Na iedere tablet-demontage beoordelen we de repareerbaarheid van het toestel. Een score van nul betekent dat het niet-repareerbaar is, terwijl een tien betekent dat het makkelijk repareerbaar is. Wij vinden dat elk toestel lang mee moet gaan en dat als jij het hebt gekocht, je het ook moet kunnen repareren. Zorg dus dat je een repareerbare tablet koopt.
Hoe we tablets beoordelen
We willen allemaal dat onze toestellen makkelijker te repareren zijn—repareerbaarheid staat namelijk synoniem voor duurzaamheid. Hoewel we graag willen dat alle toestellen een tien kunnen krijgen, zullen slechts enkele zover komen. Wat maakt een toestel repareerbaar?
Om te beginnen wordt een toestel gewaardeerd op basis van de moeilijkheid van de openingsprocedure. Hoe kun je iets repareren als het niet te openen is? Als we eenmaal binnen zijn, kijken we wat voor schroeven zijn gebruikt. Exclusieve, propriëtaire schroeven of lijm? Bah! Phillips-schroeven? Beter!
Bij het verder onderzoeken van de onderdelen in het toestel worden we blij van dingen als makkelijk te vervangen, modulaire onderdelen; snelle toegang tot onderdelen die vaker vervangen moeten worden; en de mogelijkheid tot upgrades. Om uiteindelijk een perfecte 10 te scoren zal de producent van het toestel ook een gratis toegankelijke reparatiehandleiding beschikbaar moeten stellen.
Welke toestellen verdienen onze goedkeuring? Hieronder vind je de lijst met de repareerbaarheidsscores van tablets. Bekijk ook de smartphone- en laptop-repareerbaarheidsscores, zodat je kunt zien welk toestel we je aanraden.
Just like in previous iPads, the front panel is glued to the rest of the device, greatly increasing the chances of cracking the glass during a repair.
Gobs of adhesive hold everything in place. As with its Air 1 predecessor, this ranks among the most difficult battery removal procedures we've seen in an iPad.
The LCD has foam sticky tape adhering it to the front panel, increasing chances of it being shattered during disassembly.
2
Just like in previous iPads, the front panel is glued to the rest of the device, greatly increasing the chances of cracking the glass during a repair.
Gobs of adhesive hold everything in place. As with its Air 1 predecessor, this ranks among the most difficult battery removal procedures we've seen in an iPad.
The LCD has foam sticky tape adhering it to the front panel, increasing chances of it being shattered during disassembly.
Copious amounts of adhesive hold many components in place—front glass, battery, front camera, back camera, ribbon cables—making repair extremely difficult.
The Lightning connector is soldered to the logic board, so don't bend its pins.
Removing the home button is now a much more difficult job. If you want to keep Touch ID functionality after a screen replacement, you'll have to transfer the home button to the new front panel.
2
Copious amounts of adhesive hold many components in place—front glass, battery, front camera, back camera, ribbon cables—making repair extremely difficult.
The Lightning connector is soldered to the logic board, so don't bend its pins.
Removing the home button is now a much more difficult job. If you want to keep Touch ID functionality after a screen replacement, you'll have to transfer the home button to the new front panel.
The rear case is very easy to open, granting trouble-free access to the internals.
All the fasteners found inside are T5 Torx screws—one non-proprietary screwdriver is all you need.
The glass panel is fused to the front plastic frame, meaning a heat gun is required for replacing cracked glass (or you have to replace both components together).
6
The rear case is very easy to open, granting trouble-free access to the internals.
All the fasteners found inside are T5 Torx screws—one non-proprietary screwdriver is all you need.
The glass panel is fused to the front plastic frame, meaning a heat gun is required for replacing cracked glass (or you have to replace both components together).
Copious amounts of adhesive hold many components in place—front glass, battery, front camera, back camera, ribbon cables—making repair extremely difficult.
The Lightning connector is soldered to the logic board, so don't bend its pins.
Hidden screws mean you'll need to be very diligent when trying to remove internal components.
