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Released April 2010 / 2.4, 2.53 GHz Core i5 or 2.66 GHz Core i7 Processors

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Did putting in a new battery fry a fuse on my 820-2850 Logic Board?

I have a MacBook Pro 15” Mid 2010 (A1286) i7 2.66 GHz, Logic Board 820-2850-A.

I recently replaced the battery (non-Apple authorized), and added RAM memory from 4 to 6GB. It all worked fine for about 24 hours and I shut down normally, and did not try to boot the machine until about 4 days later.

Now, when I press the power button, no display, and no startup chime. I hear the hard drive spin for about 2-3 seconds, then click off (like it sounds when you shut down normally by holding the power button).

I have done a lot of Internet research, and have tried the following:

  • Put the RAM back to the original config. (2 x 2GB original SoDIMMS) tried as many different RAM combination configs as I could
  • Carefully reseated the RAM sticks
  • Removed the new battery, charger still green.
  • Tried again with the OLD, dead Apple battery
  • Tried a different, newer, 85 watt MagSafe Power Adapter

Both my Power Adapters still act normally:

Green light when powered, and Yellow light when charging the new battery)

Tried both SMC and NVRAM resets (since it seems to be a power issue, these resets did not start or complete)

Watched all of Louis Rossman’s videos about problems common to this logic board (ha!)

I ordered the capacitor he recommended to replace and rework (circled in Yellow in the photo). I’m not an advanced Micro-solderer, but thought it might be worth a try (I have not received the parts yet).

While waiting for these parts to arrive, I spotted what I believe to be a very badly burned out yellow or brown fuse less than an inch “West of” the GPU (fans and heat sink being North and RAM slots being South )

I hope you can see the photos I posted.   The “fuse” or part in question is circled in RED.

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If you know the name of that fuse, and how I can buy a replacement to rework it, I would be MOST grateful! It is very possible I will end up sending this old PB15 to Mac heaven!

If you’ve read this far, thanks! I have decided I will really be happy if I can repair it without spending over $100 (or 200 or 300) for a replacement board.

Beantwoord! Bekijk het antwoord Dit probleem heb ik ook

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The component is a capacitor not a fuse.

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Gekozen oplossing

Here’s a better view of the part:

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The Polymer-Tantalum capacitor markings are: 868-16K-001 in a D2E case. Here’s one source Mouser.Com

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Dan, you're the man! Thank you for the detailed info, as well as suggesting a source.

I have a follow up question: When you looked at my photo of the burnt capacitor, did you have a hunch about whether replacing it might work? Or did you spot clues that the damage may have gone further around the board to other parts?

Regardless, I will order this part, and give it a try. I have little to lose.

This is my first question posted on the site, and I got super info fast within 12 hours! I'm hooked!

Thanks again.

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@rondo58 - And it cost you nothing!

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Yes, free is a very fine thing!

Now am learning how to put the numbers you provided me into the search filters on these chip seller's websites.. Please tell me how you think I am doing so far.

You gave me: "Polymer-Tantalum Capacitor," "686-16k-01 D2E case"

"D2E" = case type

"686" = the Panasonic series number? or 68µF?

"16k" = voltage?

"001" = tolerance %? or

My best guess so far from Mouser:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/AVX...

3 options from Digi-key:

https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keyw...

Am I getting warm? Do you think one of these might work for me?

(I found another iFixit post that helped me narrow the search:

The tantalum capacitor is short-circuited and I would like to replace

(My next narrowing step is to find the exact dimensions of a D2 case).

..

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Ron Duer zal eeuwig dankbaar zijn.
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