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Released April 2010 / 2.4, 2.53 GHz Core i5 or 2.66 GHz Core i7 Processors

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How to determine compatibility with a 15" MacBook Pro7,1

I am in the process of researching to what extent I can upgrade my Apple Refurbished 15” mid 2010 MacBook Pro with Model Identifier 7,1. My question arises because apparently there is no such thing as a 15” 7,1 model. I am guessing the refurbishment of my machine is the cause of this discrepancy.

Processor: 2.66 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo

Memory: 4 GB 1067 MHz DDR3

OSX 10.6.8

I want to upgrade the OS to the most current possible, the RAM (to the highest possible), and the HD to at least a 1 TB SSD. I also need to replace the battery and possibly the trackpad.

I understand that 15” mid 2010 MBPs only officially support 8 GB RAM; only the 13” models support 16 GB. How do I determine the official capacity of my machine?

When attempting to determine compatibility with an SSD or any other parts, how do I know what will work when my machine falls in between categories? I am only barely computer literate. Is the reason my machine falls between categories because of a difference in the motherboard?

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

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Try this open 'About This Mac' It will also tell you what your system is. Post an snapshot here for us to see too!

You can't fit a 13" logic board in a 15" system so something is not correct here.

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Thanks, Dan - I finally figured out I was just plain wrong... I had it in my mind that my machine was a 15" (I bought it so long ago and just changed my mind along the way) and even measured it diagonally across the screen (like a TV) to see it was exactly 15." Now I know that is not how MBPs are measured, finally checked the dimensions on the Apple spec page. I know there is no such thing as a stupid question, but I feel more than a little stupid for my wrongheadedness with this question. Thanks for taking the time to answer.

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Go here and enter the serial number from the back of your machine to find out exactly what you have:

https://everymac.com/ultimate-mac-lookup...

Apple MacBook Pro "Core 2 Duo" 2.4 13" Mid-2010 Specs

Identifiers: Mid-2010 13" - MC374LL/A - MacBookPro7,1 - A1278 -  2351*

https://everymac.com/systems/apple/macbo...

Pre-Installed MacOS:X 10.6.3 (10D2125)Maximum MacOS:X 10.13.x*

Standard RAM:4 GBMaximum RAM:16 GB*

RAM Type:PC3-8500 DDR3Min. RAM Speed:1066 MHz

Details:Supports 1066 MHz PC3-8500 DDR3 SDRAM.


Serial ATA (3 Gb/s) Use a backward compatible to SATA II drive like the Samsung 860

Replace the hard drive I/R cable with the one from the 2012 if you do indeed have a 13” model.

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Thanks, Mayer! According to everymac.com I have this computer:

https://everymac.com/systems/apple/macbo...

Except that mine is in a 15" body.

The Samsung 860 is the SSD I was looking at. When you say to replace the I/R cable, do you mean truly only if my model is 13" diagonally across the screen? Or do you mean if the guts are the 13" 7,1 model as in the link above?

When I go to replace the battery, do I purchase the battery for the 13" or the 15"? This is where I am confused - is it really just that the inside of the computer is identical to a 13" 7,1 and the body is a 15"?

Thanks again.

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@zeroderivation The 13" 2009-11 has cable issues, along with early run 2012's.

The early cables are rated for SATA II. On top of that, most of them have some performance killing degradation that can't be undone, on top of being limited by the rating. The 15" is less prone (or immune) to this issue, but the old cables are still limited to SATA II and tend to create problems with an SSD. It's still best to replace it.

It's night and day with the new cable on my 13" - I thought my drive was just slow and crappy (Apple factory Toshiba) but it runs just fine with new thermal paste (Artic MX-4) and the 2012 SATA cable. It probably had issues like the rest of them.

If you have this cable (bottom) or this (top) AND it's 13", it's bad and needs to be replaced, like it or not. You need to replace it and add tape in a few places to keep it from wearing out again on the 13".

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Why do you think you have a 15"? Please take the bottom off a shoot a photos of your guts and post it.

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With apologies for my ignorance, I thank you for your help: I am quite simply wrong in asserting I have a 15" machine. Somehow over the years since I bought this computer I "remembered" (read: decided) I had bought a 15" MBP when, in fact, I had bought a 13" MBP. I am sorry if I have wasted your time, but I am grateful to you because it has taken this conversation to force me to correctly identify my machine! I had even gone so far as to measure the screen diagonally (almost exactly 15", but that's not how MBPs are measured, I now know), but last night I finally looked at the spec sheet on Apple.com and learned there is no mystery, this is a 13" mid 2010 MBP7,1.

Now everything is straightforward! And I have double the capacity for RAM I thought I had!

Thanks Mayer and Nick, I also would not have known about the hard drive I/R cable had you not replied.

I hope you all have a wonderful day and run into more awake questions askers in the future!

Warm regards,

Matthew

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@zeroderivation It gets nearly everyone by surprise it seems :P. Don't feel bad. I've posted photos on how to patch it.

When I got mine I already knew it was probably neglected, so it was on the to be addressed list since I got my 13" used.

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When you replace your cable, patch the pain points. If you don’t, the new cables always end up failing the same way. I never had an issue with my 17” 2009, but that’s because those things are so heavy you only move them when you have to.

This is what I do to protect the cable from the optical drive*:

*I’m sure this isn’t needed if you put a optical drive HDD caddy in, but most of these still have the internal optical drive despite the fact they all seem to die in 2-3 years (and as such, a lot of notebooks with a drive that’s dead from day 1 when someone gets it used) - and I’d bet most of them don’t work or have problems with rough insertion/ejection.

For mine, electrical tape or thin double sided with a back that stays with the tape will work. I used double sided because I had some on hand.

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In addition to this, a patch I didn’t show as I did it after the fact is I put kapton tape over the cable AND on the optical drive. It can’t move and it’s protected, so it gives the cable the best odds of not perpetually failing.

The patch @mayer uses (which my fix compliments):

He uses electrical tape by the hard drive area (rough chassis milling tends to kill these) and Kapton tape on the optical drive, along with 3M Extreme mounting tape.

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Thanks, Nick! What do you mean by the "pain points"? I mean, I assume you mean these are the points where the cable is most vulnerable, but the inside of my computer is only slightly more familiar to me than Mars. Is the idea mainly to hold it in place where it might otherwise move?

As for kapton tape - what width tape would you recommend? I am starting from scratch with tools and supplies on this project.

I'm hoping to replace my optical drive in the not so distant future, but it's still working fairly well at this point so it's less of a priority.

Thanks again!

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@zeroderivation Yes. That refers to the points where they tend to fail. I'm on my 2nd unibody Mac so I know them a bit better then you do. Sort of unrelated but the 17" was ahead of its time. I wish they still made the 17" to this day (or at least until 2012).

As far as the Kapton I used, this is the exact listing I got it from. You'll need to use multiple pieces with what I bought, but if you're okay with waiting on China shipping speeds you can get 60mm tape for $9.

Sort of. You can't let it move around because that doesn't help matters but it's mainly to protect the wear spots. Mine is a rough eject failure, but it works otherwise. I just don't trust it to not hold a disk hostage since it's already rough.

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Matthew zal eeuwig dankbaar zijn.
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