2
Copious amounts of adhesive hold many components in place—front glass, battery, front camera, back camera, ribbon cables—making repair extremely difficult.
The Lightning connector is soldered to the logic board, so don't bend its pins.
Hidden screws mean you'll need to be very diligent when trying to remove internal components.
The display assembly consists of a fused glass panel and LCD, and is extremely difficult to remove and replace.
Tons of adhesive hold everything in place, including the display and battery.
The delicate and arduous opening procedure leaves no room for mistakes: one slip-up, and you'll likely shear one of the four ribbon cables in the edge of the display.
1
The display assembly consists of a fused glass panel and LCD, and is extremely difficult to remove and replace.
Tons of adhesive hold everything in place, including the display and battery.
The delicate and arduous opening procedure leaves no room for mistakes: one slip-up, and you'll likely shear one of the four ribbon cables in the edge of the display.
Copious amounts of adhesive hold many components in place -- front glass, logic board, battery, front camera, back camera, ribbon cables -- making repair extremely difficult.
The Lightning connector is soldered to the logic board, so don't bend its pins.
Hidden screws mean you'll need to be very diligent when trying to remove internal components.
2
Copious amounts of adhesive hold many components in place -- front glass, logic board, battery, front camera, back camera, ribbon cables -- making repair extremely difficult.
The Lightning connector is soldered to the logic board, so don't bend its pins.
Hidden screws mean you'll need to be very diligent when trying to remove internal components.
Just like in the iPad 2 & 3, the front panel is glued to the rest of the device, greatly increasing the chances of cracking the glass when trying to remove it.
Gobs, gobs, and gobs of adhesive hold everything in place, including the prone-to-start-a-fire-if-punctured battery.
The LCD has foam sticky tape adhering it to the front panel, increasing chances of it being shattered during disassembly.
2
Just like in the iPad 2 & 3, the front panel is glued to the rest of the device, greatly increasing the chances of cracking the glass when trying to remove it.
Gobs, gobs, and gobs of adhesive hold everything in place, including the prone-to-start-a-fire-if-punctured battery.
The LCD has foam sticky tape adhering it to the front panel, increasing chances of it being shattered during disassembly.
The opening procedure was very simple, and aside from the massive amounts of adhesive, every part came free rather easily.
There were a total of only 12 screws (all T5 Torx), 11 of which were the same length.
The front glass, GlowLight LEDs, and digitizer are fused together, so breaking any of these parts will require replacement of the entire display assembly.
7
The opening procedure was very simple, and aside from the massive amounts of adhesive, every part came free rather easily.
There were a total of only 12 screws (all T5 Torx), 11 of which were the same length.
The front glass, GlowLight LEDs, and digitizer are fused together, so breaking any of these parts will require replacement of the entire display assembly.
Just like the iPad 2, the front panel is glued to the rest of the device, greatly increasing the chances of cracking the glass when trying to remove it.
Gobs, gobs, and gobs of adhesive hold down everything in place, including the prone-to-start-a-fire-if-punctured battery.
The LCD has foam sticky tape adhering it to the front panel, increasing chances of the front panel being shattered during disassembly
2
Just like the iPad 2, the front panel is glued to the rest of the device, greatly increasing the chances of cracking the glass when trying to remove it.
Gobs, gobs, and gobs of adhesive hold down everything in place, including the prone-to-start-a-fire-if-punctured battery.
The LCD has foam sticky tape adhering it to the front panel, increasing chances of the front panel being shattered during disassembly
The rear case is very easy to open, granting trouble-free access to the internals.
All the fasteners found inside are Phillips #0 screws—one non-proprietary screwdriver is all you need.
The glass panel is fused to the front plastic frame, meaning a heat gun is required for replacing cracked glass (or you have to replace both components together).
8
The rear case is very easy to open, granting trouble-free access to the internals.
All the fasteners found inside are Phillips #0 screws—one non-proprietary screwdriver is all you need.
The glass panel is fused to the front plastic frame, meaning a heat gun is required for replacing cracked glass (or you have to replace both components together).
