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Information and repair instructions for Hotpoint Refrigerator

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Fridge compartment not cooling.

HotPoint FFFL2000 frost free stand up fridge/freezer.

We bought this second hand and found when we switched it on that the fridge bit doesn't cool things. This was a shame but we already had a small undercounter fridge so we decided we could get by with that as our fridge and the freezer section of the Hotpoint.

We did read online that if this model gets turned off for a while and then gets turned back on, condensation can build in the vents from freezer side to fridge side and block them up as the freezer cools the fridge. So we defrosted the unit for 48 hours and dried any moisture we could find then followed the instruction manual to restart the unit.

For one day we had a fully functioning fridge and freezer. But now just the freezer works again. And with the weather being warmer we've started putting ice cream in there; we've found it freezes soft - regardless of brand. Also not sure if relevant but occasionally it makes a "clok" sound...

We'd really like to get it fixed but can't really afford an engineer at the moment so would like to have a go ourselves if possible. Any suggestions?

Beantwoord! Bekijk het antwoord Dit probleem heb ik ook

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The Evaporator Coils are Frosted Over

If the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is warm and the evaporator coils are frosted over, there may be a defrost system problem. Several times a day the defrost heater assembly turns on for a few minutes to melt away any frost or ice that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly has burned out, or the defrost thermostat or defrost control have failed the frost will build up on the coils and eventually no air will be able to travel through the coils to provide cooling. The most common cause for this condition is a problem with the defrost system.

Evaporator Fan Motor

If the refrigerator freezer is cold but the refrigerator is warm, the evaporator fan motor might have failed. Every refrigerator has a set of coils called an evaporator. These are the coils that get cold. A small fan and motor is mounted near the coils. This fan and motor - called the evaporator fan and motor, draws air over the evaporator coils and circulates it throughout the freezer and refrigerator. If the fan fails, the freezer or refrigerator will get much warmer than usual.

Damper Control Assembly

If the freezer is cold but refrigerator is warm the air damper control might be stuck closed or broken. The air damper control is either an automatic or manually operated door which opens and closes to let more or less cold air into the refrigerator compartment. If it doesn't open properly it won't let enough cold air into the refrigerator. If the evaporator fan is running, the damper door is open and no air is coming out. The evaporator may be frosted up caused by a defrost problem.


If the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is warm the thermistor might be defective. The thermistor is a sensor which monitors the air temperature. It is connected to the control board. If the thermistor is defective the refrigerator does not cool or may cool continuously.

Temperature Control Board

If the refrigerator's freezer is cold but the refrigerator is warm the temperature control board might be defective. The temperature control board provides the voltage to the fan motors and compressor. These boards are often misdiagnosed. Check all other components to be certain this is the cause of the problem.

Defrost Thermostat

If the refrigerator freezer is cold but the refrigerator is warm, the defrost thermostat might be defective. Several times a day the defrost heater turns on for a few minutes to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. In order for this to work, the defrost thermostat has to sense that the coils are cold enough. If the coils are cold enough the defrost heater will turn on. If the thermostat is defective it may not be able to sense the temperature of the coils and then won't turn on the defrost heater. If the defrost heater doesn't turn on, the frost will build up on the coils and eventually no air will be able to travel through the coils to provide cooling to the freezer or refrigerator. The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity. It should have continuity when it reaches the low temperature of its operating range.

Main Control Board

If the refrigerator's freezer is cold but the refrigerator is warm the main control board might be defective. This is not common. The cause of this problem is almost always in the defrost components.

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I am surprised every one missed what could be the obvious problem. There a flap that opens and closes the air vent into the fridge, if that vent is stuck in close position air can never come in the fridge.


@yinkoos Olayinka It's called the Damper Control Assembly


Our fridge went to 72 degrees, over a period of about two hours, stopped there for a while, then went back to normal, 38 degrees. I'm thinking it's some kind of programmed defrost mode. We're monitoring it now, but it seems completely normal. Damper control was open while this was happening.


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Hmm, gets turned off for a while, are we suggesting stuck mechanism here? It is the easiest thing to check and it is by far the most common fault of a frost free system.

