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Hall Effect / Reed Switch Malfunction

Hi Users.

I just got this Model A1398 EMC 2512 that was supposed to be thrown out, it was a god-send because my early 2008 MBP isn’t really cutting it anymore.

Some liquid was spilled over it some time ago and the SSD and Airport card have been pulled from it, but everything else seems to be working fine except that the screen will frequently (1-2 times per minute on average) go black for couple of seconds and then on again. Using the “ioreg -r -k AppleClamshellState” command I’ve confirmed that when the screen goes black, “AppleClamshellState” switches from No to Yes. The machine also works fine with the Lid closed using en external monitor, further indicating the Hall Sensor as the problem. My first idea was a GPU problem, but using gfxCardStatus I’ve excluded that possibility.

So I want to find a practical solution, I would love to not have to buy a new logic board for it so I’m looking into alternative solutions. If I’m not mistaken, this is the location of the Sensor:

Block Image

I’ve tested taking a magnet close to it for confirmation. It looks like it’s soldered to the motherboard. I don’t currently have the tools to take this machine apart so I can’t take a look myself at this time.

So, my question is threefold:

  • Can I replace the Hall Sensor unit with mediocre soldering skills and a soldering iron?
  • And/or, can I turn off input from the sensor into the OS so that it doesn’t cause this issue?
  • Or, is there some other solution to make the machine usable that I’m not thinking off?

I can’t find any “MBP Retina Hall Sensors” on Ebay so I’m guessing getting one and replacing it won’t be easy.

Beantwoord! Bekijk het antwoord Dit probleem heb ik ook

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I managed to fix the issue (for now) with some help from my brother. There are two visible components on the sensor, a resistor or capacitor and some five legged component labeled “PA3”, I figured that taking one of those off the circuit might disable the sensor while still having it plugged into the socket. So with some help we took the “PA3” out with flux, solder and a soldering iron and made sure there were no shorts on the circuit.

”ioreg -r -k AppleClamshellState” now always indicates that “AppleClamshellState = No”, even with the lid closed. So I can use the machine with the only issue being that I have to manually put it to sleep. Hopefully this solution will not cause any further issues.

Picture below indicates the removed component before removal.

Block Image

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@hregg - So instead of cleaning off the corrosion which is all over the logic board! You messed it up instead!

How about putting the transistor back on and clean your logic board so it works correctly.

Not smart!

door

Well that's an aggressive answer. That is not corrosion, but dust. There wasn't any liquid spilled in this area of the motherboard. I'd have cleaned it off if I had a proper cleaning agent, but I don't.

I'd appreciate having a constructive conversation instead of being shamed for not having as much knowledge as you might have.

door

I also have same issue at Macbook pro 2013. I follow this instruction to disable hall sensor. Now it is ok for me. Thanks you so much for the solution.

door

Thank you! I was worried that disabling part of the sensor would cause it to read the lid as always closed instead of always open. However, after performing this, my lid successfully works as always open.

I got ahold of a used MacBook Pro 15" Mid-2014 A1398 with liquid damage, and managed to clean up everything that was damaged except for this hall effect sensor (reed switch?). I had the same symptoms as you — the system would be working normally, except a few times per minute the display would randomly shut off and the machine go to sleep (unless I mash a key like shift to wake it back up). Additionally, when closing the lid, the Apple logo would rapidly flash on and off, which effectively prevented my laptop from ever successfully sleeping as it would always immediately wake back up because it thought the lid was opened again.

I replaced the battery and power supply to make sure it wasn’t a power delivery issue, and because the battery was worn.

Among other troubleshooting steps, I wrote a simple shell script that repeatedly prints out the state of the clamshell lid until you quit it:

``while true

do

ioreg -r -k AppleClamshellState -d 4 | grep AppleClamshellState | head -1

done``

Running the script with my laptop sitting on the table with the lid open, regardless of whether peripherals were connected, regardless of whether the laptop was plugged into power, looked something like this:

``| "AppleClamshellState" = No

| "AppleClamshellState" = No

| "AppleClamshellState" = No

| "AppleClamshellState" = No

(… after a few seconds)

| "AppleClamshellState" = No

| "AppleClamshellState" = No

| "AppleClamshellState" = Yes

| "AppleClamshellState" = No

| "AppleClamshellState" = No

| "AppleClamshellState" = No

(etc.)``

Sometimes the “Yes”ses would continue for a few seconds at a time, and very rarely it would just be stuck at “Yes” indefinitely (until I performed a hard reset and SMC reset in order to boot back up)

Running the script with the lid closed produced an output like this:

``| "AppleClamshellState" = Yes

| "AppleClamshellState" = Yes

| "AppleClamshellState" = No

| "AppleClamshellState" = Yes

| "AppleClamshellState" = No

| "AppleClamshellState" = Yes

| "AppleClamshellState" = Yes

| "AppleClamshellState" = Yes

| "AppleClamshellState" = No``

Even though we have different models, my sensor seems to be exactly the same part as yours. I think the sensor itself is a BGA mount, which I don't have the tools to desolder, but I was able to successfully remove the 5-pin PA3 transistor using a soldering iron and a blob of solder. Now the lid registers as always open, even when closed, which is a fair tradeoff in my opinion.

Why is this a sufficient solution for me?

Before, I could never let the machine sleep, because it would inevitably wake itself back up. I tried disabling lidwake using:

sudo pmset -a lidwake 0

but the machine would still wake up after no more than a few minutes with the lid closed.

Additionally, MacOS will not boot if the lid is closed!

I thought the laptop was completely broken! But no, sometimes before performing this fix I’d have to plug the mac into a monitor to get it to turn on. A temporary fix for this was to reset the SMC and then immediately try to boot before the lid would (falsely) register as closed.

Another temporary fix, once booted into MacOS, is to just completely disable sleep using the command:

sudo pmset -a disablesleep 1

Although the display will still turn off if the macbook thinks the lid is closed.

I would personally much rather have a laptop that always thinks that it is open (and that I can manually put to sleep) than one that randomly decides when it thinks it is open or closed. I hope that this is helpful for anyone else that has a similar issue!

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This is very helpful!

MacOS will boot with the lid closed, but it has to have power connected, AND a mouse, AND a keyboard, AND an extra monitor. If one it missing it won't do anything.

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There are a few things you could try:

The first is place a magnet over the sensor so its always engaged. That will require you to use the external monitor all of the time.

Replacing the sensor will require finding the sensor from another MacBook Pro as it’s a custom part.

As far as replacing it does require a bit of skill. Maybe you should find someone with the skills and the part to fix it for you.

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Hi Dan, thanks for the reply.

It already works fine with the lid closed connected to an external monitor so a permanent magnet is not necessary.

I see, so I'd have to get it off a damaged logic board. I'll look into that.

I'd love to be able to just turn it off in software, have MacOS not listen for signals from it. I'd have to research a bit (or a lot) do find some way to do that. I know some people have done it by disabling the SMC, but that's usually just for testing since that turns off a lot of features. I wonder if I can only turn off that sensor and/or adjust the values from the sensor to maybe get it working correctly.

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Hreggviður Harðarson zal eeuwig dankbaar zijn.
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