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Fujifilm X-T10 is a mirrorless digital camera released in 18 May 2015.

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Opties

My X-T10 is dead after charging directly from USB port. Repairable?

My X-T10 is dead after charging directly from USB port. Would it be repairable? Can I replace just the charging board? Or the full motherboard needed to be replaced?

Also the lens that was on the camera is dead along with the camera. Is this normal?

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Do you have a multimeter?

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Yes I do. What to measure?

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@flyingsquirel First, what is the voltage of the battery?

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The voltage measures 7.9V

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X-T10 can’t be charged by USB. USB is for data transfer only.

From manual about USB transfer:

Loss of power during transfer could result in loss of data or damage to the memory card. Insert a fresh or fully-charged battery before connecting the camera.

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Opties

Just an update. I opened up the camera and removed the board. Oh man it is much harder than I thought. You need to remove tons of flex cable and desolder many wires before you can take the board out.

There is a main fuse marked T and another 2 fuses marked O on the back.

I checked all of them and only one on the back that is marked O is blown. I am going to order and replace it and see if it fix my camera.

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Opties

Yet another update.

The camera is working after that fuse was replaced. Man it was muuuuuuuch muuuuuch harder to replace than you may think. The fuse is tiny. I mean tiny tiny. I am going to put in more information hoping that it will help others who has the same problem.

Symptom of that blown fuse. I came across 2 cameras with that blown fuse. One has no display at all and another has display but when you connect the lens, it will not be in focus and after a few seconds turning on the camera, it will say lens error.

For the O fuse, I order from aliexpress. O is 2.5A fuse and the size is 0603.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10050043...

It is very small so you will have a hard time soldering it onto the board. It is located really close to other components.

The trick to put it on properly is:

  • make sure you close all the latch on the back of the PCB for the connectors. If one snap, you are in big trouble. I mean biiiiig trouble.
  • use leaded solder. non leaded one is so much harder to work with
  • put solder on the pads first. However, make sure it is kind of flat so that you can place the fuse on it without sliding to the side.
  • put alcohol around the area. The tension of the alcohol keep the fuse in place. That is the key
  • place the fuse on the pad and align properly. Use heat gun on low speed or work station to heat up the fuse and solders. cover the rest of the area with metal plates if you can. You dont want any other components to move.
  • when you think it is done, stop the heat and use a tweezer to try lifting the fuse. If it moves, they put it back properly and continue. Repeat the process until the whole PCB is lifted instead of the fuse when you lift it. The O fuse is the hardest one of the fuse to replace. For people who never solder before, you dont need to try. You will mess up the board for sure.
  • The original fuse is glued on the PCB, so you need to use some force to remove it.

Hope it helps.

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I know this post is a few months old now but thank you for the detail! I have the same issue and am looking to replace the O fuse as well but am flying blind without any guide. You post at least gives me good insight. If you have any pictures other than that already on ifitit, please let me know. I am keen to know more about disconnecting all the ribbons. I am about to start with the LCD one now but am taking it very slow as to not damage it.

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do you happen to know the specs of the T fuse?

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Did you manage to find an answer for the T fuse spec, I am also needing this.

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theflyingsquirrel zal eeuwig dankbaar zijn.
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