If you remove the air vent system on the back wall of the fridge(six screws should remove these,

look at the bottom of that vent assembly, you will see where the air flows into the fridge and there is a motorised flap that opens and closes. it may be stuck in the closed position because fridge has been off for a while just take if of and check if the motor is working, If it is not,nothing you can suggest will make the fridge wok. Replace it with a working one

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Does this apply to hotpoint model 5TF187WP I have removed the inside panel, but cannot see a flap


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Block Image

Block Image

Air can never come into your frost free if this fails. It will block the air flow into the fridge.

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I bought a refrigerator and the freezer works great but the bottom doesn't I don't understand what is going on? I believe it needs a new heater or something and if u break the styrofoam in it then what ???


Hi @ Susan Fuson,

Is it a "brand new" refrigerator or just a new to you i.e. 2nd hand, refrigerator?

If it is brand new, is it still covered by the manufacturer's warranty, (usually 12 months from the date of purchase)?

if so contact them about the problem.

If it is just new to you did the fridge come with some sort of a guarantee from the place of purchase, e.g. 1- 3 months or similar etc?

If it did and it is still within the guarantee period contact the place of purchase.

If it is no longer covered by any sort of warranty or shop guarantee, what is the make and model number of the refrigerator?


I have this exactly problem.

My fridge doesn't cool, the freezer is okay, I removed that air vent part and that valve closes every time I opened the fridge door, I removed it and let the fridge empty with nothing covering that part where the cold air comes. From the freezer, I hear the fan is okay but it blows a very little amount of cold air to the top.

I shut down the freezer for about 6 hours and let it open to unfreeze, not quite sure if it was enough to remove all the ice but I had massive blocks of ice when I did it, and it was supposed to be a no frost fridge.

Now the freezer is okay but the fridge is still warm... I noticed that the compressor ir very very hot but I assume everything is okay since the freezer is fine.

Any hints? I really want to try to fix it by myself first... Need to work for 2 months to get enough money for a new one :(



What is the model number of the fridge?

If there is an ice build up it may be the defrost heater, defrost thermostat. Also the evap fan may be faulty.

Listen for the fan in the freezer compartment when the doors are shut. (both doors) it should stop when a door is opened and start again when it is shut.


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Your freezer freezes because the evaporator is inside the freezer compartment. Check the temperature, is the freezer compartment getting to -18 or the top freezer shelve working properly?

You may need to replace something called defrost thermostat. The thermostat may be broken and no longer reacting to frozen evaporation by switching on so that the heater can operate during the defrost.

The continuity is easy to test. If the defrost thermostat, normally attached to the frozen evaporator to make continuity happen does not show any sign of live, heater will not come on get a technician to replace the defrost thermostat.

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Had a similar problem recently. My freezer worked well but the fridge was not cooling.

I solved the issue by switching off the unit .

Next open the front freezer compartment.

Use a hair dryer to defrost all the ice around the fan unit 10 to 15 mins on n off. I stuck my finger in the gaps to realise Ice was forming inside .

Install the top freezer compartment back and let the fridge cool off futher for 4 hrs or so. The longer the better.

The fridge should start to cool in 1 hour or so soon.

Ice building up in the freezer compartment had caused the fridge to stop cooling.

Another long n easy way out is to switch off the unit to defrost for a day or so. The drain hole could also be ice blocked.

It might work again hopefully after defrosting.. Hope this was helpful.

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Well all the information was helpfull. The bottom Of my Fridge was not cooling.


I turned off my Fridge n opened the Freezer panel n defrosted all the Ice that accumulated in the back panel with a Hair Dryer. After a couple of hours of Dryering I reassembled the panel n waited for an hour for residue ice to melt. WORKED LIKE NEW N BETTER THAN BEFORE. I think I had left the Door slightly opened one day to have caused this problem of Ice formation n leaking n not cooling the bottom of my Fridge.

Hope this helps someone.

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2 compartments, top fridge, bottom freezer. Freezer OK, fridge not. Panel at back of fridge has ice drops on it but too warm, motor running constantly.


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Emily Gallichan zal eeuwig dankbaar zijn.

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