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Released October 24, 2011 / 2.2, 2.4, or 2.5 GHz Quad-core Intel Core i7 Processor

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My MBP won't boot, with horizontal line at apple logo

Hello,

Sorry for my bad english. I'm using MBP unibody late 2011 2,2 ghz. Suddenly my MBP won't boot and horizontal lines appear at apple logo and than freezes with white screen. When I try to wait, my MBP starting to get hot and the fan speed is increasing. I already try the safe mode but it freezes again with blue screen and vertical lines. I also try to boot with recovery hd (holding down option key than choose recovery hd) but it freezes again with white screen. Can anyone identify the problem? Thanks in advance.

(I hope it's not the logic board because it's really-really too expensive for me)

Beantwoord! View the answer Dit probleem heb ik ook

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I have green screen and artifacts on start up . No OS-X on HDD. But when I boot on the windows everything's work fine. MBP A1286.

In windows I see only Nvidia graphics card.

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I had the same issue but just fixed now. My mc pro late 2011 got sudden freeze with vertical lines then shut off by itself. After restarting i see gray horizontal lines w Apple logo, logined w password and went thru process bar then white blank screen,, then after a bit shuts off itself. I tried RAM/PRAM reset, safe mode, recovery mode but nothing changes. I couldn't even get to the disk utility screen.

I saw this YouTube video, pressed alt after restarting to get to hard disk not recovery disk. connected to my WiFi for internet w password. It went thru the same login and everything, then went to blue vertical lines screen this time. Then it restarted by itself. Now the horizontal lines are gone. I went thru login and process bar. This time it went passed to my start up screen. Then restarted by itself. I went thru another boot up but this time all the way to where I got frozen and kicked off. Let it recycle for until get to start up screen. Thank god it isn’t broken.

Hope this helps someone.

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I baked the logic board and it WORKED!!! Update- mine failed again after 3 hrs from initial fix; apple genius told me its dead w video test failed. I had nothing to lose so cleaned the heat sinks on thermal plates and bake the logic board at 375F for 7.5 min. Result? WORKS!!

The fried GPU is due to overheating lead free solder. So new logic board wont solve the basic issue. Baking logic board will reset solder if cracked, new heat sink will keep it cool. I got $10 silver thermal paste w cleanimg solutions. There are tons of tutorials on youtube/online. I forgot to remove my left speaker so it melted but only $10 part. My right speaker fine so it still works!! So dont forget to take the speaker out. Plastic will melt, so not over 400F. Solder melt at 360F so 375F is ideal.

Saved $500 or new laptop. Upon reassembled, the horizontal lines gone, slow but started up all the way where crashed. loud high fan issue - gone. This baking trick is common for gamers who blow up their graphic cards. Please try this!

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Thanks. It worked on my 2011 MacBook and my HP dv7. I baked the motherbords for 8min @ 375F. Waited them to cool of and baked them again for 8 min at 375F!!!!!!!!!! Thank you!!!!!!!

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Wow, im glad to hear someone was saved by baking. I wanted to add comment for another issue someone mentioned above about green screen. I encountered as well after all fixed by baking. I’ve got green flashing neons on my supposedly black part of graphics. The issue was loose graphic cable. Its on the upper right corner with black ribbon & wide flat cable w lever, next to left fan. I prob have not connected it firmly when I reassembled after baking. Disconnect, clean and reconnect. Its delicate piece so be careful. It was all good after that. I read this fix in another ifixit thread and worked.

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Connect to an external monitor. If you see the same lines on that screen it points to a VGU/VGC (logic board) problem. The heat and fans lead me to think this may be what's going on but best to connect to an external monitor to confirm or deny that supposition.

If the external screen looks normal it would point to an internal video chain problem. Run AHT test 2 or 3 times to see what problems it finds. Record any error messages it reports - come back here with them.

If this Answer is helpful please remember to return and mark it Accepted.

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@machead3 : sorry for the late replay. I've tried the external monitor method, and I got the same white screen at the external monitor. And I've tried to reset the ram but nothing happen and I still got the white screen. Is it really the logic board problem?

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That's what it seems to be, unless it's OS corruption of the HD. The only way I know to test that would be to pull the HD and try to boot from another source (optical disk, external or Network drive) If that boot is white screen it confirms logic board and eliminates HD OR, put the HD in an external case and try to boot another Mac from it. If that boot is white screen" it would indicate the HD.

