Josh White

When you refurbish apple LCDs, what kind of glue do you use to re-apply the plastic frame around the glass? I've been...

Why? Why flood the answers section with threads from a year ago that the asker is probably never going to look at again?...

Hello ifixit, I have an iPhone 5c that is getting incredibly hot on the U7 chip as soon as the battery is hooked up. About...

Hello ifixit, I come with a question about sim reader replacements on iPhones. I just started trying to replace these, so...

Hello again ifixit, Trying to begin repairing some water damaged/ no power phones here. iPhone 5/5c/5s. Can anyone point...

Hello again ifixit. Im just learning how to do BGA work and micro soldering and such. I had a quick question of replacing...

Hello ifixit, Today I have an iPhone 5 that I can not get to vibrate for the life of me. I received the phone with the...

Hello ifixit! Ive been plagued forever by iTunes error #1 and have decided its time to learn how to fix it, or at least...

As far as I know, the phone will NOT boot without the U2 IC properly seated since it is part of the power management system. What is your issue with getting the chip on?

I'm not sure if this answers all of your question, but I do know about the flicker issue. It's only happened to me a few times on a glass repair, but it frequently happens after I fully disassemble a phone, motherboard and all. Still don't know what causes it, but I do not how to fix it. All you need to do is a image burn the LCD a little, to do this, turn the brightness all the way down and set the phone to never lock. Put it on a charger and let it sit there with the screen on for anywhere from 30min-4hrs or so. When you turn the birhgtness back up at the end, the flicker should be gone. Some of them are a bit stubborn and you will have the increase the brightness is small amounts at regular intervals. Regardless, this method works 100% of the time for me. Let me know if it works for you

Hi Mike, I struggled with iPads for a long time. Here's what I suggest. After removing your digitizer, use a metal sanding material(think scotch-brite) soaked in 99% isopropyl and scrub the frame surface until it's completely smooth. Then, I use a very high quality tape to apply it, I will link it below. Better adhesive is really the answer. I also find I get better results when I apply the adhesive to the frame first. After laying down your digitizer, use some plastic clamps and clamp the 4 corners as well as one in the middle on the top and side. Two clamps will go on either side of the home button. Once it's under pressure, heat the screen and allow it to rest and cool for about 10 minutes. I haven't had a single issue after using this method. Also make sure you're getting your digitizer cables folded right. Hope this helps! http://www.amazon.com/Tesa-4970-Tackified-Acrylic-Adhesion/dp/B00DZXYUCI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF...-2&keywords=tesa+double+sided+tape

Hey Milla, The digitizer is part of the LCD in an s4. Samsung has both the touch and display features combined in the Super AMOLED. If touch is malfunctioning or there are problems with the display image, you must replace the LCD. If it is simply cracked but still functions perfectly, you can do just glass

No, parts from the iPhone 4 are not compatible with the 5. Start by using a sewing needle and some air duster to clean on the small holes on the bottom side of the phone near the audio jack. If this does not affect operation, I would open the phone, and check to make sure the dock flex connector is seated properly. This connection is located to the bottom right of the battery. If it is seated and the microphone still doesn't work, then you will most likely need to replace the dock flex. This flex cable contains the microphone. It's a very simple repair, just keep track of screws and be sure the move the microphone cover and the ground strap on the audio jack over to the new flex. Hope this helps! iPhone 5 Lightning Connector and Headphone Jack Replacement iPhone 5 Lightning Connector and Headphone Jack

From what I can tell, it should be repairable, as long as the traces in the board are still OK. In these situations, I generally use some copper wire from a backlight coil and make a jumper from the exposed trace to the connector.

They are literally all over ebay. Try google in the future

I think I've heard people say generally not to go above 180F for any screen. But I think that's even a bit high. When I use my heat plate to separate LCD's, it's set to 60C(140F). Personally, for using a heat gun I go by touch to see if it's hot enough. I know it's not exact, but for me, if I can keep my finger on the screen for about 3 seconds before it burns, then I know it's perfect. I've been using that method for a couple years now, and on hundreds of screens. I would say just don't break 160-170F and you should be just fine.

Generally when there is a logic board issue with the backlight, it seems to affect the whole thing. I've never seen a blown backlight filter or anything like cause only half the backlight to work. Assuming everything is connected properly, I would say that LCD is most likely defective. Try a new one

Hi pinkcat1972, I would start by taking a sewing needle and some air duster and try cleaning out the set of 10 small holes next to the audio jack. If this doesn't work. I would recommend opening the phone and checking to see if the dock flex connector is properly seated. It is located towards the bottom right side of the battery, above the battery connector. Use an iPhone 5s disassembly guide here on ifixit. No need to disconnect the LCD or anything. If you find it is connected and is still not working, you are most likely gonna need a dock flex cable. It's a very simple installation. I'll link the part you need and the guide for it. iPhone 5s Lightning Connector and Headphone Jack iPhone 5s Lightning Connector Replacement