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Repair guides, troubleshooting information, and service help for refrigerators manufactured by General Electric (GE).

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GE refrigerator side stop cooling after power blackout

I have a GE Refrigerator (Model PZS25KSECFSS). It has digital temperature controls for the freezer and refrigerator side. I had them set to -2F and 36F, After PG&E power shut down both compartments (Freezer & Fresh food) stop cooling. I tried to recycle power several times but did not help. one thing I note that the actual temperature display on the freezer stuck at 0 degree F. I replaced both thermistor sensors on the freezer side but the problem still there. This refrigerator using inverting compressor so it make very little noise but I can feel it vibrates.

I measured voltage at J15 (the voltage feed into compressor inverter board), it is vary between 4-6 V DC when the compressor vibrating.

I measured voltage cross the RED and Black wires, it measure 13.51 V DC

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A power outage or power surge can cause problems. Most appliances will have fuses to protect components. The display will usually have and error appear once the power is back on. This error and how to clear it are explained in your owners manual. If the display isn’t letting you make selections, check your owners manual for clearing error or turning unit on/off. Some have a combination of buttons to push to turn unit on after power failure.

Always unplug the appliance before handling any components.

Most linear compressors have an inverter board that creates up to 300vAC for the compressor. 15vDC is not correct voltage at the compressor. 15vDC would run the fan motors only and wouldn’t be controlled by the inverter. Make sure your on the correct pins when doing your voltage checks. By removing the inverter board, you can inspect both sides for any damaged components. Most components on the board that short will be noticeable.

If you can feel the compressor running, or if your compressor is pulling amps, it should be a little warm but not hot to touch. The condenser coils should be slightly above room tempature. A hot compressor could be running in a vacuum. Cold coils means there is no refrigerant moving in the system, thus, the compressor isn’t compressing.

There are laws that prohibit you from working on the sealed system if you are not certified by the EPA to do so. Refrigerant is a gas that can be deadly if not handled properly.

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Its a GE fridge. The controller likely died from a power surge.

I’ve ordered my 4th GE controller board (WR01F00261) due to yet another power surge death on my 2008 fridge. Doing some forensics tells me the Microchip 8 pin microcontroller
https://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/d...
is partially zapped such that the internal timer works but the A/D watching the temperature monitor thermistor is fried.

My solution for this controller and all other ones
a) Never buy GE
b) I’m adding 2000ohms resistance to the primary winding of the on-board power transformer so the voltage on the secondary side, where all the sensitive electronics are, drops by 10%. A 2K 0.5watt resistor costs 1 cent. You will have to experiment with a resistor value for your board.

I could easily decipher and solve the terrible circuit design IF I had the schematic and parts list. I could program the Microchip PIC micro-controller if I had the schematic and the time but spending 1 cent and no time appeals to me.

GE is profiting from known-bad circuit design but it is shortsighted profiteering. I have an LG fridge from 2003 and it just runs!

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If the panel lights are off , no cooling but interior lights work OK. It is likely a reset issue, particularly if happened after power outage. Unplug foe afew minutes then plug back in. It CAN TAKE UP TO 24 HOURS for it to reset. It waits for a certain level temperature (higher) before resetting. This has happened twice to me in last 4 months on a GE side by side 18 year old refrig.. Just wait for the reset. If interior lights are off also, it could be another issue.

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Long D. zal eeuwig dankbaar zijn.
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