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@machead3 : sorry for another late replay. My internet was down. I've tried the hd method. First I put my MBP internal hd into an external case and I plug it into my MBP and try to boot. Nothing happen. I still got the same white screen. Second I borrow my friend MBP than put her MBP internal hd into an external case and plug it into my MBP and I try to boot. But still the same result. Third I plug my MBP hd to my friend MBP, and everything was fine. No white screen. It can boot.

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Pretty much confirms its graphics/logic board problem. The VGU is soldered to the logic board - so unless you had (spent extra $) to have a professional try to confirm/replace just the VGU a logic board replace (carries a new VGU) would be the DIY repair.

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Aww.... Well, maybe I should start to saving up some money than. :D

Anyway, thank you machead3. Thank you very much for your help. I'll mark this answer accepted. And again thank you. :D

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Hi,

I've just been through the same mess, details description of issue is as follow:

  • Red horizontal lines display right after you startup, it will go on to show you the apple (still in red horizontal lines), then it show the gray screen, and your fans start running like crazy.

If you switch to Windows OS you'll be able to run on safe-mode, and the screen look like... well you know

My conclusion is the RAM, not normal issue, a special RAM issue. I followed these steps and fixed it:

Take out one RAM

  • Reboot on recovery mode, (press and hold: command + R)
  • Then it will display a crappy screen again still the apple sign
  • Then it will turn blue.

Don't panic, shut it down this time do a PRAM reset (press and hole command + option + P + R)

If the RAM you are using is ok, everything should back to normal. If not, then replace it with the one you just took out and do the whole thing again.

I tried command + R alone, and it not work. I then tried PRAM reset (press and hole command + option + P + R) alone, it did not work. Only when I combined them, then it worked!

Also, it you put the faulty RAM in and take it out, even though you are sure the RAM is OK, the problem still exist without doing the process that I just described

Hope this helps, and stop paying Apple for non-sense things.

P/S: I keep wondering why all MacBook's suddenly have the same issue at the similar period. If Apple do this on purpose to make us purchase new stuff?

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Score 13

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I have a late Macbook 2011 and this worked for me, I just happened to run into this solution and found it worked. It was a combination of command+R and removing memory and replacing memory. Very odd problem..... it's clearly something to do with memory and the system getting in an odd state. Running now on the same system.

Great post tulu, wonder how many other Macs would have been solved with this, instead of apple saying your GPU is bad.

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I had to remove one of my RAM's to get back to stability, I clearly had some bad samsung ram. But I had the same exact symptoms.

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Thank you, I might not have followed everything properly, and I didn't touch the RAM, but I was getting a dark , almost black screen, when I re-booted, it had green & pink vertical stripes. I tried the (shift-option-control-power) trick, then reboot, that did nothing. Then I tried your (option -control-R) & finally got the vibrant blue screen, went back to the (option-control-R-P) and it finally came back to life. Thank you again, I don't have the $ for a new computer right now.

I'm thinking this is not a good sign and should start saving and shopping for a new unit. I only have 4 gigs total RAM, maybe I should increase that, it seems easy, though I've never tried to open this computer.

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thanks a lot it worked great for my mac. i'm not sure if i followed the steps precisely but removing the RAM and messing around with it worked magic :)) thanks again

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It fixed for me but came back again on next restart. I have to do it every time when I restarts the machine. My MBP is also restarting anytime now if I leave it in idle state or move it from one place to another.

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I had the same problem on my early 2011 15" Macbook Pro

I solved it by resetting the SMC

Reset the System Management Controller to Fix the Striped Display on Boot

This will dump and reset settings for anything power management related, and is long known to resolve problems with things like fans, heat, sleeping problems, and of course, display issues.

On any modern MacBook Pro or MacBook Air with a built-in battery, which is just a bout all of them nowadays, this is how you do that:

Shut down the Mac and connect it to your MagSafe adapter and a wall outlet as usual

Hold down the Shift+Control+Option+Power button at the same time for a few seconds

Release all keys at the same time, then boot the Mac as usual

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Score 5

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This fixed the problem on my Macbook Pro 15" early 2011, thank you!!!

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The problem with the stripes came back and after trying all these tricks the computer doesn't boot and the screen now shows Apple logo on a gray background and then turns to a blank gray.

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THANK YOU! Fixed my 17" MacBook Pro (late 2011 or 2012)!

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All repair stores said to get a new computer but I decided to take a few hours of my day out and try everything I could. In the end, I reset the SMC and it fixed all the issues. Thank you. (Macbook Pro 2012)

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thank u sooo much!!!

