996 are required to support the On-Board Diagnostics protocol (OBD-II), which stores diagnostic information on the car's operation. If the fault is serious enough, it will turn on the Check Engine Light (AKA the MIL, or Malfunction Indicator Light), but not all errors do.

In any event, chances are good there's a trouble code stored in your car's computer that may give you a clue as to what's going on with it. You can get a Bluetooth "dongle" that will plug into the car's diagnostic port for under $10 USD that can be used with free apps for your phone, or, at least here in the US, you can take it to most auto parts stores where they will scan the codes for you for free.

I'd suggest getting your codes scanned as the first step, then come back and let us know what you found and we can go from there.

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@michellepetty This sounds rather like a bad Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor, except for the fact that your car doesn't have one. Instead, it has a Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor to tell the engine how much air it's getting.

I haven't worked with MAP sensors to any significant extent, but from my reading you can troubleshoot it in the same way as you would a MAF. Basically, you unplug it and see if the car runs better. When you unplug the sensor, the engine computer can tell it's not getting any readings from it, and falls back on a set of pre-programmed values for the fuel flow. This isn't as accurate as the MAF/MAP, but should allow the car to run fairly normally if the MAF or MAP is malfunctioning.

So the diagnosis is as simple as, unplug it and drive the car. If it works better, replace the MAF or MAP as appropriate. The thing is, a failing MAP sensor may not be bad enough to trigger a trouble code, but it can easily be bad enough to make the car run like crap. If you'd like to learn more, there's a whole page of information all about it with detailed troubleshooting instructions and everything.

Making sense of your sensors: MAP sensor

Given that it looks like your particular sensor is a bit spendy, personally I'd try some of the debugging steps listed before I threw a hundred dollar part at the car in hopes it would fix it, but of course, that's up to you.

I'm not a Honda guy and this is just my best guess, but I'd say it's something worth looking at given that it matches your symptoms; car running awful with no trouble codes. Good luck, and let us know what you find!

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I am currently having the same problem . There are no check engine lights on my dash and no codes are popping up except one..P1380. We have replaced distributor, alternator, battery, multiple sensors , the only things we have not relaced are the fuel pump and EMC. I'm confused and running low on funds but still need my car. Before all these things started happening I was using a fuel shark which was great fo a bit.

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Gabriel Roberts zal eeuwig dankbaar zijn.
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