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My Vizio M75-E1 turns on with no backlights

TV turns on, but no visible image on screen. When I do the flashlight test, I can see the menu and move through it. Also, audio, HDMI pass through, ARC, networking/streaming all are working fine so the main board appears to be OK. I am thinking one of the 2 LED driver boards are shot or possibly the power supply board is faulty? Has anyone seen the same situation before?

Thanks in advance!

HW

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Update: I have found a blown capacitor on the power board, C9805. Now checking other surrounding components...

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Replaced capacitor C9805 and TV now works, but bottom half of screen is darker. I suspect the diode D9805 to be faulty. Will change that next to see if it will rectify the issue. After this, I will simply purchase a new power board if they ever come back in stock.

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When I pulled the power board to repair it, I had also removed the LED driver boards to inspect them and had not reconnected the crossover cable between them when Input them back in. Once that cable was reconnected TV now works fine,

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Problem solved and TV is now working perfectly. Removed rear panel. Removed power board. Visually inspected components and found a blown capacitor on at C9805. Replaced it with a 100uf 1KV 10% capacitor like TDK part number CK45-R3AD101K-VRA that cost me 0.38$. My suggestion would be to always start with the power board, inspect and test it then work from there.

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THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU! My TV blew out on Thanksgiving day. I found your post through a Google search, and I have the EXACT same problem at C9805. Capacitor is totally fried: black and basically turned to ash. Obvious smoke/ash on the other parts of the board.

Debating if I should just try to fix the capacitor like you did or just swap the entire board. I've never done any soldering, but if I'm going to wind up replacing the whole board anyway, I figure I might as well try.

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Omg. That fixed it. A 12 cent part saved me $1300 on a new TV. Wow.

After my neighbor and I got the new capacitor soldered in, I reconnected everything and screwed everything back together…but only later realized that I forgot to reconnect the physical buttons. So initially I thought the board was damaged worse than I had thought. But the fact that even the flashlight test wasn’t working for me any longer tipped me off that maybe the physical power button was the issue (and that’s when I remembered I forgot to reconnect the cables to the buttons). I found the remote, threw some batteries in it and…voila…screen powers up as good as new.

Can’t thank you enough, Harold, for documenting this — in detail — over the months that you did.

PS in case anyone else finds this post later…the capacitor that Harold recommends is now obsolete as of December 2022. Use part CC45SL3AD101JYVNA instead. I got it from Arrow, but Mouser, Digi-Key and others seem to stock it too.

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Harold Walker zal eeuwig dankbaar zijn.
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