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The 2011 15inch has bad GPU/South bridge issues. Apple warranties these items free of charge.

Contact apple or go to your nearest authorized dealer. Tell them you have been having artifacts on the screen and lines.

That it has started showing a pink hue and no longer boots.

You should be able to have it fixed for free.

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After receiving the new battery the issue persists. Then i found this link https://www.apple.com/support/macbookpro..., apparently there is a known video issue for 15-inch and 17-inch MacBook Pro models manufactured in 2011 and 15-inch MacBook Pro with Retina models manufactured from Mid 2012 to Early 2013.

You can check in the link if your macbook is under the repair extension program and they would fix it for free. Mine does.

Update: The program has ended now

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Xavier, Your link to the known issue saved my life!! I thought my MBP 17 " was toast but I found your link, followed it, printed it out and took it to the Apple store and they agreed that it was covered under the program and that it was a known issue. If it hadn't been for you, I'd still be scratching my head with a dead Mac.

--Klaus

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Hi @vondohlen I'm glad that it helped you.

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I had a similar issue where a 2011 Macbook Pro 8.2 would restart on its own. This was taken in 2013, and repair was done. I assume that the logic board was replaced. This issue cropped up again where the computer would shut off intermittently. Had random issues recently where the blue tooth stopped working, and then started after replugging the cable.

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Had a dramatic problem where the MBP would start up, having bluish line on the apple logo then would enter a gray or blue screen. Was able to boot Cmd-S, Cmd-R, but always after they started to load up went back to gray or blue screen. Did SMC reset, Pram reset, replaced RAM chips, nothing worked. Finally wrapped the MBP in a blanket and left it on so it would overheat and shut off. As soon as it shut off I repeated again, then the boot up screen appeared fine. Did another reboot and the computer seems all fine. In a working state after overnight and being attached to external thunderbolt display. Have it running on a flat desktop and is running cool. I guess the heat was able to melt the appropriate connectors and now it has resent the GPU as working. Not sure how long this will last.

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Following the Link shows that only the 15" Models are covered and not my 2011 Late 17"

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I also faced this problem yesterday. Horizontal lines over logo, Doesn't boot no matter what i tried

PRAM Reset, SMC Reset, Verbose mode, Safe boot - none worked

My friend had a look and said that he will try to save it.

He tried a process which he called "reflow" the gpu, i think.

Basically the Derived graphics card in my mac has stopped working he claimed and using a box like device he heated it up to the right temperature and this melt the led and made it connect properly and the laptop booted just fine :D

After this, I just started gfx card status and made sure that my laptop will only use my Integrated Intel HD graphics as a precaution and prevented automatic switching. Its been working fine till now

Hope this helps someone else If they have a problem

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I had this problem as well,conducted all types of test to include internal hardware.

I noticed that my power cable was slightly damaged at which I had it repaired but I continue to have the same problem so I decided to replace the original 85 watts power cable (from Amazon).

Since the replacement of my power cable I've had zero problems.

Check your cables for damages

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I seem to have the same problem on my MacBook Pro Late 2012 15 Inch. I am unsure of what the problem could be. Because the laptop will turn on displaying horizontal green lines across the screen. Then show the loggin with a white background and the green lines. And once I add my information to log in it'll show a loading bar stop half way through. And restart turning it's self off and back on again. If anyone knows how to fix this please contact me back

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Also I've tried almost everything on here that involved resetting something. Like the SMC PMC all those things. And none of them seem to have worked at all

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I seemed to have gotten the model of the laptop wrong. According to a MacBook idenifer I have used it is a early 2011 MacBook Pro

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I also have this issue. My MacBook Pro (early or late 2011) 15". Sorry I can't tell you for sure as it won't boot up. It does the same thing as Jeyven Sean. Originally, I got a lot of tiling, appeared to fix itself and within minutes it turned black like going into sleep mode. I did a hard boot, then got a gray screen with the Apple symbol with lines that were uneven. It has a "loading" line under the Apple but only gets about ⅔ of the way, stalls, then goes full gray with no lines for a time, then reboots. I hear it booting up, but it keeps doing the same thing. I have tried the Cmd-S until it said 'hard drive appears to be ok.' Same thing. Then I tried the Cmd-R, Ctl-Opt-P-R-power, and Ctl-Opt-R to no avail. Does anyone have any suggestions? I certainly can't afford to take it to Apple. :)

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Hi I know I'm a little late to the party, but I had this problem, found this thread, and ultimately solved my issue. The root cause for me was a POS (Piece of ...) Radeon display controller. Google "radeongate."

