So I will throw an answer here in case someone comes across this with a similar issue. I should've wrote this when it was still fresh in my mind. However, the memory controller chip is on the back side of the logic board. YAY! You have to completely disassemble the Powermac and remove the logic board. I think there was either a separate fan for the memory controller, or one of the main case fans had a vent that went to the back. The heatsink is held on by black plastic push pins that will break very easily. I don''t remember if I had modified new pushpins from Amazon, or if I had gone the nylon bolt route. If you get the push pins off of Amazon or a similar place, you have to use a razor to trim the wings to a similar size that Apple has in there and it should work. Good luck!

With it hitting a hard surface, it sounds like the ribbon cable for the LCD may have come loose. If the LCD was broken, you’d probably see lines across it or black patches. The storage seems to be working and so the iPod itself is good. If you’ve already completed a hard reset with iTunes, try this before possibly opening it up: “Toggle the Hold switch on and off. (Slide it to Hold, then turn it off again.) 2. Now press and hold the Menu and Select buttons until the Apple logo appears, which may take about 6 to 10 seconds.”

Where did you purchase the kit? I know that some places will have bit labeled a bit off. I was able to find an amazon kit where the consonant stayed their Y0.8 bit is actually the Y000 needed for iPhones. I would see about emailing the company you got it from before shelling out for speciality bits.

There are so many things that this could be. Check to make sure your phone isn’t on vibrate, that you have cell signal, that you’re not in “do not disturb” mode. Finally, check your headphone port and make sure there’s nothing lodged in there that would make the phone think you have headphones plugged in.

You can test if the cable has gone bad by using another Thunderbolt cable. Plug it going out of the iMac and into the Thunderbolt port on the back of the display.

Have you tried other lighting cables first, just to check if it’s getting a charge at all? The battery will naturally drain, albeit very slowly. Regarding changing the battery. Yes, not having a full charge is best, but you don’t have to have it fully drained when replacing it. Follow the steps and take your time. As long as you SLOWLY work the adhesive from under the battery, the battery comes right out with absolutely no force. What I used to do is get a pair of needle nose tweezers and pinch the black tab at the end of the adhesive. Then pull a little of it from under the batter and twirl the tweezers. I’ll grip on a little better and give you more of a handle to work with.

I’m not sure which update you did, but there was an issue that came up for iPhone 7 and 7 plus with the 11.3 update causing a similar situation. If you never had that problem before, I’d check with Apple is they would repair or fix it for free. https://9to5mac.com/2018/05/04/iphone-7-mic-failure-ios-11-3/

You might have turned on a setting that is zooming in on the screen. I pulled this from a Mitsubishi site that might have directions needed to fix this: Turn on your Mitsubishi rear-projection TV. Press the "Input" button on the remote control to select a particular video source, such as the cable/satellite set-top receiver box/DVR or DVD player. Press the "Format" button on either the remote control or the front panel of the unit to adjust the picture size. Choices include "Standard", "Stretch", "Expand", and (with CRT models) "HD expand." Keep pressing until you find the optimal picture setting for that source. The last setting you choose will be saved and the picture will be displayed in that manner the next time you view that source. Repeat the process when viewing a different source input, if necessary. Different sources, channels and programs may call for a different setting, depending on the resolution (HD or SD) and aspect ratio of that source or program.

There could be several different things going on here. To answer if it’s normal. I can be depending on work load. I’ve had some hot MacBook Pros from earlier years that I’ve seen get into the 90+C range and still operate. Although at that level you should hear the fans kicking in at a decent volume. If you just installed Catalina as an upgrade, it might be rebuilding the Spotlight index which would use up system resources. You could check the CPU usage by going into Launchpad -> Utilities -> Activity Monitor. Under the CPU tab you can sort by CPU % and see what’s using up the most resources. If it’s an app that you can close, check to see if that lowers the temp any. What did the place you purchased it from do to “refurbish” it? If they didn’t open up the MacBook Pro and clean out the fan and vents, it could cause it to run hot as well. Using compressed air to move dust out of there would help greatly. You’re English is great, and I hope that this helps.

I’m not sure what model you have, but there are magnets located in the display panel that interact with sensors located under the top case. If there was water damage, it’s possible that it shorted out the sensor and it’s not reacting to the magnet. If you run a paper clip along the side of the screen, you’ll find the magnet. Then closing the lid will show you where the sensor is. If it’s near where the water damage occurred, then the sensor probably needs replaced.