Late 2011 MBP. 15". I took it to the Apple store. They ran a diagnostic. Told me that my video chip was dead and I needed to a new system control board. "Unfortunately, we no longer carry those..." Ebay: $450. Screw that.

I was just about to bake my system control board in the oven when I did a verbose boot and googled some of the messages I saw. I ended up finding realmacmods. This process worked for me when all the PMC PRAM etc wouldn't. https://realmacmods.com/macbook-2011-rad...

At the bottom of that link is a permanent (disconnect a component from the board) solution that I may do if upgrades start failing.

Good luck.

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How about fixing the problem so you can still use the GPU? Many people have found the failing tantalum capacitor in the switch logic is the root issue not the GPU its self! (Grey screen/black screen).

I would first try that then disable the GPU as a last resort.

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Just to be clear on that one, the Tantalum Cap issue is only for the Nvidia models.

- Real Mac Mods

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Hi, sorry my response isn't completely accurate. I copied the wrong link. (Sorry Real Mac Mods - you were my last resort and I didn't have to try it.) When I try to update my original post with the instructions I used, I get flagged as spam.

Here's what I did: I manually turned off the video card drivers, and that's been working for about a month. You should be able to find instructions to do so by searching stack exchange for radeongate.

I apologize that my original post is not accurate.

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Hey Judd, not sure what you mean exactly. Your post looks fine to me. Anyway, glad to hear you got it going. Excellent computers if only they would keep the bottom shelf AMD and Nvidia chips in the garbage where they belong ;)

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Is there anybody in Switzerland who can do this mod for me? I have exactly the same issues.

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This problem just surfaced on my Late 2011 MacBook Pro 15" with Nvidia card.

Just wanted to ask about the Hardware mod mentioned on the Real Mac Mods website. Is it necessary? Is it only to avoid problems after your reset SMC and/or NVRAM?

If you do the rest of the software mods (booting from Linux, etc.), will that work alone?

Many thanks.

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RMM method is not applicable to Nvidia models. That being said if you have a Late 2011 with Nvidia, you have something special. Nvidia was the 2010's. Can you provide a serial number for reference? Most importantly, what issue are you having?

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It's a late 2011 15" with the high resolution matte screen. Nothing special about it. Except that it doesn't work. Has the video problems that many others have described.

I don't use it for heavy graphics work so I'd like to try the fix people mentioned.

Will the software fix solve the problem without doing the hardware fix? What are the risks of not doing the hardware fix?

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Yes, it will work in most cases with just the RMM utility. There have been cases where the damage to GPU is so advanced that just disabling in EFI is not sufficient. No risk in not doing it, but if you run the tool and still have issues, the resistor removal will be required. Nothing to lose by trying.

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For those of you that have narrowed your issue down to the graphics card, there is an easy way to fix it (at least temporarily). Lots of people have had success “baking” their logic boards in the oven, but it’s a risky, time consuming process to strip the board bare and toss it in the oven.

The reason baking the card in the oven works is because it allows the solder on the board to “reflow”, thus re-establishing the bad connection that was causing issues in the first place. This technique reportedly solves the issue for ~1 month before the process needs to be repeated. Trust me, it doesn’t take long to become tired of that process.

The following technique can be completed in about 15 minutes total, and doesn’t require you to disassemble the entire logic board. It can also be repeated as needed if the issues pop up again. Instructions are:

  1. Turn off and unplug your MacBook. Remove the screws on the bottom of your MacBook and remove the cover.
  2. Inside, you’ll see two fans, each with a small wire that clips onto the logic board. Gently lift the clip that connects each fan to the logic board. In total, you’ll be un-clipping two wires (one on each fan).
  3. Put the bottom cover back in place (don’t screw it back on yet) and turn your MacBook on. Let it run for 10 minutes (exactly). Don’t leave your MacBook unattended during this ten minute period.
  4. After 10 minutes, turn off the MacBook and let it cool down. Take the bottom cover off and plug the fans back in (they clip DOWN, kind of like a snap). Return the the bottom cover and screw it back in.
  5. Enjoy your now working MacBook. Repeat as necessary.

This method essentially “reflows” the solder without a complete disassembly or the use of an oven. Remember, don’t leave the laptop unattended after the fans are unplugged.

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Yeah, dont do this. Solder has absolutely nothing to do with the problem. It is an internal chip defect. This "fix" will last between 30 days and 6 months. MacBook will thermal shutdown at 100C solder melts at 200ish C. You are not melting solder.

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